from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Dapper spring wedding style that won’t upstage the groom

Wedding season is about to get into full swing. As a matter of fact, Robin and I are attending one this weekend. And how to dress for a wedding is a question we get a lot here at HSS.

Here’s some spring wedding outfit inspiration, featuring a brown seersucker suit.

| WEARING | Saks Fifth Avenue suit, Banana Republic shirt, Gitman Bros. tie, Ray-Ban sunglasses, Reiss pocket square, Watch c/o Uniform Wares, Loafers c/o Allen Edmonds | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

If you’re going to be a guest at a wedding, one of the cardinal rules for dressing is to never upstage the groom. One way to do that is to wear muted or unassuming colors. Navy, grey, or if you’re feeling adventurous, browns. For me, it’s a no-brainer.

Also, keep it simple. Chances are the groom may be sporting a tux, so as a guest, a regular suit with necktie – not a bow tie, which will most certainly call attention to itself – is a safe option. And since it’s spring, a silk knit tie is perfect.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Dressing for a Spring Wedding first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

It doesn’t have to be Earth Day to work with a natural color palate

Discussions of color – and adding color into one’s wardrobe – always center around bright colors. For some of us, however, it’s just not “us.” And there’s nothing wrong with that.

It’s possible to be sartorially sophisticated and not be “wild” or “into fashion.” As a matter of fact, I’d argue that guys with the most sophisticated style are often above those kinds of categorizations.

As someone who generally shies away from bright colors and gravitates towards a more classic palate, the thought of adding color sometimes seems a little inauthentic to me. So when it comes to color, I like to keep it natural.

| WEARING | Z Zegna suit, Al Bazar shirt, Eton tie, Rolex Datejust watch, Oliver Peoples sunglasses, Loafers c/o Allen Edmonds | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

As I mentioned, color doesn’t need to be overwhelming. And if earthy tones are your thing, try to look towards nature for something more organic and, well, natural. The shade of this tie, for example.

It’s what I’d refer to as a vetiver green. You might have heard of vetiver as an essential oil – it’s got a heavy and earthy fragrance and is believed to be grounding, calming and stabilizing. I can’t think of a better color to help cope with the beginning of another hectic work week.

Spring is also prime time for loafers. Every guy needs a great pair of tassel loafers. The Allen Edmonds Graysons are hitting all the right notes for me this season.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post All Natural: Earth Toned Workwear first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Everything we learned about denim last month

It’s May. Thus concludes our first ever month-long editorial focus on one topic here at HSS. You may recall that April was Denim Month. If, by chance, you happened to miss that, here are 10 things we talked/learned about that we think you should know.

The More You Know

If you wanted to know the optimal number of pairs of jeans to own…

If you’ve ever wondered what selvedge denim is…

If you’ve ever wondered what raw denim is…

If you’re confused about the difference between the two…

If you want to see a brand new pair of selvedge jeans next to one that’s four years old…

If you want to know the story of our favorite pairs of jeans…

How To Wear

How to wear a denim jacket to work…

How to wear white jeans (sharp) casually…

How to wear white jeans in pretty much any situation ever…

How to wear worn-in jeans with tailored items…

Did you enjoy the month-long editorial focus? Want more like it? Chime in with your thoughts!

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post 10 Things To Know About Denim first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

15 Things I have learned from taking Amtrak

Over the years, I’ve become something of an expert when it comes to taking Amtrak. Do anything routinely, and you’ll become intimately familiar with both the good and the bad.

Here are some things I’ve learned that might help you the next time you’re thinking of taking Amtrak.

General

If you like to ride in peace, make sure you know where the quiet car is. On the Regional it’s right next to the Business Class car and on the Acela, next to the First Class car.

Sit on the left side of the train if you’re traveling north in the morning or south in the evening.

Sit on the right side of the train if you’re traveling south in the morning or north in evening.

Disregard the last two pieces of advice if you prefer to have the sun in your eyes throughout your trip.

If you have an iPhone, download the Amtrak app and save your tickets to the Apple Wallet. It’s one of the best things ever.

Regional Train

In my experience, trains with specific names, like the Vermonter or Silver Star are always late.

If you can afford it, the Business Class upgrade is always worth it.

The best place to work on a Regional train is the Cafe Car. There are large tables that you can spread out on.

The best way to sleep on the train requires you to have both seats. Recline your seat about 5 inches and then rest your head on the other seat.

Acela

I find the Acela trains to be generally more reliable, comfortable and on time than the Regionals.

The Acela Cafe Car doesn’t have the same set-up as Regional Trains – i.e. no big tables to spread out on. If you need to work and like to spread out, grab a table at either end of each car.

Good Question

How do some people seem to know the track before it’s announced?

1. Lucky guess. Seriously, the more you travel on Amtrak, the more you start to learn which tracks your trains depart from.

2. Club Acela. If you gain status through Amtrak Guest Rewards you are allowed access to Club Acela, where they will announce the track before it’s put up on the large departure board. I use the one in New York Penn Station all the time. I believe you have to be Select Plus to have access.

Is Acela First Class worth it?

Unless you have a lot of disposable income, generally I would say no. I have only paid for First Class once. However, I’ve ridden in First Class many times through upgrades I earned by gaining status on Amtrak Guest Rewards.

When’s the best time to use First Class upgrades?

When you gain status via Amtrak Guest Rewards, you are often given a handful of First Class Upgrades.

I tend to use them when I travel around dinnertime and have had an extremely busy day and when I have something to do immediately when I get to my destination. You get a nice meal – and healthy pours of wine – in First Class so it’s a good option when you really need to unwind.

Is it worth it to buy Guest Rewards points?

If you had asked me prior to the new points rules went into effect, I would have said, “Yes, no doubt.” Frequent Amtrak travelers will remember that regardless of the ticket cost, it used to be 4,000 points for a Regional and 8,000 for an Acela.

I usually book trains last minute, which makes the ticket prices slightly higher. So I’d always buy points because the cost of the points would be less than the cost of four or five tickets.

They’re using a sliding scale for points now based on ticket price and so far I am not impressed. You could end up using 13,000 points for an Acela. So, unfortunately, I don’t think buying points is worth it anymore.

Chime in below with your Amtrak travel tips (or horror stories, which, honestly might be more fun).

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post A Guide to Taking Amtrak first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

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The forward point collar has many attributes, including versatility and middle-of-the-road-ness

The forward point collar (or just ‘point collar’) dress shirt is one of the most classic and traditional pieces of formal and business menswear. Yet it’s one that can be quite easily confused with a myriad of other collar styles. For one thing, they all have points (well, almost all of them) – so what gives?

Think about it this way. The forward point collar refers more to the distance between the points and not so much to the share or form of each point of the collar. By definition, a forward point collar has a much smaller distance between the points than other collar styles.

As a result, the width of the collar appears thinner, especially near the points, although the length of the points remains unchanged. With this shape, the collar points are often left exposed, even with a jacket. A spread collar, on the other hand, will hide beneath the lapels of a blazer or suit jacket.

| BRIAN WEARS | J.Crew blazer, Saks Fifth Avenue shirt, Yves Saint Laurent pants, Reiss tie, Watch c/o Uniform Wares, Belt and shoes c/o Allen Edmonds | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Arguably the greatest ‘pro’ of a point collar is it’s versatility and general middle-of-the-road-ness (coining that term now). It doesn’t make a strong statement in any direction, doesn’t push any buttons or step outside of any boxes, but remains stylish and attractive nonetheless. Always a good conservative choice.

As far as history goes, the point collar is pretty much the OG, likely having been around since the development of the modern dress shirt collar itself. Likewise, it’s a style that’s seen a surge in popularity in concert with other classic menswear styles.

For example, it was big in the 1930s alongside the rise of the traditional men’s suit. Then big again in the 1960s during the Mad Men era of skinny ties and slim lapels. And popping up again in the 1980s as a bastion of ivy league and general preppy dress.

Now, while a forward point collar is a more traditional style, that’s not to say that it’s old-fashioned or out dated. In fact, modern style as of late has been leaning away from the Italian-style cutaway collars and back towards a more solemn, clean point collar.

This may be in large part due to the ‘air-tie’ trend, as a forward point collar sans tie doesn’t leave such a gaping blank spot at the neckline.

If you do decide to wear a forward point collar with a tie, just remember that the room between those points has got to fit your tie. And since a forward point collar has a small gap, you should choose a slimmer knot.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

The post Style Defined: Foward Point Collar first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

This was supposed to be a show in which I told you all of HSS’s secrets…

It started out like that, at least.

You may have noticed a lack of podcast last week. The reason I chose to not publish a show last Friday, was because it violated one of the key components of my process when it comes to publishing anything He Spoke Style.

And that part of the process is when I ask myself: how is this going to be useful to someone?

The focus of the episode was to walk you through the creation of a a style post of the site – from concept to styling to shooting to writing to publishing. Granted, explaining this in great detail – as I had done initially – might possibly be useful to you if you happen to publish a site yourself.

(If that’s you, don’t worry, there’s still a bit of that in the episode.)

But, I’d wager that the majority of you all out there are not in the digital publishing business and, therefore, would have found the second half of the episode monotonously dull and pedantic.

Part of that had to do with the very process of recording the podcast.

So today on the show, we’re talking about – you guessed it – processes. Is having a process good? Is it boring? Do you have to love it? How and when is it important to be able to switch that process up?

These answers and more in a self-reflective (and infinitely more useful) episode of That’s It.

Thanks for listening.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

That’s It is edited by Mack McLaughlin.

The post That’s It: Episode 9, Process first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

From the Ivy to Italy, taking a classic color combination and giving it a continental twist

I know that spring and summer wedding season is real. But when friends start asking for advice on what they should wear to these events, it really hammers it home for me.

My first response is to ask whether or not they’ve checked out the Style Guide. There are a handful of options there. (Note to self: tag more looks in the ‘Wedding’ category, because we’ve got ’em.)

Then it’s questions like, is it during the day or evening? Is it in the city or on a beach? Something in between? These are the questions that can help dial in an outfit choice.

Our contributing whiskey and cigar editor, Chris, was the most recent person to ask me about the spring/summer wedding thing. And actually, he had done his research and was hoping to recreate this look, though in linen instead of seersucker.

He actually bought a light brown linen suit, which looked great, in my opinion, but he wasn’t feeling it for one reason or another – there’s something to be said for knowing one’s own comfort zone, FYI – and ended up exchanging it for a navy blazer and khaki trousers.

So when Chris sent me a photo of his outfit – navy blazer, khaki pants, yellow tie with a foulard print – and asked me what I thought, I said, “That looks very preppy.” It wasn’t a judgement, but he asked how he could make it less preppy. Good question!

| WEARING | Suitsupply blazer, Al Bazar shirt, Saks Fifth Avenue pants, Oliver Peoples sunglasses, Drake’s tie and pocket square, Rolex Datejust watch, Loafers c/o Allen Edmonds | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Nothing screams “classic prep” like a navy blazer and khaki trousers. One way to break the East Coast mold while keeping the color palette is to swap the single-breasted blazer for a double-breasted blazer. Trade the Ivy for Italy.

Next, instead of choosing a tie with a contrasting and/or complementary color, like yellow, pick something in the same color family as the blazer, but with a pattern that will stand out. An interesting plaid is a great choice.

Footwear? Horsebit loafers with a rubber sole will give the formality of the double-breasted blazer an approachable and casual feel.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Italian Prep? Going From Polo to Pellegrino first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

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Esquire asked a panel of women to tell them how they really feel about menswear trends. And the consensus of these “experts'” was that athleisure is better than classic Italian suiting.

Sorry ladies, I’m going to have to double-down with my woman card and highly disagree. But, also, let’s applaud any guy wearing anything he’s confident in, because that is what we are most attracted to, no?

On to the stories you may have missed.

Did you visit your mom this Mother’s Day, or did you send her a 3-D version of yourself via Groupon?

There were a lot of style recaps for the Met Gala last week. While the women may not have fared so well, (most of) the guys looked pretty sharp. There seems to be a lapel-accessory trend emerging…

Also trending: chest hair.

Brooks Brothers is going back to its roots and reviving the preppiest shirt collar. We’ve covered it on the site before.

Speaking of collars, there are a lot of variations out there. We’re building our guide on this subject and the forward point is up first.

Paul Newman made it famous. And if you want one of the newest Rolex Daytonas, you’re going to have to wait a little while to get your hands on one.

KFC’s new product brings a whole new meaning to “chicken fingers”. Is this left swipe or right swipe-worthy?

We got a new office/studio space, stay tuned for the final reveal!

We’re – well, Brian especially – a bit sentimental over The Good Wife’s end, and so is the cast.

“Celebrities, They are Just Like Us”. This means with the good, also comes the bad.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Robin West
He Spoke Style

The post You’ll Have to Wait to Be as Cool as Paul Newman first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Trade the dark navy suit for a lighter and brighter royal blue alternative

We talk a fair bit about seasonal suiting in terms of fabrics. Heavy wools, flannels and tweeds for the fall and winter and lightweight wool, cotton and linen for the spring and summer.

Why do we talk about that? Because fabric weight is an important consideration when building a smart suit wardrobe. But so is color.

There’s certainly no reason you can’t wear a powerful navy suit in the spring and summer, but part of the fun of menswear is to wear clothes that capture the feeling, spirit and essence of a particular season.

A royal blue suit fits the spring/summer bill perfectly.

| WEARING | QG Custom suit, Al Bazar shirt, Drake’s tie, Rolex Datejust watch, Belt and shoes c/o Allen Edmonds | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Longtime HSS readers should recall this particular suit. It was my first made to measure suit and is still one of my favorites.

I plan to update the length of the trousers soon to have just a bit more break. I wanted an aggressive, no-break style when I first got it, but my tastes have evolved slightly since then.

DON’T MISS: The HSS Guide to Pant Breaks

Remember that when it comes to neckties, color is not the only way create contrast. Don’t forget patterns.

Keeping is monochromatic is a subtle way to make a bold statement. A red tie is not necessary for a power suit sort of look.

Since we’re talking about keeping the blues lighter for the spring and summer, let’s also talk about the shoes and belt. Light brown or walnut is a classic choice.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Forget Navy: The Spring/Summer Blue Suit first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Buying your first Rolex watch is a big step – here are some things to think about

I am not a watch expert. The world of fine timepieces is something I am just starting to dip my toes into. And I’m doing so with humility and a reverence for those who truly are bona fide authorities, connoisseurs and aficionados.

Why? Because serious watch culture can be a seriously intimidating place. If you’re frightened by the menswear world, you’ll get a whole other world of vibes from watch geeks online – tribe that ranges from rich dudes who smoke $500 cigars and have Wheels Up memberships to aging hipsters who have an encyclopedic knowledge of Patek Philippe and Rolex reference numbers and want you to know that they do.

It reminds me of when I was a bike racer and I would go into a bike shop for the first time where nobody knew me. The macho posturing and sizing up was not so different than what you’d see in an episode of “Wild Kingdom.” You had to check your ego at the door and let your legs do the talking.

In other words, it’s a club – an exclusive club – that grants membership through demonstrated knowledge, understanding and appreciation.

I’ve been thinking about posting about this topic for a while now because I actually purchased my first Rolex not too long ago. And while I certainly didn’t become an all-knowing expert in the process, I did a lot of thinking about what it means to buy your first Rolex, a lot of research, a lot of reflecting and a lot of back and forth on what my first Rolex would be.

(To all of those points, I’m a perfectionist, a crazy person when it comes to learning all I can about something I’ve deemed worthy of my time and energy and a Libra.)

As a result, I feel as though I’ve picked up a decent amount knowledge and experience when it comes to taking the plunge to make that investment.

And since I’ll wager that anyone reading this post is in the same boat as I was before buying the watch – a non- (or budding) watch geek, normal guy who wants to make the best and most prudent choice for himself – you can rest assured that wherever you are in that journey, you’re not going to be judged.

I’m here to help.

Here are some questions to ask yourself, things to think about and decisions to make when buying your first Rolex watch.

I tried to think of the entire process I went through – which took about five months, by the way – to guide you through it in a logical way. Also included: my advice, obviously. Enjoy.

Why buy a Rolex watch?

You should buy your first Rolex to:

1. Celebrate a milestone, achievement or success in business or life;

2. Own a timepiece that will hold its value over time – it’s an investment;

3. Wear something of quality with a storied history,

When should you buy your first Rolex?

As mentioned, buying your first Rolex is usually a mark of some type of achievement. You’ve got to be ready for it – both financially and emotionally.

First Steps: The Research Phase

Never, ever, rush into purchasing your first Rolex.

Soak up all the information you possibly can. Read and reread and reread articles from respected online publications like Hodinkee, A Blog to Watch and Time & Tide.

There are also a number of excellent Rolex forums out there. Check them out as well for a host of opinions. You probably won’t get a definitive answer from forums like these, but it is helpful to read the range of opinions from the many passionate Rolex disciples online.

At the very least, you will find at least one well-spoken contributor who will help you be more confident regardless of which way you’re leaning.

(An important note for younger HSS readers: Beware of start-up “influencers” who pretend – often in vain – to be knowledgable but hawk whatever cheap piece of Chinese crap they’re given in the guise of an “expert” review.)

New v. Vintage?

There are lots of opinions on whether to buy a new or vintage Rolex. Personally, I think a first Rolex watch should be new. Here’s why.

First, you know exactly what you’re getting. It’s brand new and has no problems (you never know the story of a vintage watch no matter how detailed the history).

Second, I think it’s nice for a first Rolex to truly be yours. As enticing as a vintage Rolex might be, it has had another owner. Wouldn’t you want to feel as though the first Rolex you buy belongs to you and has only belonged to you?

What model should you buy?

This is completely a matter of personal preference and personal style.

Ask yourself these three questions:

1. Do you want something sporty or dressy? Or perhaps something with the most versatility?

2. Do you plan to wear it every day or just on special occasions?

3. What do you want the watch to communicate about you?

Ultimately, your answers will lead you back to your underlying sense of style. Are you a classic guy? A sporty guy? A flashy guy? This will allow you to choose the best model for you.

In general, your first Rolex should be classic and timeless – a piece that you’re going to be proud to wear in 30 years.

In other words, do not buy a Rolex as a fashion statement. For your first Rolex, stay away from colored dials, oversized cases, the latest updates to classic models and anything that points to general flashiness.

It’s also extremely important to try a few different models on. Nothing beats this, as a matter of fact. What looks good on you? What feels right? You won’t know unless you have one on your wrist.

Having said that, here are a few options to consider.

Classic & Dressy

Oyster Perpetual. Simple, understated, classic, no-nonsense. Choose a size and a dial color.

Datejust. Perhaps one of the most classic and recognizable Rolex watches. (I realize that statement could be applied to a few models in the line, but it’s how I feel about the Datejust.) With an Oyster bracelet, it’s a bit more casual and with a Jubilee, it’s dressier.

Sporty

Submariner. I don’t think there is as ubiquitous a sporty Rolex than the Submariner. There’s a reason for that. It’s a classic that will always look good. A solid choice, though be sure to consider how many others are floating around on wrists out there.

GMT Master II. For me, the GMT Master II is the thinking man’s sporty Rolex. If you want a sporty option, I think a GMT Master II is the best choice you can make. And now with the BLNR – first of it’s kind blue/black bezel in Rolex’s patented Cerachrom ceramic – it really is a true investment piece.

Versatile

Explorer. Similar to the Oyster Perpetual in that it is classic and understated, yet with a more adventurous history and pedigree. A good choice if you’re on the fence between a dressy Rolex or a sport one.

Where should you buy a Rolex?

An authorized dealer. Period. Wempe and Tourneau are both stellar options.

Whatever you do, do not buy a Rolex on eBay or any other non-reputable place online. Not that all eBay sellers can’t be reputable, but it’s best to be able to actually visit a store to both try a few on and talk with an expert.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post A Guide To Buying Your First Rolex first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Why do tequila, lime and salt taste so amazingly good together?

I’ve said this before, but tequila often gets a bad rap. It would be interesting to trace the history of the spirit and how it became synonymous with doing shots. Luckily, it’s come back into vogue as the prime ingredient in many a cocktail these days.

Interestingly, when taken as a shot, tequila is usually accompanied first by salt and then a tart lime to balance the saltiness and blunt the burn. There’s something about tequila, salt and lime, isn’t there? You’d have to think so when you consider the classic margarita recipe.

Like the Daiquiri – another classic summer tipple – the margarita contains just three ingredients. You’ll often see triple sec in recipes, but Cointreau has a much more pleasant and elegant taste.

Here’s how we make our margaritas here at HSS.

The Classic Margarita Recipe

2 oz. tequila (silver tequila)
1 oz. Cointreau
1 oz. lime juice

Rub the rim of a cocktail glass with a lime wedge and coat with coarsely ground salt. Combine the tequila, Cointreau and lime juice in a mixing glass. Shake with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

Frozen margaritas are for beach-themed restaurants; a margarita served up is a gentleman’s drink on a warm spring or summer day.

DON’T MISS: More cocktail recipes from the HSS bar cart.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post Classic Tequila Cocktail: The Margarita first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A cutaway collar is a bold, modern and sartorially-advanced style choice

Following the rigid, longer and narrower collars of the 1920s, the cutaway collar dress shirt emerged in the 1930s. This collar style is sometimes referred to as a Windsor collar, alluding to it’s origin as a means to fit Windsor tie knots.

Whereas a forward point collar is usually the narrowest of point widths, the cutaway collar would be the widest. Its points are directed back almost towards the shoulders. This shape has a few notable characteristics worth considering.

First, a skinnier tie or knot will end up showing the collar band on either side, rather than it being hidden by the collar points. It takes a truly wide knot – like a Windsor knot – to keep everything under wraps. (N.B. This is a style choice that is completely up to the wearer.)

A wide knot is likely more business appropriate, but risks a decent dose of Ari Gold-esque salesman sleaze. A skinny knot may stand out in a more conservative setting, but brings a more elevated sense of sartorial panache.

| BRIAN WEARS | Al Bazar blazer, Suitsupply shirt, PT01 pants, Brooks Brothers tie, Rolex Datejust watch, Loafers c/o Allen Edmonds | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Second, in comparison to a forward point collar, where the collar points remain exposed even when wearing a jacket, many feel that a cutaway collar has a more elegant transition into a blazer or suit coat’s lapels, as the points end up hidden beneath them.

Third, the wider collar stance frames the face in a much more particular way than most other collar styles. This looks better on folks with skinnier or longer faces as the width of the cutaway collar will only further accentuate a rounder profile.

Today, while runway designers and cutting-edge fashion might be moving back towards forward point collars, among the general population, the cutaway collar is still seen as the more modern and bold collar choice.

In a sea of standard business attire, a cutaway collar definitely adds a level of sprezzatura. While it does take a bit of style-bravado to pull off, suggesting a distinctly European or British sensibility, the style is a great fit for softer Neopolitan tailoring.

Look no further than a cutaway collar dress shirt to pair with a classic ancient madder tie and an unconstructed blazer to perfectly exude the suave, impeccably dressed Italian gent.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

The post Style Defined: Cutaway Collar first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Some things to help you make small talk at the office water cooler this Monday

While Brian jetting off to a pretty dream-worthy trip right now for the next two days – I’d advise on following along on Instagram – we’re still here to help you get through the morning commute, coffee break or avoidance of too many emails.

Did you watch Drake on SNL this weekend? He finally won us over with his appearance on SNL’s Black Jeopardy pretending to be a neighbour from the North.

The most important part of your suit? Those shoulders.

After this New York Times article about tie vs. no tie, we asked our Tweeps to vote for their preference. Do you agree?

Not a week (or day, really) goes by at HSS that watches are not discussed. Robert Downey Jr.’s “jewelry box” collection of watches – and the amazing video – is sure to start a dialogue.

Three ways to wear a denim jacket. And another. And another.

BMW’s autonomous car is just five years away.

If you’re in NYC, we have an assignment for you: try every Old-Fashioned on this list and report back. We can attest to the quality of No. 1.

This billboard is clever, but may be more distracting to the driver than the action it’s trying to get you to stop doing.

Starting to think about Memorial Day weekend plans? Don’t forget your weekend bag.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Robin West
He Spoke Style

The post Monday Water Cooler Conversation Starters first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

I’ve noticed that my weekend style has started to become very Jerry Seinfeld-esque

Jerry Seinfeld and ‘style icon’ are a name and a term you probably wouldn’t think to associate. And I’m not saying that they should be associated.

As a matter of fact, if you’re in the habit of watching old Seinfeld episodes on Hulu, like me, you may have decided that Jerry Seinfeld could be a poster child for one of many men’s style mistakes.

Proper fit didn’t really seem to be a key consideration. But hey, it was the 1990s, and who really cared if their flannel shirt fit perfectly in the shoulders? Actually, the “right” fit for a grunge-inspired flannel look was bigger and baggier.

I found myself thinking about this recently as I watched “The Jacket” (Season 2, Episode 3). Jerry drops an undisclosed amount of money – George estimates upwards of $1K – on what is a transformative garment for him; a beautiful suede jacket not too unlike one of my favorites.

But looking at that jacket on Jerry – as nice as it was – through my mid-2010s eyes, all I wanted to do was to scream, “But, it doesn’t fit in the shoulders!” You have to imagine me saying that while doing my Seinfeld impression to get the full effect.

| WEARING | Topman bomber jacket, J.Crew shirt, Levi’s jeans, Common Projects sneakers | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Matters of fit notwithstanding, there is something to be learned from Jerry Seinfeld’s style. (At least that’s what I’ve been telling myself as I’ve noticed myself dressing in a very Seinfeld-esque manner the past few weekends.) And that lesson is one that we preach here on HSS all the time: it’s all about the basics.

What was Jerry’s signature style on the show? In general, it was button-up shirt tucked into black jeans and finished off with white sneakers. And when he wore a jacket, it was usually a cropped number, like a bomber.

Recreating Jerry’s signature look in contemporary times works only if you pay attention to fit. Make sure your shirt and jacket fit in the shoulders. Wear jeans with a tapered leg. And update the chunky-soled Nikes for a sleek pair of leather sneakers.

I call it Jerry Seinfeld style, because it resembles something that was a cultural reference point during my adolescence. But, I guess that not seen through that lens, it’s just a good, solid basic way of dressing. Now you know what to wear this weekend!

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post The ’90s Are Back! Jerry Seinfeld Style first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Should we welcome chest hair back with a big furry embrace?

A couple of years ago we published a post that got a little more artistic than our typical style editorial. We got some nice feedback on the photo styling but on certain channels, there was some pretty negative and, frankly, hateful feedback on something that seemed so ridiculously trivial: my chest hair.

Now, I know that you can’t please everyone and comments of that nature usually go in one ear and out the other – sticks and stones and all that. But I think I was sensitive over the issue because for the longest time I was in the habit of shaving my chest.

My decision to do so was one based purely on survival. I began my bicycle racing career in Tucson, Arizona, which is a hot-ass place. If you’ve ever engaged in intense athletic activity in the heat, you know that you will do whatever is necessary to keep your core cool to avoid overheating.

Dump water over your head, have an ice vest custom-tailored as to not overheat warming up on the trainer prior to a criterium or time trial (yes, I actually did this). Though the most basic instinct – for a cyclist, at least – is to unzip your jersey.

The problem with that solution is that if you have chest hair, the effect is minimal. This is one of the reasons that cyclists shave their legs. The lack of leg hair allows your perspiration to evaporate faster, which has a cooling effect. Thus began years of chest shaving.

The launch of HSS coincided with the end of my competitive cycling career – so there was no reason for me to shave my legs or my chest anymore. So, naturally, I let it go. But you have to get into my headspace to understand that after doing something like that for so long, going au naturale was a foreign thing, and there was a certain level of self-consciousness that went along with it.

Anyhow, the point is that I am no longer shaving my chest bare and based on recent findings in The New York Times, chest hair is a grooming trend that men are welcoming back with a big, furry embrace.

It makes sense. We know that fashion is cyclical. And to pull off a certain style, it’s helpful to have the grooming to match. Right now, fashion on both a micro and macro level is just starting to edge out of the 1970s and into the 1980s. (Though my weekend style is suggesting the 1990s.)

I think the “chest hair trend” also reflects one of the ways in which straight white men are trying to grapple with the question of who we are in an age when many groups – minorities, women, gays – have already had movements to truly define themselves.

(N.B. If you haven’t already read it, I recommend going back and reacquainting yourself with our interview with Kyan Douglas. It’s one of my favorite conversations on the site. In it, we touched upon many of the same cultural issues being discussed here.)

Like the lumbersexual and urban beardsman, chest hair-sporting men suggest, from a cultural standpoint, that guys are looking for an extremely hyper-masculine way to identify and distinguish themselves from movements like the metrosexual, which didn’t have such clearcut gender and sexual boundaries.

This leaves some questions on the table. Is chest hair sexy? If it’s not now, will it be in a few years? Is there such a thing as too much chest hair? Should you trim it?

What are your thoughts on chest hair? Chime in below!

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

By the way, from time to time, we’ll be posting long-form articles on Medium. Some of them will even be exclusive. If you’re a Medium user, head on over and follow us there.

Featured Tom Selleck image via Getty Images; image within copy via The New York Times.

The post Chest Hair: Let’s Talk About It first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

What is a band collar shirt? Well, in simple terms, it’s a dress shirt without a collar!

When looking at the development of a particular menswear style, the band collar is especially interesting. The reason? For one, there are numerous and varied ‘origin’ stories that have all come together to result in one garment with a small variety of subtle stylistic differences.

But first, what exactly is a band collar shirt? The answer is relatively simple – it’s a shirt with just a band for the collar. More elaborately, it’s a shirt that eschews the go-to turn-down collar, instead being formed from a singular, flat band of cloth that runs around the neck.

It’s like a regular dress shirt with the turn-down collar (or collar cape) snipped off. In fact, it’s an easy DIY project to make your own in that very method.

Types of Band Collar Shirts

First, there’s the standard band collar that is probably the most common these days. This variety is the simplest, with the shirt merely ending where a standard shirt collar would begin.

This look is likely derived from classic workwear back in the days when shirts had removable collars. White collar workers would attach a collar and style with a tie, while tie-less blue-collar workers would often go sans-collar.

As such, this has been a popular look with chambray and denim shirts, although it’s been adapted to dressier shirting as well.

| BRIAN WEARS | J.Crew blazer and band collar shirt, Saks Fifth Avenue pants, Goorin Bros. hat, Oliver Peoples sunglasses, Watch c/o Uniform Wares, Fujifilm X100S camera, Common Projects sneakers | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

The second is the Mandarin collar, which is a term often mistakenly used for all band collar shirts, but actually refers to a specific variety.

As opposed to a regular band collar, a Mandarin collar extends (usually 2-5 centimeters) above the neckline, and could more appropriately be called a stand collar.

As implied, this look is an appropriation of the necklines of gowns worn by Mandarins in Imperial China. Where a band collar closes entirely at the throat, a Mandarin collar often (though not always) leaves a gap where the fabric rises above the button closure.

Last is the Nehru collar, which is actually very visually similar to a Mandarin collar. The distinction lies more in the type of garment with which it is used.

Mandarin collars usually refer to shirts while Nehru collars refer to a jacket style picked up from traditional Indian attire – a style rocked notably by Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru, hence the name.

Styling the Band Collar Shirt

Now, while band collar shirts used to have pretty specific connotations, these days they’ve been developed to fit pretty much any occasion.

A standard band collar was once limited to purely casual attire purely by nixing the option of a tie, but in an air-tie welcome world, it’s become common practice to wear the style under a blazer, or even a suit.

Likewise, a Mandarin or Nehru collar used to stand out as distinctly foreign, but with the current amalgamation of influences evident all over men’s fashion, it’s a look that is still unique without screaming ‘exotic’.

Wear it buttoned up for clean sophistication, or with a few buttons undone, as Brian has done here, for a relaxed and breezy vibe!

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

The post Style Defined: Band Collar first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A tequila cocktail recipe that’s perfect for late-afternoon laziness (or any time, really)

Great modern craft cocktails often pay tribute to bona fide bar classics. And The Siesta, a perfectly balanced tequila cocktail, is certainly no exception.

The Siesta is based off of the venerable Hemmingway Daiquiri – rum, lime and grapefruit juices, maraschino and simple syrup – and does two substitutions and a minuscule amount of tinkering with proportions.

First, tequila instead of rum as the main spirit. And second, bitter Campari in place of the unmistakably unique sweetness of maraschino. The result is a cocktail with a perfect blend of smoke, bitter, tart and sweet. It doesn’t get much better than that.

Siesta Cocktail Recipe

2 oz. Silver Tequila
.5 oz. Campari
.5 oz. Lime Juice
.5 oz. Grapefruit Juice
.5 oz. Simple Syrup

Combine the tequila, Campari, lime juice, grapefruit juice and simple syrup in a mixing glass. Shake with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a grapefruit twist.

You can try experimenting with different types of tequila, but I have found that silver tequila works best. I used Maestro Dobel Humito, which gave it a slightly smokier taste.

THIRSTY FOR MORE? Cocktail recipes from the HSS bar.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

This recipe is by Katie Stipe, via Jim Meehan’s fantastic PDT Cocktail Book; Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post Sleep It Off: The Siesta Cocktail first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

What music changed your life?

Everyone has music that affected us so powerfully that we can remember exactly where and when we first heard it. Music that almost changed us in one way or another. Today on the show, five pieces of music that were life-changing for me.

Igor Stravinsky, The Rite of Spring

If you’ve never listened to The Rite of Spring, I’ll wager you’ll be struck by how modern and contemporary it sounds – especially since it was written over 100 years ago. There are several spots that it almost sounds like a DJ switching between channels on his/her mixer and spots that wouldn’t sound out of place in a Metallica tune.

John Coltrane, “Giant Steps”

Getting this album and listening for the first time was a rite of passage. I remember how eager I was to pop it into the CD player and check out what I’d only heard talked about with such reverence you’d think it was a holy text. And, for jazz, if kind of was. Truly game-changing and transformative.

The Beatles, “Tomorrow Never Knows”

One interesting thing to note about this tune that I discovered during the intense period of Beatles research I entered into once I became obsessed, is that at 1:28 there is a high-pitched sound. That marks the exact middle of the track – not on the video, but on the album. Pretty neat.

Steve Reich, Different Trains

There are minimalist pieces I honestly prefer over Different Trains – Reich’s Music for 18 Musicians and Philip Glass’s Glassworks come to mind – but this was the composition that really opened my ears to a completely different world of music and sound.

Bob Brookmeyer, “The Nasty Dance”

Listening to this for the first time in a while, I couldn’t help but think that this recording is absolutely perfect in so many ways. The colors, texture and layering of the ensemble. Lovano’s absolutely sick playing. (I’ve always loved the short lick at 8:04 and remember having a “holy shit” moment the first time I heard this recording when I heard him quote “Softly As A Morning Sunrise” at 8:28.) The emotional arc of the piece and the way it builds and climaxes is perfect. It doesn’t get any better than this.

Chime in with some of the music that changed your life. Let’s make a playlist.

And don’t forget to subscribe to That’s It in iTunes and give us a five-star rating.

Thanks for listening.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post That’s It: Episode 10, Life-Changing first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

While we were up to the normal Monday routine, Brian was driving a Ferrari up and down the California coast last week. If that wasn’t hard enough, we got to taste Louis XIII when he flew back. Indeed, it was a tough week…

Stay tuned for more coverage of both experiences coming to the site, very soon.

In other news:

Is “dapper” a dirty word?

Memorial Day weekend is a few days away and that means it’s all about ‘white’. If you’re looking to add a white blazer to your wardrobe, David Gandy is doing it well. If that’s too risky for you, try a tan variation.

If the weekend becomes a rain-out, we highly recommend watching The Nice Guys. A bit slapstick, a bit retro, a bit of Ryan Gosling. What else do you need?

Everything comes down to negotiation. Luckily, you only need these 10 steps to finesse your skills.

Are you 31 and still living with roommates? You are not alone.

Yes, a gentleman should wear a double-breasted blazer. And yes, he can have multiple colors.

If you want to go full-blown British, check out Mr. Porter’s newly launched “Kingsman” collection.

These kids that took their pets to prom had the right idea.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Robin West
He Spoke Style

The post Man, That Cat’s Dapper… first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Luckily, style and utility go hand-in-hand in the menswear world

Lately I’ve been feeling like the old “April flowers bring May flowers” saying needs to be updated. I think we had something like 15 straight days of rain here. Nothing dampens the spirits quite like a dreary, rainy day.

However, part of “having style” is knowing how to dress appropriately for any situation , to include the weather. I see too many guys wearing the right clothing for the rain and looking soaked and sloppy as a result. Nothing stylish about that.

Here are a few things to help stay dry in style.

| WEARING | Burberry trench coat, Barena waistcoat, Brooks Brothers Black Fleece shirt, J.Crew jeans, Rolex Datejust watch, L.L. Bean rain shoes | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

If the forecast calls for rain, the first coat I reach for is my trench. It can be styled in a variety of ways, is water repellent, and is a truly iconic piece of outerwear.

DON’T MISS: How To Belt a Trench Coat

Knowing how to dress for any situation also means that you’ve planned ahead and have the right accessories. For the rain, that’s an umbrella. Like most things we don’t use that often, it’s easy to keep kicking the can down the road – “Oh, I’ll get a decent umbrella before the next time it’s pouring outside.”

Only you never do and one of two things happens: you get soaking wet (again) or you pay too much for a flimsy POS from opportunistic street vendors or Duane Reade.

Guys have a few options when it comes to footwear for the rain. Rubber shoe covers, some sort of rain shoe/boot or just ruining your nice leather shoes.

Galoshes are an option for the businessman who needs to look good in the office or at a meeting and doesn’t feel like carrying his dress shoes while wearing a rain-specific boot or shoe. I remember my dad wearing them when I was growing up.

If I’m headed nowhere in particular – i.e. no meetings that require me to be dressed up – I really like the L.L. Bean rain moc. I sometimes walk through puddles while wearing them. Just because I can.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post What To Wear When It Rains first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice