from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A leather duffle bag is a versatile choice no matter what kind of traveler you are.

When it comes to stylish travel bags, a quality leather duffle bag ranks right up at the top. Large enough for a weekend getaway, yet small enough to qualify as an airplane carry-on, it’s an extremely versatile choice no matter what kind of traveler you are.

Pros: Extremely stylish; very roomy and can fit more than you think (see below, also); takes on a beautiful patina as it ages; will last for decades if the leather is high-quality and taken care of properly.

MUST READ: How To Store a Leather Duffle Bag

Cons: Not something you want to take out in the rain; easy to overpack and can get very heavy in the hand and on the shoulder; scratches are unavoidable.

| WEARING | Levi’s denim jacket, Neiman Marcus shirt, PT01 pants, Vintage club tie, Rolex Datejust watch, Lanvin sneakers | LUGGAGE | Leather duffle bag c/o Ghurka | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

There’s a certain stylish allure to a leather duffle bag. It’s a grown-up upgrade to a canvas one (not that a canvas duffle can’t be exceedingly stylish) and has a definite feeling of arrival (travel pun intended).

I have always been a fan of carrying exactly what I need and nothing more – hey, you’re talking to the guy who once did a style experiment bordering on performance art – which should come as no surprise since we always like to trumpet versatility on the site. So when I travel with a leather duffle bag, packing it and planning what to pack is a fun exercise.

Perfect For: Weekend getaways, air travel when you want a more stylish carry-on than a rolling one; guys who like to pack only what they need.

Our Pick: Ghurka ‘Cavalier II’ Leather Duffle Bag

ANOTHER CARRY-ON: Of the wheeled, rolling variety.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Utility and Style: The Leather Duffle Bag first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A history of the trench coat from World War I to Hollywood’s silver screen.

Military-inspired and ultra-classic, the trench coat is one piece of outerwear that will never go out of style. Its defining characteristics are simple and driven by necessity – protective gabardine fabric, a standard khaki color, a full-length, belted, double-breasted cut with wide lapels – and each characteristic has a very logical history.

While we can definitely link the rise of the trench coat back to WWI, it would never have come to be without the invention of gabardine fabric, outside of the military at the hands of Burberry’s very own Thomas Burberry.

Recognizing a need in the late 1800s for a waterproof/resistant fabric that was less stinky and sweaty than the currently available rubberized cotton, Burberry created a new fabric in which the individual threads were rubberized, rather than the entire cloth. Thus, gabardine, a waterproof yet breathable cotton fabric, was born. The remaining characteristics, however, came directly from the demands of military use.

The introduction of the khaki color was one of the first moves towards camouflage. Prior to WWI, most battles were fought close range, and bright uniforms were essential in identifying one’s comrades. As military technology developed, those bright colors turned into a liability as it only made soldiers easier targets. Instead, armies started trying to blend into their backgrounds, and khaki was the first choice.

The final development that sparked the trench coat was the introduction of trench warfare. British soldiers and officers who had traditionally worn heavy serge (wool) topcoats. These kinds of coats were already heavy when worn dry, and became dangerous hazards in the trenches, where they would get wet, caked with mud, and seriously hinder movement and mobility.

Gabardine was introduced as an alternative, and while the trench coat never became standard issue, it became a highly desirable piece of optional outerwear in the British Army. From that point on, the garment was picked up by armies across the world, and eventually the general public.

Over time not much has changed – the double-breasted closure and wide lapels were there from the start, along with the belt to hold things together. The epaulets were added during WWI to allow soldiers to display rank, and D-rings found their place supposedly to hang grenades from, although that claim has never been wholly substantiated.

In the public sphere, actors like Humphrey Bogart made the trench coat and fedora look the standard for a Hollywood film-noir protagonist. Later it became the uniform de rigueur for private eyes and gumshoes, who used a baggy cut and a popped collar to stay discreet and clandestine.

These days, designers recognize the slimming cut of a more tailored trench coat as a classier raingear alternative to a more casual parka or poncho, matching just as well with a suit and tie as a jumper and jeans, and are offering it in a variety of colors and custom finishings. As long as you avoid a brand that fits like a sack (yep, they’re out there), it’s hard to go wrong.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

The post Style Defined: The Trench Coat first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A little spring transition style that’s more feels-like-winter than feels-like-spring.

It’s that time of year when Mother Nature can’t quite tell whether it’s winter or spring. This past week was a perfect illustration. 70 degrees one day then barely into the 40s on another? There’s a reason why it’s called a transition.

Every year around this time, it’s a little tricky to know what to put on in the morning. You’ve got to have your feels-like-spring style as well as your still-feels-like-winter style at the ready. We’re dealing with the latter today.

I’m the opposite of many, in that I actually love the cold weather. So when there are winter-like spring days, I’m a happy guy. It gives me a chance to breathe a little more life into some of my favorite fall/winter pieces before they get packed away for the season.

| WEARING | Suitsupply blazer, Turtleneck c/o Ted Baker, Jeans c/o Armani Exchange, Beams Plus scarf, Rolex Datejust watch, To Boot New York boots | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Among those favorites, a thin wool turtleneck is just about the most perfect piece for a cooler spring day. It’s warm enough to give you the option of ditching a coat in favor of a wool blazer, which looks a lot more springlike than a topcoat.

A silk scarf is a great all-around “hero” piece for any early-spring look. Remember that scarves are both functional and aesthetic and don’t necessarily need to be serving both purposes to justify wearing one.

I love how it has the ability to pull an entire outfit together and add a touch more class to a blazer/jeans combination.

Spring is a great time for suede shoes. And you know how we feel about a good pair of suede dress boots.

Thanks, as always, for reading. Enjoy the weekend.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post When It’s Spring But Feels Like Winter first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Let’s just put it out there: last week was a bad week for the world. And while we should think about and remember those things that happened, a little distraction isn’t always a bad thing. Luckily, the internet provides plenty of that. Here are some of our favorite stories from the week that was.

Thom Browne talks about his love for slim suits and hate for fast fashion.

Some products to help you step up your grooming game. You should also invest in a good comb.

Another version of an Old Fashioned that we are definitely going to add to our list, which already includes the classic, the slightly spicy and the savory smoky.

We don’t agree that all of these chindogu inventions are “un-useless,” but don’t hate the idea of the “Subway Sleeper.”

When an extra inch or two can actually be a bad thing. There’s a guide to help you evaluate and fix that.

After all these years, Batman and Superman finally share the big screen. If you’ve already seen it, are the reviews fair?

Speaking of movies, here are the 20 films that every gentleman should see in their lifetime. We’ve seen 14 out of 20 – time to Netflix and chill a bit. How about you?

Today in WTF: the technology that has been used in chemical warfare suits is now being used to sell – wait for it – $75 fart-proof underwear.

Ready to start shopping for spring? First, get inspired. And then, head to J.Crew for 25% off your purchase of $125 or more with “SHOPMORE”.

Brotailers?

Microsoft verifies that the internet is full of trolls through the unfortunately quick demise of their Twitter chatbot. Maybe it shouldn’t have been a Millennial.

HSS article throwback: the style debate that seems to always pit men against each other in the warmer months.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Robin West
He Spoke Style

The post Get Your Mind Off the Bad Stuff first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Keep it simple: plaid blazer, navy pants, white button-down shirt, knit tie. Done.

What should you wear to work tomorrow? Obviously, this is a personal decision, but we’re in the inspiration business here. Here’s a simple spring business casual outfit built around pieces you probably already have in your closet.

| WEARING | Reiss blazer, Brooks Brothers Black Fleece shirt, J.Crew pants, Gitman Bros. tie, Rolex Datejust watch, Tod’s shoes | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

What’s the one thing you should be looking for when thinking about purchasing any staple wardrobe items? Repeat after me: versatility. If there’s one message to take away from the HSS playbook, it’s that. And if you build a smart suit wardrobe, you may even wear certain pieces more often as separates, which, for me, has been the case with this plaid blazer.

The best part about classic menswear pieces, is that they look good on literally any guy. But – yes, there’s a but – they will only look great, if they’re tailored properly. So do yourself a favor and find a good tailor and have him/her work a little magic.

By the way, if you’re confused about the differences between a suit jacket, blazer and sport coat, we’re working on an article to answer that question. Stay tuned.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Simply Classic: Spring Business Casual first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A step-by-step guide to make your white leather sneakers look (almost) brand new.

All footwear requires some type of maintenance. But perhaps no kind of footwear shows the need for upkeep more than a pair of white leather sneakers. Time for some spring cleaning!

Here’s what you need to give your white leather sneakers a good cleaning and how to do it.

What You Need

| SNEAKERHEAD FAVORITE | Jason Markk products have become the standard for cleaning leather sneakers.

Here’s a list of everything you need to give your white leather sneakers a good cleaning.

1. Bowl of water

2. Toothbrush

3. Mr. Clean Magic Eraser

4. Firm bristle brush

5. Shoe cleaning solution

6. Stain and water repellent

How To Do It: Step-By-Step

1. Remove your laces.

2. Use the magic eraser to clean up around the sole. If there’s not a lot of grime on the sole, the magic eraser will do the job. If it needs a deeper clean, a good scrub from the brush will take care of that.

3. Add some cleaning solution directly onto the brush. Dip the brush in the water and scrub the leather and sole, working into a lather.

4. For places the brush doesn’t quite reach, use a toothbrush with hard bristles. This is a great tool for getting into all the areas where dirt can accumulate, like the ridges around the lace area and the sole.

IMPORTANT QUESTION: Can you wear sneakers with a suit?

5. Wipe off the lather with a towel and allow the sneakers to dry.

6. There are three options for cleaning the laces. 1) Clean them in warm soapy water. 2) Add them to a mesh wash bag and throw them in with your next load of laundry. Or 3) spend a few bucks for a set of new laces.

7. Once the sneakers have dried, spray them with the stain/water repellent and allow to cure for 24-48 hours.

BONUS: For more regular maintenance and quick touch ups, definitely pick up a few packs of these sneaker wipes.

This is the method that I use to clean my white leather sneakers. I know there are lots of homegrown DIY methods out there. If you’ve got one you use and particularly like, chime in below and share it with everyone.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post Spring Cleaning: White Sneakers Edition first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

The HSS aluminum suitcase of choice: the Rimowa Topas Multiwheel.

Try as you might to be an efficient and versatile packer, there are going to be times when a duffle bag or carry-on suitcase isn’t going to cut it. You’re going to need a large suitcase in your arsenal. And here at HSS, there’s one in particular that we prefer.

Here’s a rundown of some of the pros and cons as well as my experience with the Rimowa Topas Multiwheel.

Pros: Very stylish and distinctive; fits more than you think; rolls extremely easily; mesh dividers keep clothing secure; option for various dividers, including a suit bag; TSA locks are a plus; takes on a healthy dose of character and looks better with age (but see below).

NOT HOW YOU ROLL? Try a leather duffle bag, then.

Cons: Dents and scratches easily (that first one really hurts…ouch!); hard to roll on hotel carpet (or cobblestones); did I mention the dents?

| WEARING | Billy Reid suede jacket, Al Bazar shirt, Levi’s jeans, Oliver Peoples sunglasses, Rolex Datejust watch, To Boot New York boots | LUGGAGE | Rimowa Topas suitcase | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Perfect For: World travelers, the jet set, the modern rake, guys who like to keep things for a long time and who appreciate them more when they’re broken in properly.

Our Pick: Rimowa Topas Multiwheel suitcase

Rimowa Topas Multiwheel: My Experience

I bought my Rimowa Topas Multiwheel just about two years ago. I was looking for a new suitcase and I didn’t want another cookie cutter, department store fabric number – I wanted something with a distinctive style from a reputable brand that would last, get better with age, and yes, be super functional.

I flirted with the idea of a Globe-Trotter, but decided against it for a couple reasons, including the price point and practicality (or lack thereof). I travel a lot so while a Globe-Trotter would definitely fit the “distinctive” part of what I was looking for, I had concerns that it wouldn’t hold up over time and continue looking good and not beat up in a bad way.

I also wanted something that would roll. When I travel with a large suitcase, I invariably use all the space it has, which can make it quite heavy. Dragging a heavy suitcase through an airport terminal or around city streets is just plain awful. I’ve been there. So I knew I needed a four-wheel version.

As is my nature, I embarked on some serious research, combing many luggage forums, reading reviews and comparing and contrasting various opinions I came across with what I was ultimately looking for.

I finally decided on a Rimowa Topas Multiwheel for its striking combination of form and function.

Honestly, this is my favorite suitcase I’ve ever owned. It’s very practical and functional, and of course, extremely stylish. You will definitely get some double-takes at hotels and airports rolling this around. It’s a great conversation starter.

PACK IT UP: How to fold your blazers, shirts and pants.

Although I love it, it has had a couple of issues. On my very first trip with it, it was damaged pretty badly. When I retrieved it from the the luggage carousel, one of the rivets on the corner fixture had been ripped off causing the fixture to also come almost completely off.

I had bought it from Zappos and after complaining that I didn’t think this should happen after one trip, they sent me a brand new one the very next day. Good on them.

Since then, the only issue I’ve had was having one side of the wheel come off. It was an easy fix. I just called the Rimowa store on Madison Avenue, sent an email with photos, and a couple days later I had a replacement wheel. This kind of service is what the brand is known for.

I’m usually annoyed by these types of things to a point where I give up and move on to something else. But with the Rimowa Topas, I’m able to easily look past it. Why? Well, I love the way the suitcase feels: the way it rolls, how nimble the wheels are, how easy it is to maneuver. And from a style point of view, it’s remarkable.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Well-Traveled: The Aluminum Suitcase first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Get your style ready for April showers with a classic trench coat.

Spring outerwear is an entirely different beast than fall/winter outerwear. For the spring, lightweight is the name of the game.

Today, we’re highlighting three ways to wear one of the menswear’s most classic lightweight outerwear pieces: the trench coat. Hey, April showers are right around the corner!

THE MORE YOU KNOW: Where did trench coats originate?

1. Classic Business

| WEARING | Trench Coat c/o Lands’ End, Vintage Yves Saint Laurent suit, Neiman Marcus shirt, Brooks Brothers tie, Briefcase c/o Korchmar, Shoes c/o Allen Edmonds

A trench coat always looks great paired with a suit. For me, it’s an archetypal business look complete with a bit of old Hollywood style and sophistication. Never a bad choice.

2. Business Casual

| WEARING | Burberry Brit trench coat, J.Crew blazer and jeans, Al Bazar shirt, Gitman Bros. tie, Filson briefcase, Boots c/o Allen Edmonds

For business/sharp casual outfits, a shorter trench is a good option. It’s less formal than the classic version and is a little bit easier to style in a variety of settings. A great option for a day at the office followed by a happy hour drinks date.

3. Weekend Ready

| WEARING | Trench coat c/o Lands’ End, Levi’s sweatshirt and jeans, Common Projects sneakers

Trench coats aren’t just for the day-to-day work grind. Repurpose it for a casual weekend outing for some edgy high/low style.

DON’T MISS: How to belt a trench coat.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post Trench Coat Style: 3 Ways to Wear It first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A Last Word cocktail variation that’s every bit as classic as the classic.

There’s a general rule that if something is a classic, you don’t mess with it. There’s a reason it’s called a classic, after all. However, in the realm of cocktails, which is governed by proportions, there is always the possibility for classic formulas to be given interesting variants by simply tweaking the spirits.

Nowhere are the possibilities as endless as they are in the equal-parts cocktail kingdom. How many fantastic variations on the venerable Negroni or Old Fashioned have you had?

Other than the Negroni, one of my favorite equal-parts cocktails is the Last Word – gin, green Chartreuse, maraschino and lime juice. And the Naked and Famous cocktail from Death and Co. in New York City’s East Village is more than a worthy variation.

Naked and Famous Recipe

.75 oz. Mezcal
.75 oz. Yellow Chartreuse
.75 oz. Aperol
.75 oz. Lime Juice

Combine the mezcal, Yellow Chartreuse, Aperol, and lime juice in a mixing glass. Shake with ice and strain into a chilled coupe.

Other than the Chartreuse and the proportions, the taste of the Naked and Famous is much different than the classic that inspired it. In fact, if it weren’t for the Chartreuse, I’d wager that we couldn’t be calling this a Last Word variation.

The mezcal lends a smoky flavor, as it has been known to do, while the Aperol adds a touch of grapefruit bitter, where you’d usually taste the unmistakable brand of sweetness of the maraschino.

STILL THIRSTY? Sidle up to the HSS bar for another round.

This recipe comes from the Death & Co. cocktail book, which is a great one to add to your library of bar books, if you’re into that sort of thing.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Robin West.

The post Naked and Famous: We’ll Drink to That! first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Style mistakes are sometimes inevitable but usually avoidable. How though?

This week’s show is all about mistakes. Style mistakes, to be exact. We’ve all made them and they can be embarrassing and regretful, to say the least. Especially if there are photos…

In this episode of That’s It, I describe and discuss one of my worst and least favorite outfits on HSS and reveal the reasons we are sometimes driven to make poor style decisions.

Plus, advice on how to stop yourself before you do. Because what good would identifying a problem be without proposing a solution?

Assignment: Share your worst style moment with everyone in the comments.

Hey, I broke the ice. Describe it in great detail, upload a picture if you have one. And think – really think – about what led you to make this mistake and then share that insight with everyone. There’s no shame. This a community/safe zone and we can all learn from each other.

Thanks for listening.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

That’s It is edited by Mack McLaughlin.

The post That’s It: Episode 5, Mistakes first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Italian style at the office? You can do it!

Why are Italian guys so stylish? It’s a question we’ve posed to our resident Italian guy in the past. There’s always a little something that we can’t quite put our finger on, but there are some simple style moves you can make to add some Italian style to your own personal style.

Here are four easy ways to infuse an office look with a little Italian flair.

Reader prerequisite for this post: refresh yourself on the the look from Monday. It’s what I’d call classic American workwear. Today’s look is built on the exact same foundation, with just the following four Italian-style tweaks.

| WEARING | Al Bazar blazer and shirt, J.Crew pants, Gitman Bros. tie, Rolex Datejust watch, Tatesossian and Cantini MC Firenze bracelets, Suitsupply shoes | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

1. Double-breasted blazer. Know where it came from? Well, it wasn’t Italy. So it’s interesting that the style has become something of an Italian style marker.

2. Spread collar shirt. If the button-down collar is uniquely American in its style connotations, then an extreme spread collar shirt is unabashedly Italian.

3. Wrist game. I’ve always felt that when it works with an outfit, adding a couple bracelets projects a certain masculine confidence, which is something I’d consider a hallmark of Italian style. You don’t have to get as elaborate as my friend Giampaolo, but if you’ve got the hueveos, then why not?

4. Double monk strap shoes. In the footwear realm, there’s nothing more rakish or Italian than a pair of double monks. Get them in suede and seal the deal.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Spring Workwear, Italian Flair first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

What denim-related topics do you want to see covered on HSS this month?

In a world where it seems like we are bombarded with #NationalWhateverDays just about every day of the week, we thought we’d try something new editorially-speaking on HSS and proclaim April to be Denim Month.

What does this mean?

Well, for one, during denim-themed April we’re planning a number of denim-themed articles. So look for denim-themed contributions to the Style Defined series, The Guide, advice section (you know there are posts there that don’t show up in the main feed, right?), as well as in the usual style editorial.

| GOOD QUESTION | How many pairs of jeans should you own? We’ve already weighed in on that topic.

Is everything we post going to be about denim?

Absolutely not. That’d be pretty boring. (Or extremely informative!) No, we’ll continue to publish regularly about other relevant topics as well. Identifying a month-long subject to focus on seemed like a fun editorial experiment. We’ll see how it goes. What do you think about the idea?

And then?

Here’s where you come in. This is your chance to let us know what denim-related topics you would like to see us cover this month. So chime in below with your requests!

GET INSPIRED: A plethora of denim jeans outfit ideas.

Happy Denim Month!

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Featured image via Jack Jones Blog. Jeans on chair photograph by Rob McIver Photo.

The post Welcome to Denim Month! first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Shake up your spring office style and trade the blazer for a denim jacket.

When you’re trying to decide what to wear to work tomorrow, remember that it’s April, which on HSS means it’s denim month. And while you could certainly opt for the in-between dress pant, why not swap the usual blazer for one of our favorite pieces of lightweight spring outerwear?

Here’s one way to work a denim jacket into your workweek style rotation.

A denim jacket (or “jean” jacket, if you prefer, though that always reminds me of middle school…) is one of those classic items that never goes out of style. A great layering piece during the fall and winter months, spring is the time to allow it to shine on its own.

| WEARING | Levi’s denim jacket, Suitsupply shirt and shoes, PT01 pants, Drake’s tie, Rolex Datejust watch | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Wear it in place of a blazer with a simple workweek outfit to add a little high/low edge to your style and some depth and texture. Works well towards the end of the week – maybe Friday? – if you’ve got a hot date right after work and want to look good but not too dressed up.

Pay tribute to spring with some seasonal colors and fabrics. A pink button-up shirt with a light beige textured silk tie is a great early spring combination.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post A “Blazer” with an Edge: The Denim Jacket first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Is it just us, or is the internet and the people on it getting more strange as each week passes? And no, only one of the below headlines happened on April Fool’s day.

We too are sad/bummed/worried about the changes to Instagram, but begging followers to #TurnMeOn is a huge turn off.

You can never have too many watches, and the Stefano Berner for The Rake watch strap is a classic and Paul Newman-ish way to update the watches you already have in rotation.

Which guy is more concerning: the guy who hijacked a plane to win back an ex, or the guy who creepily smiled while having his photo taken with him?

Tesla has finally created a car for the non-affluent. Do you think the masses are going to embrace it?

Best of April Fool’s jokes: A little sad that this “election insurance” was an April Fools’ joke, as it may come in handy. Gold star to them, Quilted Northern for the brand’s artisanal toilet paper, and H&M for their Mark Zuckerberg line of t-shirts and jeans. And a token throwback to ours from a couple years ago.

Need some inspiration on how to nail business casual? How about some inspiration for each day in April?

We’ve all seen it. That moment that you can see your dog questioning your sanity written all over his face.

We’re hoping that the person behind the State Department’s #springbreakingbadly tweets was an intern and not a middle-aged man.

If you have Taylor-hate like me, steer clear of this video featuring Taylor Swift rapping (and falling) to Drake. If you have love in your heart for her like Brian, watch away.

If you’re in NYC and want great cocktails, we recommend trying the newly opened Suffolk Arms.

Too much funny and not enough fashion? Want more gear? Tell us which stories you like best!

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Robin West
He Spoke Style

The post Reasons to Be Skeptical of #TurnMeOn first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Your one-stop Internet shop for a guide to suit alterations and tailoring.

Suit alterations are generally necessary for a perfect fit – let’s say nine-and-a-half times out of ten. But luckily, most suit alterations are usually quite simple. Plus, a little tailoring goes a long way.

We’ve written extensively about the benefits of tailoring, garment-specific tailoring and addressed tons of questions about different suit options, getting suits custom made and many different kinds of alterations on HSS.

Here, for the first time, we’ve rounded up all of our individual articles into a comprehensive, easy-access guide. So, here it is: The Complete HSS Guide to Suit Alterations and Tailoring.

Suit Jacket Alterations

Unless you’re extremely lucky with the fit of off the rack suit jackets or you get all of them made to measure, chances are you’re going to need some alterations. The good news is that when it comes to getting a suit jacket tailored, a little work goes a long way in terms dialing in fit.

Our suit jacket alterations and tailoring guide covers the most common alterations – jacket length, sleeve length, chest, shoulders and collar – discusses how each should fit the individual and whether or not each particular alteration is worth the cost.

Read more: The HSS Guide to Suit Jacket Alterations

Suit Pants Alterations

Getting your suit pants tailored – or any pants, jeans included, for that matter – is one of the easiest and inexpensive ways for any guy to instantly look more put together. Our guide covers the four main alterations you might consider – hem (or pant length), waist, taper (pant width) and rise – as well as whether or not each is worth the money.

Read more: The HSS Guide to Suit Pants Alterations

A Guide to Pant Breaks

Before getting your pants tailored, it’s best to read up on and understand the different types of pant lengths and pant breaks. There are many factors that go into choosing a proper pant length for you, including your age, height, weight and whether you consider your personal style more conservative or style-forward.

Our guide to pant breaks and proper pant length covers the four main types of pant breaks – no break, slight break, medium break and full break – and helps you decide which one will fit your personal style. It’s the perfect companion to our suit pants alterations guide.

Read more: The HSS Guide to Pant Breaks

Suit Vest Alterations

The suit vest, or waistcoat, is the most versatile part of any suit. It’s why I like to make my suits three-piece suits whenever possible. However, unlike a suit’s jacket or pants, there aren’t too many alterations that can be done to the waistcoat. However, the two alterations you might want to consider have a lot to do with how it should fit.

Read more: The HSS Guide to Suit Vest Alterations

Finding a Quality Tailor

Of course, before you get any kind of alterations done, it’s important to find a quality tailor. This can be a bit more difficult than it sounds. Where do you look? How do you know if a tailor is reputable? Or whether he or she will listen to you and understand your style vision v. pushing their own beliefs on tailoring?

Read more: The HSS Guide to Finding a Quality Tailor

A Guide to Tailoring Costs

If you’re going to get any suit alterations or tailoring done, it will cost money. However, it’s always money well spent. And in most cases, a little money spent on nailing the fit of something goes a long, long way towards making you look like a million bucks.

Not all alterations and tailoring services are cheap, however, and some may not even be worth it. Which are which? We’ve got a guide for that.

Read more: The HSS Alterations and Tailoring Price Guide

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post A Complete Guide to Suit Alterations first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

There is no better time than spring to give your closet some much needed attention. Whether you’re swapping out seasonal items or trying to purge, there are plenty of good reasons for a good closet cleaning. Here are some tips to help you out.

2 Reasons to Clean Out Your Closet

1. Make room. Unless you’ve got an extremely large walk-in closet, chances are that you don’t have room for your spring/summer and fall/winter stuff at the same time. I know I don’t. Taking the time to clean and organize your closet will definitely help with that.

2. Purge. Let’s face it, we all have clothing that has no business being in our closets or wardrobes or drawers anymore. And a spring closet cleaning is the perfect time to get rid of all of those items. How do you know what to get rid of? Ask yourself the three questions that follow.

3 Questions to Ask Yourself

A spring closet cleaning and re-organizing is a great time to get rid of all of those pieces you’ve been holding on to for no good reason except the ones you craft to justify it to yourself.

1. Does this fit? Let’s make this easy. If something is too big, just get rid of it. If it’s too small, you’ll have to gauge – and be honest – about whether you’ll fit into it at some point. If you think you will, go ahead and hang onto it. Otherwise, purge it.

2. Have I worn it in the last 12 months? This is the best method for deciding whether to keep something or get rid of it. If you haven’t worn it in the past 12 months, toss it because you’re not going to wear it again. I understand that this can be difficult, especially if there’s some type of sentimental attachment, but believe me, you’ll feel a lot better once you get rid of whatever garment that is.

3. Was it a trend purchase (i.e. not in style)? This kind of falls in line with the last questions. If it was purchased as a result of something being a trend, get rid of it. It’s not coming back. Period.

4 Options for Your Clothing

1. Store it. A good closet has a good rotation. And that usually consists of moving items in and out seasonally. I’m a fan of storing out of seasonal items in plastic bins and putting them under the bed until they’re needed.

2. Sell it. If you have some nice things – perhaps some things that don’t fit any more – and you have the time, open up an eBay shop or head to the local consignment store.

3. Donate it. This is my favorite. I recently moved apartment units and did a major closet purge in the process, despite the fact, mind you, that my new closet was much bigger. So if you head to the Baltimore Goodwill you might be able to snatch up some of my old stuff.

4. Trash it. Sometimes the garbage is the best place for old clothes. Holes in jeans, shoes that are scuffed beyond repair – there’s no turning back. Toss them and say goodbye.

Chime in below with your closet cleaning tips and strategies.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post Spring Cleaning: Closet Edition first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

In an age where premium denim has found its way beyond high fashion and heritage brands and can be found widely across the globe, it’d be a surprise if any menswear fan hadn’t heard of selvedge denim (or selvage, depending who you ask). That said, like so many buzzwords, it can be helpful to know just what that term refers to.

So what is selvedge denim?

The term is actually vaguely self-explanatory, especially once you expand the word to its original form: ‘self-edge.’ Yes, selvedge actually refers to the edges of the fabrics used in constructing those premium jeans.

Where most fabric is woven into wide swaths and then cut down to size, selvedge denim is actually woven to size. So instead of sliced up edges that are more prone to fraying, the edges of selvedge denim jeans are formed by looping weft threads back at the end of each row to create that ‘self-edge.’

Now, as I mentioned, a selvedge seam is theoretically less likely to fray over time, which does indicate a higher quality to some extent. However, many people will claim that difference to be negligible. That’s not to say that selvedge denim isn’t higher quality – but rather that the high quality doesn’t come from the selvedge seams themselves.

Instead, selvedge used to be a great indicator of quality due to the limited availability of the looms needed to make selvedge fabric. A brand wouldn’t have the equipment to create selvedge fabrics unless they were serious about the game.

The Toyoda Type-G Automatic Loom

These days, that’s all changed, and selvedge looms are far easier to come by. Whereas you used to have to spend in excess of $150 at a specialty store, you can now snag a pair at Uniqlo for closer to $50. And Uniqlo is far from the only affordable selvedge denim retailer out there.

It’s also worth noting that selvedge denim is not the same thing as raw denim.

While selvedge denim and raw denim do often come hand-in-hand, it’s become more and more of a possibility to purchase raw denim that isn’t selvedge – or selvedge denim that isn’t raw, but rather faded or washed. [Stay tuned for an in-depth look at raw denim. Ed.]

All that aside, there’s definitely something to be said, sartorially, for the crisp look of a selvedge ID – that characteristic stripe of a selvedge denim outseam – on an upturned cuff. It’s to the point now where brands are making shirts and other garments with selvedge finishing.

Despite the widespread availability of selvedge denim these days, it still suggests an appreciation for classic manufacturing and an attention to detail that’s worth being proud of.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

The post Style Defined: Selvedge Denim first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

If you write about stuff on the Internet, you are bound to piss someone off.

If there has been one thing I’ve learned from my over 10 years of writing on the Internet, it’s that you can’t please everyone.

No matter what the subject is, there are always going to be people who disagree with you or who think you just plain wrong and get really pissed off about it.

Sometimes it’s simply because it’s the Internet and people like to to pick fights. And sometimes it’s because people feel extremely strongly about a certain topic or issue.

I’ve run into both kinds of people throughout my blogging career, though there hasn’t been much of it to speak of during my time publishing He Spoke Style.

However, there is one topic that I write about on the site from time to time that has been exceptionally contentious. Disgusted comments. Angry emails. Vicious “I’m unfollowing you!” proclamations. You name it. So, in this week’s episode of the podcast, I wanted to take the opportunity to address my critics.

Thoughts on the topic? Chime in below.

Thanks, as always, for listening.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

That’s It is edited by Mack McLaughlin.

The post That’s It: Episode 6, Moderation first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Moving forward can we proclaim Casual Fridays to be Business Casual Fridays?

If there’s one thing that’s helped to erode the idea that dressing well matters, it’s the concept of Casual Fridays. Well, that and our old friend athleisure, though I would advance the notion that the rise of one is related to the other.

It will be a proud day when I never see another football jersey worn in an office. So, do me a solid: let’s make Casual Fridays, Business Casual Fridays.

Business casual, like sharp casual, is an extremely easy way to dress that always looks great. A couple tailored items, like a blazer and pants, are all it takes. No tie necessary.

| WEARING | Vintage Yves Saint Laurent blazer, Neiman Marcus shirt, PT01 pants, Rolex Datejust watch, Oliver Peoples sunglasses, Boots c/o Allen Edmonds | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

This is a no-brainer style of dressing for Fridays that begin at the office and transition to cocktails and/or dinner after work. Perfect for a date if you don’t have time to run home and change.

Spring is usually the time for brighter colors, but I still can’t get off the brown. If a color works well with your complexion, stick with it. There’s no rule that says you can’t wear earth tones when it gets warmer.

Speaking of getting warmer, that’s something that hasn’t been happening as quickly as some of us had expected. Bad news if you can’t wait to break out the linen. But good news if you’re a fan of leather dress boots.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Stay Tailored: Business Casual Friday first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Don’t want to start this week? Then let’s remember some things from last week.

This week taught us a few things, including the realization (hopefully) that when there is an app to remind men to be chivalrous, there is a deeper problem to fix, and Leo’s new romance is actually a bit more concerning than the rumors about the bear were.

Is it true that “we have come to a point in society where we are all taking too many photos and spending very little time looking at them”?

Chivalry isn’t may actually be dead.

A collaboration that promises to make renting suits or a tux a bit less painful. Though it’s always best to buy your own.

Can’t get to Cuba just yet? Take a trip to Little Havana in Miami.

Continuing the travel theme, nothing makes me want to travel more than a good best-in-class food round-up. Any of these one of your local favorites?

Now that the sun is out longer, here are seven sunglasses brands to consider. Brian just got a new pair from Garrett Leight x WANT Les Essentiels and they are definitely HSS-approved.

A denim month link throwback: an answer to the question of how many jeans do you actually need?

Leo’s obsession with models has gone a bit too far. Rule No. 1: if she can’t go to the bar with you…

A Montblanc that won’t break the bank (though still requires a decent withdrawal).

If you are anything like us and are always writing down notes, you’re really going to like this Moleskine Pen that digitizes every doodle.

Slightly NSFW: explaining a female’s climaxes through – what else? – science projects.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Robin West
He Spoke Style

The post 10 Things To Help You Deal with the Mondays first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice