from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

This is a post about making choices and decisions, which as a Libra, I often find incredibly difficult. Peter Clemenza, on the other hand, didn’t seem to have the same sort of hang ups. He knew what he didn’t want (the gun) and what he did (the cannoli) and was confident in his declaration. I wish I could have such a straight-forward mindset.

Being a steadfast devotee to men’s style can sometimes be a double-edged sword. On the one hand, you want to cultivate a personal style and aesthetic that is uniquely you, but on the other you might not want to pigeonhole yourself – leave the options open if something outside your “normal” strikes your fancy.

I don’t think it’s all that uncommon to want to break out of a personal comfort zone. Comfort zones, after all, can very easily be equated to ruts. And who wants to be boring?

I found myself in a situation like this back in November when we were in Milan. Because what does a style-conscious guy do when he’s in Milan? He goes to Al Bazar, of course. And he goes there with a purpose – to acquire something (in this case a blazer) you can only get in a small Milanese boutique and that he knows to be of high quality and that fits perfectly.

| WEARING | Daniele Alessandrini coat, Al Bazar blazer and shirt, Vintage Yves Saint Laurent pants, Suitsupply tie, Reiss leather document holder, Tateossian and L. Jonas bracelets, To Boot New York shoes | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

But the question is: which direction should you go? Let me take you through two options that were on my mind during this particular visit.

Option 1: Choose something unique; something I haven’t/won’t see anywhere else. Logical. Why would I get navy blazer at a place like Al Bazar?

Option 2: But wait a minute… Maybe I should pick something in my comfort zone. After all, I know the fit is great and the fabrics are amazing.

I narrowed it down to two double-breasted choices – a dark moss green or a “Brian” brown. Obviously, looking at the photos in this post, you know which one I ended up with, but that wasn’t before buying and then returning the dark green version.

Yes, the dark green blazer was a little more unique, but it was also trendy. (Where did that green trend go last fall, anyhow?) The brown was more “me” and even though it was a comfort zone purchase, it’s one that I’ll be wearing for a long time and can use in a variety of situations. Score one for versatility.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Leave the Gun, Take the Cannoli first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

The smoking jacket fills a very particular niche in the menswear world. While it closely resembles a blazer, it really can’t be worn like one. In one way, it’s far too formal, usually made of luxe and plush fabrics like velvet or silk and adorned with tuxedo-like shawl lapels.

In another way, it’s far too casual, resembling a robe in many iterations, with a belted closure, and definitely evoking relaxation and comfort rather than business or business-casual, for that matter.

| BRIAN WEARS | QG Custom smoking jacket, Al Bazar shirt and tie, Watch c/o Uniform Wares | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo | LOCATION | The QG, Baltimore, MD

Like so many garments, the smoking jacket is truly the result of the intersection of fashion and necessity. Along with the 17th century spice trade, luxurious fabrics (such as silk) traveled from the far east to the western world, and quickly became emblems of class.

At the same time, traders brought tobacco from the middle east, with the influx of Turkish tobacco into England reaching a high during the Crimean War of the 1850s. Thus, the (usually silk) smoking jacket emerged in order to protect one’s attire from the smell of smoke and the stains and damage of ash and embers.

Also, remember that this was the Edwardian era, when situational rules for attire were still followed very strictly – think morning coats and dinner jackets, country attire versus city, and so on. The smoking jacket became the uniform de rigueur for gentlemen indulging in a puff or two.

These days, the smoking jacket has emerged from the cigarette parlors to find it’s own place, largely among the fashionably bold black-tie-event attendees looking to break away from the monotony of black and navy tuxedos – much thanks to celebs like Hugh Hefner and his trademark party attire.

It takes a bold man to rock a smoking jacket, but it’s all in finding the right style and the right moment. Navy or black are classic. Rich red pieces make for a killer holiday or New Year’s getup, while something in ivory or pastel fits a summery ‘Gatsby-esque’ with equal aplomb. It’s a balancing act for sure, but if pulled off properly it’s a look that can own a room!

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

The post Style Defined: The Smoking Jacket first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

You aren’t trying to work your iPad into your wardrobe in a stylistically cohesive way. Can the Apple Watch be an exception?

Brian Sacawa: Now that we’ve pretty much boxed up 2015 and put it away, I’ve been thinking a bit about some of the trends that a ton of people were talking about as the next big thing, but that never really materialized. The first one that comes to mind is olive green for Fall 15. Where was that?! But perhaps the biggest disappointment in terms of hype not delivered upon was wearable tech.

Obviously, there are lots of wearable devices out there now – including stylish fitness trackers that look like honest-to-goodness watches – but for our purposes here, I want to focus on the Apple Watch.

If we look at history, then there’s no reason not to think that the Apple Watch would have been anything but a runaway success – it’s not an overstatement to say that Apple designs things that change the world. And while I definitely see people wearing them, I don’t get the sense that it was as big a hit as everyone anticipated. And I’m wondering why.

I mean, is the Apple Watch just not cool? Is it a wearable tech issue? Thoughts? Let’s flesh this out.

Rob McIver: Ok. So, as a serial early adopter, unabashed Apple fanboy and owner of an Apple Watch, I can’t really say they nailed the cool factor and it most certainly hasn’t changed my life. It has just kind of quietly become a part of it. I think that there is potential for this device and ones like it to become very compelling as they mature, but in their infancy, they are just a bit ho-hum.

Brian: What do you mean when you say you don’t think they nailed the cool factor? I mean, for me, it’s got some sense of style but that style is geek chic. And I guess that’s my biggest thing – I’m not sure geek chic will ever be the ‘it’ style in a big way. Like, it’s cool and novel and all, but eventually that’s going to wear off, right?

Rob: I guess I feel that even though it looks decent enough, it is still skewed further to the side of function – albeit limited function – rather than fashion. I don’t think mass-appeal cool/acceptance can be achieved until the function is amazing and tech has advanced to allow that function to just happen in an aesthetically pleasing form.

Adam Lehman: I think another struggle here for Apple was just in the choice of a watch itself, in that it has such big shoes to fill. By that, I mean it’s going to be really hard to push out Rolex or Omega when it comes to what people – especially those with a eye towards style – seek in a watch.

Even the newer brands that have edged into the field in a big way – think Daniel Wellington or Shinola’s watch lines – aren’t straying far from that classic style. And I think they’re so appealing because they are reminiscent of classic styles.

Robin West: Geek chic is great for Apple’s niche audience, but Apple is not a niche brand. Personally, I like an old school watch because, well, it tells time, but also it’s another accessory – a fashion piece. The watch you pick can really complement, elevate an outfit or be used as a form of expression. The Apple Watch almost feels too mass market rather than an individual piece.

Brian: What do you think it would need to happen to take a geek chic niche product to permanent fashion? Is that even possible?

Adam: I’m struggling to remember the brand, but I do recall some watchmaker making a smart watch that was just basically housed inside a classic body. I think the display was nothing new at all, but it would communicate with your computer in the same way a FitBit does. So less innovative functionality, more classic style. Maybe if a huge name like Apple tried that approach, it could have more of an impact for in the style world.

Robin: I think what Huawei is doing with their smart watch is a positive step for people who want to customize it a bit more. It looks like a normal watch so it acts as a fashion accessory, but it has the technology for when you want to use it as a smart watch – a nice balance for a larger audience.

Rob: I feel like the tech will have to become malleable enough to allow fashion designers to work with it as a medium.

Brian: Do you think it’s going to take Apple getting out of the in-house design mindset to achieve that? It seems like that might be a direction they go. I mean, they kind of started to almost dip a toe in the water with Hermès.

But even that seems more like a token nod to style/fashion – only the watch band is actually crafted by Hermès, while the watch body itself is still the same boxy shape it has been, but with a Hermès watch face interpreted digitally.

Adam: I do think that’s what would help. As iconic and appealing as Apple’s aesthetic is, it will always hold some level of geekiness that people might not want to wear and display as part of their day-to-day style. The phones look cool as hell, but you keep it in your pocket. You aren’t trying to work your iPad into your wardrobe in a stylistically cohesive way.

Brian: Really excellent point.

Adam: Right? A guy whose look is classic prep is going to feel out of place with a futuristic watch on his arm. Like Robin said, the style is great for a niche audience, but is going to feel too out-of-place for much of the mainstream. I would love to see Apple, with their technological innovation, work with a heritage brand to create a blend of the two.

Robin: Right now, the Apple Watch is just another product like Google Glass. The end goal of what these two products want to do is interesting, but the technology and design aren’t there yet.

It took movie studios how long to create a really good 3D movie? They knew how to do it, but it’s not an easy flip of the switch. So the Apple Watch and Google Glass, in their current form, are there now to give you something to play with until the kinks are worked out. Which is obviously not really want consumers want.

Brian: Totally. I remember when Mr Porter pushed Google Glass hard about a year and a half ago. Even suggesting, via a cameo by Scott Schuman, that they were stylish enough to catch his attention. Obviously, you don’t see it on the site anymore.

You know, looking at the rendering in the video of what the wearer actually sees… that’s pretty freaking cool. Reminds me a lot of the Head-Up Display we experienced in the BMW 7 Series. The difference is that one is housed in a BMW and the other a pair of glasses that look vaguely cyborg-ish. Pretty big difference.

Okay, so I think we’ve collectively agreed that the Apple Watch is kind of cool, but not necessarily stylish right now. Readers, do you agree? Keep the conversation going by chiming in in the comments.

Photo via Mashable

The post HSS Round Table: Is the Apple Watch Cool? first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

It’s no secret that I’m a big fan of the turtleneck sweater. A quick search through the Style Guide’s ‘Sweater’ filter reveals countless styling options. Though it’s often been cast as dated, the turtleneck has enjoyed renewed mainstream popularity recently.

If you think of a turtleneck as a one-dimensional item – i.e. just another sweater – think again. A thin merino wool turtleneck can also be worn under a dress shirt and blazer. Here’s one way to do it.

| WEARING | Suitsupply blazer, Uniqlo turtleneck, Brooks Brothers pants and Black Fleece shirt, Watch c/o Uniform Wares, Tod’s shoes | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Now that winter’s here – we’re not even going to get above freezing today – layering is the name of the game. Layering a thin turtleneck under a dress shirt and blazer is a way to add some extra warmth.

One of my favorite things about turtleneck sweaters is that they serve a similar function as a scarf, which is to keep the draft out. Wearing one under a dress shirt also sets you up to create some extra layered interest via your shirt, of course, but also by adding a scarf to the mix.

On the other side of the coin, if it’s not too terribly cold out, the turtleneck can completely negate the need for a scarf.

I also like how the thin turtleneck as undershirt takes the place of a tie as a way to elevate a business look. It lends a whole different kind of class and sophistication to it.

One thing to be mindful of, if you plan on trying out this look, is the temperature of your office or wherever you’re planning to sport the look. If, like me, you tend to run hot and you know the office is going to be cranking the heat, this might not be the best option.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Over/Under: Advanced Turtleneck Layering first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Time to wrap up 2015 and put a bow on it – then hide it under the bed – with our annual trends we hope die post.

If you remember last year’s edition, you’ll remember that I blamed the burgeoning menswear social media landscape for being responsible for the proliferation of, in my view, some of the most offensive trends.

But since we already covered some of the worst Instagram trends of 2015, and since our third anniversary is coming up and I plan to address the state of menswear online in that post, let’s get right to it, sans long editorial setup, with this year’s list of trends we hope die.

The Hard Part

It’s never happened to me, but I’ve heard stories of guys going to get the haircut that I have and having the part shaved in without even being consulted. Putting aside for a moment how terrible a barber must be to not even ask a preference on something like that, can we talk about why this is a bad idea?

I first heard about the hard part a couple years ago and thought that it only seemed like a good idea for the barber, since it would ensure you’d have to come back sooner than usual to get it cleaned up and looking like an actual part.

Since then, I’ve seen it creeping into the mainstream and, beyond the maintenance issues, I think it looks terrible. Cartoonish, fabricated and too perfect. Three things you never want your personal style to be. Unless you’re a Ken Doll.

The Man Bun

It’s interesting that two grooming-related trends top our list this year. What can I say about the man bun, other than that I hope when its adopters look back at photos of themselves that they’re able to laugh instead of just cringe.

The fact that the man bun has inspired the creation of a clip-on version is proof that the grooming gods have played a big joke on guys this past year. Need another reason to not have one (or to lop it off)? Well, it might make you go bald sooner.

#SquadGoals

Not to be confused with Staged Squad Photos. There’s nothing wrong with wanting to have friends. Who doesn’t? But I hate what #squadgoals represents and implies.

First, using that hashtag intimates that you need to have people around you all the time to be validated and to feel good about yourself. But I guess that’s what attention-starved, self-absorbed narcissists need.

Second, it implies that your current group of friends isn’t good enough. I’ll leave it at that.

Athleisure

How happy was I to hear Guy Trebay characterize athleisure as a “slob trend” in his recent piece for The New York Times? Obviously, when any long-held opinion you’ve had is trumpeted in a publication that carries a great deal of weight and influence, it give you a certain sense of satisfaction and validation. Please, let’s retire “dressy” sweatpants – what an oxymoron – and dress like we want to be taken seriously.

Oversized Coats

The oversized coat trend is one that started to gain steam towards the end of 2015, and unfortunately, if the the collections for the most recent men’s shows are to be interpreted as harbingers of trends-to-come, it’s not going anywhere.

Unlike the man bun, which comes with limited regret – you can just cut if off, though those photos of you sporting it will continue to exist – an oversized coat will come with significant financial regret.

I’m not getting completely down on the idea of changing up silhouettes every now and then, but if you’re going to invest in a coat, why not get one custom made that fits you and will never go out of style instead of blowing that money on something you won’t wear next fall?

Anything to add to the list (or argue with me about)?

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Trends that Need to Die in 2016 first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Turtleneck sweaters have long been a staple of men’s (and women’s) attire, but their place in fashion has changed pretty dramatically over the years.

In their earliest forms, they were worn by knights, who used the high necks to prevent rashes and chafing from their chainmail and helmets. Later, they were worn mostly by laborers, athletes and seamen, likely because of the convenience of built-in scarf-like protection, and still for a largely utilitarian purpose – function over fashion.

However, as modern fashion styles began to develop, the turtleneck took a unique position at the center of the counter-formalwear movement, or the ‘anti-tie’ look.

In the early 1900s, it was iconically worn by celebrities, artists, progressive politicians and other counter-culture or rebellious figures who rejected traditional formal attire. French philosopher Michel Foucault made it his signature look, while European film stars brought the look the rich and elite.

| BRIAN WEARS | Montezemolo coat, Uniqlo turtleneck, PT01 pants, Mario Portolano gloves, Suitsupply shoes | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

In the 1960s, designers like Yves Saint Laurent ushered the turtleneck into business attire, to be worn in place of a dress shirt under your classic grey and navy suits, and the look was picked up by powerful men like Senator Ted Kennedy. All the while, turtlenecks kept one foot squarely in the ‘cool kid’ echelons as they were rocked by pop icons from the Elvis or Beatles to Steve McQueen and Robert Redford.

Then, as fashion trends often do, the turtleneck movement saw the ebb to follow its flow, and spent the 90s and 00s as the butt of many a fashion joke as fits became loose and shapeless and the image went from suave businessman or creative rebel to dorky dad or stodgy professor (or an awkward teen trying to cover an embarrassing hickey). Still, even through the slump, some of the suavest men kept turtlenecks looking good.

And now turtlenecks are back, and there’s lots to love. A dark merino wool, cut in a slim, flattering fit frames the face almost like a sculptural bust and draws attention away from the torso (there’s a reason style-savvy cartoon ‘Archer’ is so fanatical about the ‘tactileneck’). On the other hand, a chunky, cream-colored cable knit exudes rugged sailor and is a perfect look for a cool night at a beachside bonfire or for sipping hot chocolate on a snowy cabin escape.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

The post Style Defined: The Turtleneck first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Winter is one of my favorite times of the year for style. Think layering, rich fabrics, awesome coats, turtlenecks. But putting effort into one’s style doesn’t mean a thing if you’re not taking care of your most important asset: your face.

Clothing is meant to frame your face and while no clothing does that better than winter clothing, winter itself – in all its dryness – can do a number on your face. That’s why it’s important to incorporate a good moisturizer into your daily grooming routine.

Click through the slideshow above for some of the best face moisturizers for winter.

Got a favorite face moisturizer? Chime in below!

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Stay Hydrated: The Best Winter Face Moisturizers first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

When the day’s high temperature is below freezing, you know that it’s officially winter. And to look good in the cold, you need to have a strong coat game. Here are nine winter coat styles that are guaranteed to keep you warm and looking fresh.

1. Wool Field Jacket

Every guy should have a well-made, sturdy and hearty wool field jacket. It’s a handsome casual coat option and usually the first one I grab if I’m running out of the apartment in jeans, though it can also work for a casual coffee date or a dressed-down office look. Make sure it fits somewhat snugly for maximum insulation.

2. Quilted Topcoat

Quilting is a great way to add some visual interest via texture to complete a look. Remember that quilted coats don’t need to be overstuffed or puffy. If you have a thin quilted topcoat, you can actually layer it under another coat.

3. Duffle Coat

A classic preppy option that pairs best with winter-weight fabrics like tweed. These are heavy coats that will keep you warm.

4. Double-Breasted Topcoat

This is your serious business option when you need to make a strong impression. Button it up, pop the collar and get shit done.

5. Peacoat

Peacoats come in more colors than just the classic navy version. A grey peacoat stands out and looks a bit more dressed up and less nautical than its navy cousin.

6. Statement Plaid Topcoat

A statement coat needn’t be wild and over the top. For the classically style-minded, a subtle plaid with a single bold accent color can be more than enough.

7. Subdued Plaid Topcoat

You can’t wear a statement plaid topcoat every day, but you can wear a subdued plaid version on the daily. As always, navy goes with everything so it’s incredibly easy to style. I’ve been putting this one through its paces this season.

8. Arctic Parka

This is the coat you don’t wear that often but are eternally thankful you shelled out the cash for when you really need it. Like yesterday when it was 17-degrees and I could walk outside like it was nothing.

9. Puffer Jacket

A puffer jacket is a good option if you’re looking for something more casual than an overcoat. Additionally, its cropped cut allows for greater mobility than you’ll find with a three-quarters or full-length topcoat.

It may be the dead of winter, but it’s a great time to buy a coat. Many of our favorite retailers having amazing sales on winter items right now. Check out Mr. Porter, J.Crew, Nordstrom and Luisaviaroma to look for a steal or two.

Thanks, as always, for reading. And stay warm out there!

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo.

The post Bundle Up: Winter Coat Styles first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Let’s start by answering a basic question: what is a chronograph watch? A chronograph watch is simply a timepiece that can be used as a stopwatch in addition to its standard display watch capabilities.

A chronograph watch will have dials that keep track of seconds, minutes and hours. We’ll use our Raymond Weil Freelancer Piper watch as an example here.

The Chronograph

| DIALED IN | Chrono minutes dial at 12 o’clock, chrono hours dial at 6 o’clock and sub-seconds dial at 9 o’clock. | ON THE WRIST | Raymond Weil Freelancer Piper

There’s really no mystery here. Use the chronograph to time a wide variety of things – from coffee brew time to how to long it takes to get to work to the length of a phone call to a 100-yard dash.

Start the chronograph by pressing the button at 2 o’clock. Stop the chronograph by pushing that button again. Reset the chronograph by pushing the button at 4 o’clock.

A chronograph watch typically has three dials to register the time elapsed – a second dial (also referred to as a sub-second dial), a minute dial and an hour dial. Positions can vary based on the watch manufacturer. On ours, the second dial is at 9 o’clock, the minute dial is at 12 o’clock and the hour dial is at 6 o’clock.

| WEARING | Montezemolo coat, Reiss blazer, Al Bazar shirt, Drake’s tie, Paul Stuart gloves, Raymond Weil chronograph watch | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

The Tachymeter

Most, if not all, chronograph watches will have a tachymeter on the bezel. A tachymeter can be used to compute a speed based on travel time or measure distance based on speed.

Using the Tachymeter to Measure Speed

Here’s the formula: T = 3600/t. T represents the numbers on the tachymeter’s scale, t is the time in seconds measured by the watches chronograph function for the event to happen and 3600 is the number of seconds in an hour.

If it takes you 30 seconds to travel one mile (or kilometer) the corresponding number on the tachymeter is 120. That means you’re traveling 120 miles (or kilometers) per hour.

You can also use the tachymeter to tell how much work can be completed in an hour. Let’s say you’re wrapping presents and they’re all the same size and it takes you 40 seconds to wrap one present. 40 seconds corresponds to 90 on the tachymeter. So, in theory, you could wrap 90 presents per hour.

Using the Tachymeter to Measure Distance

In order to use the tachymeter to measure distance, you have to know what speed you are traveling. Start at zero seconds and stop once the tachymeter reads your traveling speed. So if you’re traveling 60 mph, once the tachymeter reads 60, you know that you’ve traveled one mile.

For speeds slower than 60 – say 45 mph – multiply the speed by two and then divide by the same factor once you’ve reached the multiplied speed to get your distance.

Sounds complicated, but once you get it, it’s simple.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post How To Use a Chronograph Watch first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

As you know, when you invest in a new suit, one of the most important things to consider is versatility. Being able to wear each piece as a separate greatly increases a suit’s value to you, ensuring you get the most out of your hard-earned cash.

I recently picked up my newest made-to-measure suit – a three-piece in a beautiful brown wool houndstooth fabric. And over the next few weeks, we’ll be showing you multiple ways to wear it.

First up: jacket separate.

As much as I love wearing a two- or three-piece suit, being able to break it up and wear the jacket alone is what I often look for when considering what to invest in. And since I love combining well-tailored items with casual and/or approachable touches, fabric and pattern are very important.

| WEARING | QG Custom blazer, Michael Andrews Bespoke shirt, PT01 pants, Brooks Brothers tie, Drake’s pocket square, Tateossian, Cantini MC Firenze and vintage bracelets, Watch c/o Uniform Wares, Suitsupply shoes | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

When you’re looking at fabric swatches for a new suit, it can be hard to envision what the full suit will look like – especially when you’re talking about a pattern. Other than choosing a lining, this is often the most difficult part for me, as well.

DONT MISS: Our guide to the history of houndstooth.

Houndstooth can seem like a little “too much” for a suit, but at a small scale it almost looks solid from a distance. However, upon closer inspection it shows that the wearer is sartorially-minded.

A wool houndstooth blazer is a great garment for straddling that dressed up/business casual line. And in brown tones, you can be sure that it will fit with most anything in your closet, provided your closet’s stocked with great basics.

Pair with grey trousers, a well-tailored shirt, classic repp tie and finish it off with a little flair via a devil-may-care pocket square fold and a pair of suede double monks for a simple, but stylish, office/business casual look.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Business Casual: The Houndstooth Blazer first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

If you happen to live north of Washington, DC on the east coast, you’re experiencing a blizzard right now and stuck inside. Instead of being grumpy or bored, look at it as an opportunity! Sweet, a blizzard! Here are some things we here at HSS recommend doing during a blizzard.

Sleep In

Because you’re not going anywhere! But seriously, if there was ever a time to recharge your sleep-deprived self, this is it. And since I just got a new mattress, sleeping in is exactly what I’ll be doing.

Read Quietly

One thing I’ve noticed (and love) about massive snowstorms is how incredibly quiet the world outside becomes. Other than the occasional snowplow, there are not cars whizzing by, garbage trucks backing up or tractor trailers using their jake brakes to slow down right as they pass your apartment.

And because I’m incapable of reading with any type of noise – not even music – snowstorms are the best time for a book or magazine. I’m currently reading (and recommend): the latest issues of The Rake and Man of the World, and the books Encyclopedia of the Exquisite, The Sartorialist X, Love Style Life, Zero to One and Everything Bad is Good for You.

Make a Cocktail

This could (and should) be done in tandem with both the above and below. For some inspiration, check out some of our cocktail recipes, though allow me to recommend a Perfect Manhattan or Boulevardier.

A favorite warm cocktail of mine is the whiskey skin – so simple it doesn’t need its own blog post. Two ounces of whiskey – it’s best with scotch, Irish whiskey, bourbon, or anything pot-stilled – a lemon peel, hot water and a little sugar.

Put a sugar cube and lemon peel (no pith) into mug and add some hot water. Stir to combine, add 2 oz. of whiskey and top with more hot water. Stir and enjoy. If, somewhere along the line, you acquired a toddy stick, now’s the time to use it.

Binge Watch

Because, again, you’re not going anywhere. Making a Murderer anyone? I watched the series over the holidays and if you haven’t seen it yet, I highly recommend it. If you have seen it, let’s talk about it in the comments!

Organize Your Closet

This is one of those things that is easy to put off because of other needs. Like, I need to go to the grocery store, I need to go to work, I need to get away from my closet because it needs to be organized! Well, not today. Consider the blizzard an intervention between you and your closet – time to confront what you don’t want to. I can tell you, however, that a neatly organized closet does a happy (and stress-free) man make.

Shop Online

Since nobody’s going to any stores today, it’s a great time to surf the web for some great deals. And, hey, wow, it just so happens that many top retailers are having major sales right now. Like up to 80% off at Mr Porter and 60% off at Brooks Brothers (and more off the final Black Fleece collection), Luisaviaroma and, of course, the perpetually on-sale J.Crew.

Look Out the Window

And dream of a warm vacation, like in Tulum. Or just enjoy the beautiful, virgin, snow-covered landscape because in about two days, all that pure white snow is going to be brown and grey and nasty.

You know, people like to complain about the cold and snow, but personally, I love it. It’s not just that I love fall and winter style or that I run hot. I grew up in Upstate New York and I always remember snow during the winter. So there’s a part of me that longs for the snow for the way it reminds me of my childhood. And it’s peaceful and just really, really pretty.

Thanks for reading. And if you’re in the blizzard, stay safe.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo.

The post Snowed In? Here’s Some Stuff To Do first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

As you know, I’m all about versatile tailoring. Thinking about your suits as a collection rather than just individual pieces will ensure you’re able to get the most of them. When you think big-picture in this way, and invest in suits that complement each other, you can combine them in many ways.

Lately, I’ve been putting this idea into practice with my own wardrobe. I call it the mixed three-piece suit. Here’s one example.

| WEARING | J.Crew blazer, QG Custom waistcoat, Brooks Brothers Black Fleece shirt, Vintage Yves Saint Laurent pants, Watch c/o Uniform Wares, Tateossian and Cantini MC Firenze bracelets, Boots c/o Jack Erwin | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

If you love the idea of wearing a three-piece suit but not the formality, the mixed three-piece is a great compromise. A combination of patterns, colors and textures is a playful and less dressy take on the full-on version. Keep it casual by losing the tie and wearing an open button-down collared shirt.

Recognize the pattern and fabric of my waistcoat? It’s part of my newest three-piece suit and as I mentioned last Friday, we’ll be showcasing it a variety of ways over the next couple of weeks. The waistcoat is always my favorite part of any three-piece suit.

Got to have a great pair of chelsea boots. They literally go with anything and are the perfect footwear to anchor a look like this.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post The Mixed Three-Piece Suit first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Turtleneck sweaters are back in a big way – not that we ever thought they were out of style. So if you’re currently on trend and wearing them as much as I am these days, you’re going to stretch out that neck. Is it possible to fix? Absolutely. Here’s a quick and easy solution.

| WEARING | J.Crew blazer, Uniqlo turtleneck, Drake’s pocket square, Watch c/o Uniform Wares | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Have you ever mistakenly washed and dried a wool sweater? If you have, you know that when it comes out of the dryer, it looks like you bought it from the kid’s section. Are the gears turning yet? Yes, use that same concept to resize your stretched out turtleneck neck.

Wet only the neck and put it in the dryer on high heat until it’s completely dry. That should do the trick. Just remember, the wetter the neck, the more it will shrink.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Need some more advice? Check out the Men’s Style Advice section! What’s that, you say? Your question’s not there? Send it in and we’ll get back to you!

The post How To Fix That Loose Turtleneck first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

I get a lot of questions wondering what a typical day is like for me. Well, I can tell you with absolute certainty that there really is no such thing as a typical day.

Every day really is quite different depending on what needs to get done – writing, editing, making photos, brainstorming, planning our editorial calendar – and I’ve become accustomed to, against my nature, adapting my work habits on a daily basis to fit the situation.

So one day last week, I kept a log of what my day was like. Here’s a peek into a day in the life of a style blogger.

6:28 A.M. No alarm and this is the time that I wake up?! While there’s a very, very small temptation to get up and start my day early – I’m usually extremely productive in the mornings – that’s not happening today. Back to bed. Important factoid: I did not look at my phone.

9:12 A.M. Okay, now it’s really time to wake up. And now I’ll take my phone from the nightstand and check the news and do the first email purge of the day. I’ve still got two tunes I listened to last night going through my head – Chick Corea’s Quartet No. 1 from Three Quartets and “As This Moment Slips Away” by The Bad Plus feat. Joshua Redman.

Every morning I’m not traveling starts with NPR. One of my best recent electronic investments was a Bose Soundtouch speaker for upstairs, which completes the system I have in the kitchen and for the TV. It sits on my desk, but I can control it from my phone. Ah, technology.

9:46 A.M. Make my way out of bed and over to my desk. This is the morning check to see if the day’s post auto-published without any problems – sometimes I’ll forget to do one thing or another. I always prepare some social posts then – bitly, Google Plus because I nurture the belief that it still has some effect on search ranking, make a photo for Facebook and draft a witty promo.

I live in a loft and was initially nervous about keeping my workspace upstairs just steps from the bed. The last thing I want to do is to be thinking about my computer – or have easy access to it – while I’m trying to get some shut eye.

But, I have to say that it was a good decision. So far, I haven’t succumbed to the temptation of getting out of bed to type and I’m happy to say that the temptation has never really materialized. What’s been most refreshing has been separating my workspace from my living space downstairs.

10:07 A.M. So now when I’m downstairs, there’s nothing to distract me from my breakfast, coffee and a little bit of reading in this beautiful and comfortable chair.

This is a rare day in that I actually don’t have to run out of the apartment for any reason. So I can take my time and make my own coffee at my own pace.

10:41 A.M. Can the team at The Rake do no wrong (other than that dressy sweatpants editorial in the last issue)? The quality of this publication is second to none.

11:26 A.M. Sit down at my desk to write tomorrow’s post.

12:43 P.M. I can be the worst when it comes to writing. I like to procrastinate, which I heard is good for you, but today’s interruptions have come in the form of being on hold with the bank, taking care of paperwork (hey, it’s tax time) and checking Instagram.

2:12 P.M. Writing finished. If it seems like a long time to write a simple post, it’s because there are aspects of putting a post together that are much more time-intensive than the actual writing. Researching how best to position the post, resizing and naming images and adding links is time consuming. No way around it.

2:34 P.M. Rob and I are doing a studio session tonight so I’ve got to pull some outfits. Also need to prep for two sponsored campaigns we have to shoot tomorrow.

I always have fun in the studio, which kind of surprises me because I hate feeling confined when we’re out shooting. I guess I enjoy the creativity of trying to create something interesting on a blank canvas as opposed to finding a good location for our typical “in the wild” style editorials.

2:37 P.M. Wait, I need to make photo selects from our shoot three days ago. Rob is always good about getting stuff up but sometimes I drag my feet on making selections…

2:50 P.M. Obsessing (a.k.a. procrastinating).

3:15 P.M. Shower and gathering everything I need for the shoot tonight.

5:01 P.M. A couple days ago I dropped my car off at the car dealership. Just got a call that it’s finished and need to go turn in the loaner and pick my vehicle. Rob is cool with me coming about an hour later than originally planned on. I’m thankful he’s low maintenance when it comes to last-minute schedule things like this.

6:50 P.M. Dinner.

7:45 P.M. Arrive at Rob’s and get set up in the studio (i.e. Rob’s attic). We’re shooting for a couple new content series on the site. Eventually, we hope we’ll be able to find a dedicated space to set up shop so we can have everything ready for shooting at a moment’s notice – just haven’t found the right space yet. As it is now, we waste a lot of time building the light kit each time we do studio sessions. It would be awesome to just roll up, have it all ready, dialed in and go!

9:01 P.M. Wrap at Rob’s and make my way home through some light snow.

10:06 P.M. Finally get home and put everything away. I’ve been really good about keeping everything in its place, lately. I have a tendency when we’re deep in shooting mode to let my closet explode all over the place and then to kick the can down the road when it comes to cleaning up.

But, as I’ve noticed, a neat and organized space keeps me very, very stress-free. It’s also why I make a habit of spending the 45 seconds making my bed every morning. After all, it doesn’t take much to pull the duvet up and smooth it out! Time always well spent.

Don my pajamas. Pour some whiskey. Call Robin.

10:32 P.M. Back to my desk to make some photo selections.

11:18 P.M. Send Rob picks. Going downstairs to the chair to read…

11:24 P.M. Dammit! Rob is so fast on the turnaround that I look through the finals for Friday’s post. I can resize tomorrow. The Eames chair awaits…

11:53 P.M. A little reading. Into bed. Lights out.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post A Day in the Life of a Style Blogger first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

I’m often asked how much it costs to get a suit – or other basic menswear items – tailored. The answer? Well, it depends. Alterations and tailoring services vary depending on the tailor, their location and the quality of their services.

However, if one thing is certain, it’s that the cost associated with alterations is always money well spent.

Here is a general price list for common suit jacket/blazer, pants and shirt alterations.

Suit Jacket/Blazer Alterations

Shorten/Lengthen Sleeves: $60

Shorten/Lengthen Sleeves (with functioning button holes): $150

Let Out/Take In Side Seams: $65

Let Out/Take In Back Seam: $55

Shorten Jacket: $75

Reduce Shoulders: $160

Reline Jacket: $200

Replace Pocket Linings: $25

Replace/Tighten Button: $2-5

COMING SOON: A Guide to Suit Jacket Alterations.

Suit Pants Alterations

Hem: $10

Hem with Cuff: $20

Taper Leg (Two Seam): $30

Taper Leg (Four Seam): $60

Adjust Waist/Seat: $25

Replace Zipper: $25

Add Hem Guard: $25

COMING SOON: A Guide to Suit Pants Alterations.

Shirt Alterations

Add Darts: $15

Taper Sides (Serged): $25

Taper Sides (French Seams): $45

Shorten Shirt Tails: $25

Shorten Sleeves: $25

Move Collar Button: $5

My favorite story of the “money well-spent” aspect of suit alterations is the story of my vintage Yves Saint Laurent three-piece suit. I found it in an LA consignment shop and though it didn’t fit me perfectly – the pants were classic 1970s wide and the jacket sleeves were a little long and wide as well – I knew that I wouldn’t take much for my tailor Earle to whip it into shape.

DONT MISS: The HSS Guide to Finding a Quality Tailor

The suit’s main “selling point” for me was that the shoulders fit immaculately. (N.B. Reducing a suit jacket’s shoulders is major surgery. I would never buy a suit or blazer – vintage or otherwise – if the shoulders didn’t fit. It’s simply not worth the hassle, expense, or potential headache if it doesn’t come out right.) So at $250, it was a steal.

So $150 in alterations later, I had a suit that I’d say I’ve gotten more than my money out of.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Money Well Spent: An Alterations Price Guide first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

When I first started to get serious about refining my personal style, I ran into an industry fellow who categorized himself as a “shoe guy.” As more or less a style novice, I didn’t quite understand his predilection for footwear.

Since I was just getting my footing – pun, honestly, not intended – in the broader world of men’s style, my mind was focused on things like the tenuous distinctions between bespoke and MTM and the merits of patch pockets v. flap pockets. Footwear was calculus and I was still learning to add.

Fast forward several years and I can now say that I “get it.” Shoes are the anchor of every outfit and having the right footwear for the right occasion is key. Cap-toes and wingtips are essential footwear styles, but once you really get down into it you realize there are so many other styles that can be the perfect complement to the perfect outfit. Take the wholecut shoe, for instance.

| WEARING | Daniele Alessandrini coat, Al Bazar blazer, Saks Fifth Avenue shirt and tie, Vintage Yves Saint Laurent pants, Citizen watch, Briefcase c/o Maxwell Scott, Vintage cufflinks, Martin Wholecut Oxford Shoes c/o Paul Evans | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

What is a wholecut shoe? It’s fairly simple, actually, and exactly what it sounds like. Most shoes are made with multiple pieces of leather stitched together to form the shoe’s upper. A wholecut shoe, on the other hand, is cut from just one piece. The result is a very clean, refined and elegant look.

In black, they are a good candidate for replacing the patent leather tuxedo shoe. In fact, I’d say that a black wholecut looks better than patent leather with a tux any day of the week. And in oxblood, they’re perfect for a polished business ensemble. The pair I’m wearing are a new offering from NY-based footwear company, Paul Evans. Here’s a bit about them.

High-quality footwear can be a costly endeavor, but as a direct to consumer luxury footwear brand, Paul Evans completely eliminates the middle man and, thereore, the retail markup. A similar shoe would cost upwards of $800 in a department store, but they’re able to sell at a much lower price point – $400 and below.

All Paul Evans shoes are handmade in Naples, Italy, using the best Italian calfskin leather in a family-owned factory of artisans trained in the fine art of Italian shoemaking.

The Martin Wholecut is actually my second pair of Paul Evans shoes – I’ve also got a pair of oxblood cap toes. The shoes are comfortable and fit well, though I’d definitely order a size down, as their site recommends. As these are new for me, I can’t speak to how they’ve broken in over time, but as they’re made with high-quality leather, I’d be surprised if they don’t continue to get better with age.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

In partnership with Paul Evans. The opinions expressed herein are mine alone and are not indicative of the opinions or positions of Paul Evans.

The post Stepping In Style: The Oxblood Wholecut Shoe first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

If you’ve been a longtime HSS reader, you’ve heard me say many times that the waistcoat/trousers pairing from a three-piece suit is my favorite underrated – and underutilized – combination.

Adding to our summer and fall styling ideas for this combo, here’s one for winter in a beautiful brown wool houndstooth fabric.

Duffle coat c/o Tommy Hilfiger, QG Custom waistcoat and pants, Turtleneck c/o Ted Baker, Tateossian and Cantini MC Firenze bracelets, Boots c/o Tawny Goods | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

As you know, I’ve been all about the turtleneck this winter. On it’s own, under a shirt, and now under a waistcoat. I like it because it’s sophisticated, yet casual. A tie is always a more formal option and with the waistcoat/trousers combo it has the potential to come off as costumey in some situations.

Don’t forget that just like your suit jacket, blazer, or sport coat, your waistcoat pockets are functional as well. Carefully remove the stitching and use them for your wallet, phone, keys, or business cards.

Several of you have asked about why this waistcoat has four buttons as opposed to five (or more). The reason has to do with the addition of lapels on the waistcoat. The particular made to measure program I went through for this suit – same as my blue suit – goes to a four-button waistcoat with the addition of lapels.

I don’t have any waistcoats with lapels and I wanted to add them to this piece because of both the fabric and pattern. I thought it would be a good way to add a nice sartorial touch when wearing it like this or in a more casual setting with jeans.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Vastly Underrated: The Waistcoat/Trouser Combo first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Unless you’re extremely lucky with the fit of off the rack suit jackets or you get all of them made to measure, chances are you’re going to need some alterations. The good news is that when it comes to getting a suit jacket tailored, a little work goes a long way in terms dialing in fit.

A quick word on terminology: throughout this post I use the term ‘suit jacket.’ In the context of suit jacket alterations, you could also substitute ‘blazer’ or ‘sport coat.’

Here is a list of some of the most common (and necessary) suit jacket alterations.

Suit Jacket Length

| WEARING | Reiss Suit, Al Bazar shirt, Brooks Brothers tie, Watch c/o Uniform Wares | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

A suit jacket’s length can be altered. However, it cannot be made longer – only shorter. It’s a risky alteration because the spacing of the pockets and button holes cannot be changed and if a jacket is shortened too much, you run the risk of compromising the balance of the garment. Anything more than an inch is probably too much.

Worth the money? Maybe.

Bottom line: Only shorten a suit jacket if the amount it needs to be shortened is relatively minor and will not throw off the jacket’s balance.

Sleeves

The sleeves are the one part of the suit jacket you’re definitely going to need altered. Here are some sleeve alterations to consider.

Lengthen/Shorten. How long should a suit jacket’s sleeve be? The correct length is one that allows 1/2″ to 3/4″ of your shirt cuff to show. Keep in mind that there is a limit to the amount a sleeve can be lengthened – this is a case-by-case call based on the amount of fabric under the cuff or at the top of the sleeve.

Slimmed-Down/Widened. You want the width of your jacket sleeves to be slim, but still allow a comfortable range of motion. Slimming the sleeves of my vintage Yves Saint Laurent suit was the key to making it fit me perfectly.

Worth the money? Yes.

Bottom line: A sleeve length or width alteration is money well spent. Keep in mind that there is a significant cost difference depending on whether you have functioning button holes (a.k.a. surgeon’s cuffs) or not. Be sure to check out our suit alterations price guide for a breakdown.

Chest and Stomach

Take In/Let Out. Without a doubt, one of the key alterations when it comes to having a suit jacket that looks like it was made (or tailored) for you. And it often doesn’t take much. Both of my Al Bazar blazers – grey and brown – were taken in just 1cm on each side for a perfect fit. However, like lengthening a jacket sleeve, there is a limit to how much can be let out.

Problem: Lapels don’t lay flat. This is a very common issue and, unfortunately, one that can’t be remedied with tailoring. If you’re having this problem, chances are that you’ve bought a jacket that’s too small. Size up and go from there.

Worth the money? Yes.

Bottom Line: A little goes a long way here when it comes to making a suit jacket look great around your chest, stomach and sides.

Shoulders and Collar

If you’re thinking about shoulder and collar alterations, you’re wading into some very dangerous territory. Not only is it major surgery (and therefore very costly), but there is absolutely no guarantee that they’ll be successful or that the integrity of the jacket will be maintained.

While a suit jacket’s shoulders can technically be extended or reduced, and a collar roll can technically be corrected, it’s expensive and ultimately not worth your tailor’s time (or your possible tears).

Worth the money? Nope.

Bottom Line: If you’re considering alterations that concern the shoulders and collar, the hard truth is that you’ve got the wrong jacket.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Suit Alterations 101: The Jacket first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

When you’re packing for travel – whether that’s a weeklong vacation, a weekend getaway, or a quick overnighter – it’s important to make the most of the space you have in your suitcase, carry on, or duffle bag.

And in addition to optimizing space, you also want to do your best to keep your clothing – especially those nice pieces – safe and as wrinkle-free as possible.

Traveling as much as I do every year, I’ve pretty much dialed in a method and routine. And we’re kicking off a brand new How To Pack It series to share those tips with you.

First up: how to fold and pack a dress shirt. Flip through the photos above for the step-by-step play-by-play.

Step 5 of 10. Halfway done! Use the slideshow for the full monte.

And here are a few common questions answered…

Is it possible to pack a dress shirt so it doesn’t wrinkle?

Unfortunately, no. It doesn’t matter what method you use – folding as illustrated above, another way, or rolling – the hard truth is that when you’re stuffing a piece of clothing in a small space against a bunch of other stuff, it’s going to wrinkle. Your only option is to use the iron at the hotel or to invest in a travel steamer.

How long does this method take?

About one minute.

Is it worth the effort?

Absolutely. I used to lamely fold my dress shirts and waste a ton of space in my luggage as a result. This folding method is extremely compact and saves a ton of space. Plus, it’s extremely symmetrical – the resulting small square is very easy to situate in a suitcase, carry-on, or duffle bag.

Chime in: share your dress shirt folding and packing tips below!

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post How To Pack It: The Dress Shirt first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Among the many classic menswear staples that have gone in and out of style only to see a resurgence in popularity recently, the history of the double-breasted jacket is particularly interesting and unexpected.

When you think of a double-breasted jacket/suit, what’s the first thing to come to mind? My guess is either a stodgy 80s or 90s banker-type or a wide-shouldered caricature of a mafia boss. Either way, it’s all formality and rigidity, right?

The double-breasted jacket was originally banned by many businesses as inappropriate office attire.

But that’s where your assumptions would lead you astray. In fact, the origins of the double-breasted jacket go back to a distinctly casual style called a ‘reefer’ jacket.

| BRIAN WEARS | Al Bazar double-breasted blazer, Saks Fifth Avenue shirt and tie, Vintage Yves Saint Laurent pants, Vintage cuff links, Citizen watch, Davidoff Year of the Monkey cigar | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Like most all men’s jackets, the reefer jacket was born in the sporting world. Originally very casual and usually worn as outerwear, in the late 19th century it was associated with gents heading to tennis matches or other country affairs, and was in fact banned by many businesses as inappropriate office attire.

The double-breasted jacket originated in the sporting world as a casual garment called the Reefer Jacket.

Yet, over time, the double-breasted jacket was slowly adapted into a more formal piece – a shift heralded in large part by the Duke of Windsor (who led many style trends of his time). However, even when he started wearing the style to official public outings, it was originally seen as gauche and poor taste (or rebelliously counter-traditional, depending who you ask).

That said, once the double-breasted jacket became acceptable as business-wear, it very quickly lost almost all of it’s casual regard. Through the 1930s and 40s it became a solidly business-formal look, eventually becoming the uniform de rigueur of big-money men, whether they be bankers attending important board meetings on Wall Street or iconic mafia leaders like Al Capone.

And while those mob bosses wore the double-breasted look with much aplomb, the style gradually lost it’s flair, and by the 80s and 90s was relegated almost entirely to businessmen and frumpy insurance salesmen in ill-fitting and flat grey numbers – John Gotti, notwithstanding.

However, just as the recent wave of menswear enthusiasm has brought the more simple and versatile single-breasted suit back into the casual wardrobes of stylish men, the double-breasted suit has made a more widespread come-back as well. It’s a bold move, but the payoff can be a striking and distinctive look.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

The post Style Defined: The Double-Breasted Jacket first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice