from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

The Negroni is one of my all-time favorite cocktails. It’s classic. It’s Italian. It’s symmetrically perfect, both in terms of it’s ingredients and the interplay of its dry, sweet and bitter flavors.

Because of its simplicity – and perfection – the Negroni is one of those classic cocktails that allows for experimentation and variation. Indeed, there is a vast catalog of Negroni variations out there – I’ve even been to a bar that had on its menu no less than 12 versions of the venerable Negroni.

One of the most interesting and pleasing takes I’ve found comes from the Death and Co cocktail book and is known as the White Negroni.

White Negroni Recipe

1.5 oz. gin
.75 oz. Suze
.75 oz. Dolin Blanc

Combine the gin, Suze and vermouth in a mixing glass. Stir with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon peel.

The obvious hero of this drink is the peculiar and extremely interesting Suze – a French, not Italian, bitter liqueur made from gentian root. It’s intense and earthy and can very easily overpower any cocktail it comes in contact with.

If you prefer to make the White Negroni a little less bitter, I would recommend tweaking the recipe to 1 oz. vermouth and .5 oz. Suze.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Robin West.

The post A Classic Reimagined: The White Negroni first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

I’ve been thinking a lot about trends recently. Not necessarily what’s currently in or out – not being a trend-chaser myself, I don’t put a whole lot of thought and mental energy into that. But more about how trends evolve and shape both our individual and collective thinking about style. And I’ve been mulling over one question in particular:

Is J.Crew going to kill classic menswear?

In this week’s episode of That’s It, we dig into the ideas and psychology behind trends. How do trends start? What makes them disappear? And is the inclusion of a pretty serious sartorial item by a mass-market retailer a harbinger of the demise of the well-dressed modern gentleman?

Take a listen and chime in below with your thoughts. And be sure to subscribe to That’s It so you never miss an episode.

Thanks for listening and enjoy your weekend.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

That’s It is edited by Mack McLaughlin.

The post That’s It: Episode 3, Trending first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

With any suit you buy (or have made), you’ll want to get the most out of it you possibly can. Earlier this year, I had a new houndstooth suit made and have been exploring various ways to style it. Here are six ways to wear a houndstooth suit.

1. Three-Piece: Seasonally Dapper

| WEARING | QG Custom suit, Al Bazar shirt, Gitman Bros. tie, Briefcase c/o Maxwell Scott, Watch c/o Uniform Wares, Tateossian and Cantini MC Firenze bracelets, Shoes c/o Johnston & Murphy

There is never a bad time to wear a three-piece suit, but if you’re going to do it choose a seasonal fabric to show some serious style chops. A rich wool is perfect for the fall and winter months. A remember that a three-piece suit doesn’t necessarily need to be so formal. It’s easy to dress it down if you follow some of these tips.

2. Pants Separate: Power Moves

| WEARING | Daniele Alessandrini coat, Al Bazar blazer and shirt, QG Custom pants, Brooks Brothers tie, Beams Plus scarf, Rolex watch, Tateossian and Cantini MC Firenze bracelets, Shoes c/o Coach

Styling patterned pants can be a risky proposition. But as we’ve learned, the smaller the pattern, the easier it becomes. Nevertheless, a pair houndstooth pants is a bold sartorial move so why not play it up with a little Italian flair? Double-breasted blazer. Spread collar shirt. A pair of double monks. And topped off with a silk scarf. Ciao!

3. Two-Piece: Classic Business

| WEARING | QG Custom suit, Michael Andrews Bespoke shirt, Saks Fifth Avenue tie, Vintage silk scarf, Briefcase c/o Korchmar, Watch c/o Uniform Wares, Shoes c/o Paul Evans

Your go-to combination. Easy to style. Super versatile. Looks good any day at the office. Brown and burgundy were meant for each other. Coordinate – don’t match, please! – your accessories with your shoes for a look that’s polished and put together.

GO DEEPER: and learn the history of houndstooth.

4. Waistcoat Separate: Mixed Three-Piece Suit

| WEARING | J.Crew blazer, QG Custom waistcoat, Brooks Brothers Black Fleece shirt, Vintage Yves Saint Laurent pants, Watch c/o Uniform Wares, Tateossian and Cantini MC Firenze bracelets, Boots c/o Jack Erwin

I’ve said it time and time again, but it’s so important that it’s worth repeating: a waistcoat is the most versatile part of any suit. And if versatility is a key concern for you – as it should be – it’s always worth the extra expense you’ll incur by upgrading from a two- to three-piece suit.

It’s an easy way to upgrade any outfit with jeans and can really shine as part of a “mixed three-piece suit,” especially in an classic and elegant pattern.

5. Jacket Separate: Business Casual

| WEARING | QG Custom blazer, Michael Andrews Bespoke shirt, PT01 pants, Brooks Brothers tie, Drake’s pocket square, Tateossian, Cantini MC Firenze and vintage bracelets, Watch c/o Uniform Wares, Suitsupply shoes

When buying a suit with the hope of being able to wear each piece as a separate, the jacket is the one piece you’ll definitely want to be able to style alone. Especially if you’re going custom, be sure to consider things like lapels and pockets.

You can never go wrong with notch lapels, but a peak lapel adds a level of style sophistication. Patch pockets are a great way to ensure you’re able to style the jacket even more casual situations.

6. Waistcoat and Pants: Unexpected Elegance

Duffle coat c/o Tommy Hilfiger, QG Custom waistcoat and pants, Turtleneck c/o Ted Baker, Tateossian and Cantini MC Firenze bracelets, Boots c/o Tawny Goods

Underrated and underutilized, the waistcoat and trouser combo is on of the hidden gems of styling suit separates. There is an ease and elegance about it that is unmatched. Keep it even more unexpected by styling a turtleneck underneath the waistcoat instead of the predictable shirt and tie.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo.

The post 6 Ways To Wear a Houndstooth Suit first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

I realize that in all of the attention we’ve been paying recently to illustrating how to maximize a suit’s versatility, that I’ve somewhat neglected one of my all-time favorite styles of dressing.

With spring right around the corner, let’s take a look at how to manage the transition with a business casual look.

Spring is the time to transition your outerwear. Time to put away the heavy wools and break out the lightweight stuff. A classic burberry trench is one of my spring go-to’s whether for business, casual Friday, or a dapper weekend.

| WEARING | Burberry Brit trench coat, J.Crew blazer and jeans, Al Bazar shirt, Gitman Bros. tie, Filson briefcase, Boots c/o Allen Edmonds | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Never forget the power and versatility of that most essential of wardrobe essentials, slim dark denim. Like your other in-between dress pant, dark denim easily styles up with a blazer, while a knit tie helps keep it dressed up without an overabundance of formality.

Speaking of keeping ‘casual’ in business casual, nothing helps set the tone of a look than the briefcase you carry. A Filson briefcase is the perfect mix of smart, rugged and casual.

Discussions of whether J.Crew is going to kill classic menswear aside, they’ve really stepped up their denim game recently. I’ve been meaning to replace my A.P.C.s, which have really given their all for the past five years, and J.Crew’s new raw selvedge 484 fit reminds me a lot of them – minus needing to get them tailored beyond a hem.

Once the heat arrives, I know I won’t be wearing my Daltons much until next fall. That’s why I’m trying to get the most out of them right now.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

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from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

The method you use to cut a cigar is less important than how you cut a cigar.

Smoking a cigar is a ritual. It’s all about the process. And that process begins with knowing how to cut a cigar the right way.

Plus, the better the cigar you smoke – maybe you sprung for that Behike 52 when you were overseas? – the more attention you’re going to want to pay to making sure you’re giving it a proper cut, which equates to a better cigar smoking experience.

Here is the definitive HSS guide on how to cut a cigar.

Types of Cigar Caps

Before you cut a cigar, you need to know what you’re working with. There are two main kinds of cigar shapes: parejo and figurado.

A parejo is a cigar that has straight sides and a rounded cap. These are the most common cigar shapes you see out there and include sizes like the Corona, Robusto, Toro, Longsdale and Churchill.

The Oliva Serie V Melanio Figurado was Cigar Aficionado’s No. 1 cigar of 2014. A truly classic smoke.

A figurado refers to any kind of cigar with a non-standard shape. Most commonly we think of figurados having a pointed cap. Common figurados are the Torpedo, Belicoso, Pyramid and Diadema.

Methods for Cutting a Cigar

Three of the most common ways to cut a cigar. L-R: v-cutter, punch and a double-blade guillotine.

Guillotine. The double-blade guillotine is the most common method of cutting a cigar. The cut it delivers is referred to as a straight cut. You can buy them cheaply, but as with anything, you get what you pay for. A poor quality blade will do a literal hack job on your cigar and may even ruin the cap. It’s best to avoid cheaply made plastic and single-blade versions and spring for something a little more solid.

Punch. Unlike a guillotine cigar cutter, which slices off part of the cap, a punch makes about a 1/4″ circular hole in the end of the cap. A cigar punch is very small – the size of a bullet – and can be easier to carry (and lose).

V-Cutter. A v-cutter is one method you don’t see terribly often, but it’s a way to cut a cigar that some people prefer. This kind of cut will expose a lot more surface area of the cigar, therefore making it easier to draw smoke through cigar. One of the negative effects of a v-cut is that it can allow too much smoke through, making the cigar smoke too hot.

Other Methods. There are other ways of cutting a cigar other than the three methods listed above. You will also see special cigar cutting scissors and all manner of round cutters. In a pinch, you can use a sharp knife, a pen or pencil or even your teeth – though it’s best for the cigar and your smoking experience if you use a method listed above.

Which method should you use?

The method you use to cut your cigar is really a matter of personal preference. How you do it is really much more important.

Remember that the objective of any cut is to create a sufficient and smooth opening for smoking without destroying the integrity of the cigar. A proper cut will allow equal draw from the core and rim of the cigar.

How To Cut a Cigar: Straight Cut

The straight cut is my preferred cigar cutting method. It’s quick, easy, and always yields great results. Let’s talk about how to do a proper straight cut on both rounded and pointed cap cigars.

Rounded Cap.

First, examine the cap of the cigar. Look for the “shoulder” of the cigar, or the place where the rounded part of the cap starts to straighten out and flatten. This is where you want to make the cut.

Ideally, you will be cutting about 1/16th of an inch (or 2 millimeters) from the tip.

Put the cigar in your cutter and bring the blades so they are just touching the cigar. Next, cut the cap with swift motion. If you go too slow, you run the risk of ruining the cap as the blade may drag some of the tobacco as it cuts. Another reason to be sure you’re using a high quality blade and why double-bladed cutters are superior.

A proper straight cut on a rounded cap cigar.

Pointed Cap.

The 1/16th of an inch/2 millimeter rule does not apply when cutting a cigar with a pointed cap. The objective here is to remove enough of the cap to expose about the same surface area of the cigar that you would with a straight cut on a cigar with a rounded cap.

How far down the cigar cap you cut will depend on the cigar itself. There’s really no hard and fast rule. Just try to expose enough of the filler tobacco to get an easy draw.

How To Cut a Cigar: Punch

To use a cigar punch, hold the bladed end of the punch against the cap of the cigar. Apply light pressure as you rotate the cigar back and forth. Once the blade pierces the cap, continue rotating and drive the blade a little further into the cigar.

When you remove the punch, the portion of the cap you cut out will be inside the punch. Be careful not to apply too much pressure when punching a cigar as you run the risk of unraveling the cap.

How To Cut a Cigar: V-Cut

A v-cutter is used almost exactly like a guillotine. The biggest consideration when using one is to avoid creating such a large divot in the cigar that it begins to smoke hot.

DON’T MISS: The HSS Guide to Cigar Essentials

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo. Shot on location at The QG Office Lounge in Baltimore, MD.

The post Cigar 101: How To Cut a Cigar first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Of all the classic menswear fabrics, chambray is a favorite of many, and for good reason.

The origins of chambray fabric are expectedly rather vague – the weaving process is pretty darn generic, and the color choices have been typical and widely used since textiles were first developed.

Some attribute the specific creation to a Jean-Baptiste Cambray, but this history is widely refuted and has no real verified standing. That said, the name itself is likely derived from the term ‘Cambric,’ which refers to the French town of Cambrai, where some of the earlier plain-weave workwear fabrics were heavily produced.

The versatility of a chambray shirt on full display – it tempers the formality of a blazer for a casual and cool look.

So what exactly is chambray? As mentioned, it has a close relationship to denim, largely in what one could call their defining characteristic – the use of a white horizontal thread in the weave of the fabric (also known as the weft, while the vertical thread is called a warp).

The real beauty of this process shows as the fabrics age and the white weft becomes more and more visible, lending to the beautiful fades so revered by denim-heads and chambray enthusiasts. Even in a brand new piece, the contrasting threads offer a nice texture and visual depth over the relatively flat appearance of poplin.

EXPLORE: What’s the difference between denim and chambray?

In the modern era, chambray has seen a proliferation both in appearance and application. Primarily woven in indigo initially, you can now find the fabric in any variety of colors – some will even classify fabrics with colored weft threads (as opposed to white) as chambray, just so long as the warp and weft are two different colors.

A classic navy blazer adds some refinement to a chambray shirt.

These days, while you can always find a classic blue chambray shirt, it’s just as easy to find them in reds and greens and greys, or even woven patterns.

Additionally, though chambray has traditionally been a more casual fabric, the advantage of its aforementioned versatility has encouraged more and more designers to start incorporating the unique textile into formalwear.

While heavy denim is hard to dress up into a formal trouser, a crisp, lightweight chambray will do the trick just fine. And it’s now used for everything from dress shirts to ties to full suits.

Rugged and casual, chambray is perfect for everyday style.

As such, if you want chambray in your life, the options are endless, and you’re sure to find something up your alley, whether it’s rugged and casual or sharp and refined.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

Menswear history buff? Read more of our Style Defined series and explore the Glossary.

Photography by Rob McIver Photo.

The post Style Defined: Chambray first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Continuing our popular How To Pack It series with: dress pants. And just a quick note. Although I’m using the term “dress pants” for this post, the way we’re showing you how to fold dress pants to pack in a suitcase (or carry-on) can be applied to jeans, chinos, or any other kind of trousers you can think of!

Use the slideshow for our step-by-step guide and read on for answers to some commonly asked questions.

| FIVE SIMPLE STEPS | There’s really not much to it. Browse the slideshow for the full play by play. | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Why not fold in quarters instead of thirds? Won’t it save space?

Good question. You certainly can fold in quarters instead of thirds, but by adding an extra fold in there, you’re adding an extra crease to remove once you get to your destination.

Is it possible to pack in such a way so the pants don’t wrinkle?

As we mentioned before, you can attempt to lessen the amount of wrinkling by placing the garment in a sealable plastic bag after folding it. However, it’s still going to require some ironing/steaming once you get to your destination. I recommend investing in a travel steamer.

How long does it take fold with this method?

Less than a minute.

I need to pack shirts and a blazer too – how do I do that?

We’ve got a guides! And here they are: How to Fold a Blazer and How to Fold a Dress Shirt.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post How To Pack It: Dress Pants first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Once a dominating spirit in the United States, Irish whiskey’s popularity faded after prohibition. Only in the last decade or so has it started to gain momentum again – some even say it is the fastest growing category on the market – and now, it has quickly become the object of many a whiskey aficionado’s pursuit.

With St. Patrick’s day just around the corner, we thought we’d share five of our favorite Irish whiskies.

1. Jameson Irish Whiskey

Jameson is a true icon of Irish whiskey. A light and easy spirit with some honey and zest to it. Perfect for cocktails or a classic Irish coffee. Deserving of a permanent place in the liquor cabinet.

Price: $24.99

2. Jameson Black Barrel Select Reserve

Jameson’s Black Barrel Select Reserve is well worth the up-charge from regular Jameson. It has a nice body with a more substantial presence on the palate. Select Reserve shows a family resemblance to Jameson but with more complexity and intrigue, likely due to the fact that it is aged twice as long. Sip this one neat or on the rocks.

Price: $34.99

3. Powers Gold Label Irish Whiskey

Powers Gold Label is peppery and sweet with a definite honey flavor at its core that will draw you in. A perfect sipper or extremely well-suited for a hot toddy. Powers is a high quality, handcrafted blended Irish whiskey.

Price: $29.99

4. Bushmill’s 10 Year Old Single Malt

Bourbon and Oloroso cask finishing imparts balanced and complex flavors that lean toward the sweet side in Bushmill’s 10 Year Old Single Malt. A slightly dry finish with lingering sherry cask mustiness. An excellent deal for the complexity it offers.

Price: $39.99

5. Redbreast 12 Year Old

Redbreast is a very refined single pot still Irish whiskey. 12 years of aging gives it a medium and slightly oily body. Brazil nut and orange peel interact delicately on the palate. Want to try one of the best Irish whiskies out there? This is the one.

Price: $66.99

Your favorite Irish whiskey not on the list? Chime in below with a recommendation.

DON’T MISS: The 5 Best Whiskies Under $30

Thanks for reading. And Sláinte!

Stylishly Yours,

Chris Sarangoulis
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo.

The post Sláinte! 5 Irish Whiskies to Drink Now first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

This week on That’s It we’re talking politics! Sort of. One of things the Presidential primaries have brought to the fore has been the idea, and lure, of the outsider.

Being an outsider isn’t always easy – if you are one, you know – and considerations of when and how much to compromise your beliefs has a powerful affect on your work life, relationships and everything in between. So, how do you maintain balance and integrity?

Take a listen and chime in below with your thoughts. And be sure to subscribe to That’s It so you never miss an episode.

Thanks for listening.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

That’s It is edited by Mack McLaughlin.

The post That’s It: Episode 4, Outsiders first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

If you’ve listened to our latest podcast episode, you know that I’m currently traveling. Although I travel frequently, leaving home never gets easier. And this time, in particular, was a little more difficult than in the past, having just moved into a new apartment that actually feels like home for the first time in over a year and a half.

I’ve posted a few images of the new pad on Instagram, but I thought it was time I give you a little bit of a peek on the blog.

Now, I have lived in a number of cool apartments over the years, but I have to say that this one is, hands-down, the coolest. From the two cathedral windows to the open floor plan to the exposed brick, private balcony, loft and walk-in closet, it’s got everything you could want.

| WEARING | J.Crew navy cardigan and jeans, Brooks Brothers Black Fleece shirt, Rolex watch, To Boot New York loafers | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Other than my trusty Eames chair and a few choice pieces from West Elm, like this floor lamp I’ve always wanted, it’s currently furnished pretty sparsely. And with no artwork on the walls, the place has a particularly minimalist/not-quite-lived-in vibe. So not too much to show right now other than the main living area.

Once Robin moves in, I expect we’ll be spending some time putting the finishing touches on the place as well as hanging our artwork. And once it’s in a more put-together state, I promise we’ll share more photos of the whole space.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post HSS Mini Apartment Tour first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

While Brian is going to continue talking about relevant topics on the podcast each week, we thought it was a good time to bring back the weekly link roundup. The world is a big, interesting and sometimes strange place, and because we know you’ve probably got enough on your plate, we want to do our part to highlight a few of all of those things for you.

Did you hear Ariana Grande swear during her SNL monologue? How about her impressions of Celine Dion, Whitney Houston, Rihanna, Shakira, and Britney Spears?

“Miles Ahead” looks to highlight not just Miles Davis’ contribution to the Jazz industry, but his adaptive style through the decades.

Next time you complain about how slow the internet is, be thankful it’s not 1984.

A continued conversation about breaking up in the age of connectivity. Is this just karma for over sharing our relationships and statuses online? “It’s complicated” is really an understatement.

Speaking of over-sharing, SXSW is underway and we’re a bit surprised to see who was the opening keynote to challenge the tech industry.

Is J.Crew doomed to slowly fall of the fashion grid? This is a topic we’ve been wondering about too.

Elmo, aka “Layzie Bone,” appears in a rap video.

PSA: don’t download Trump chrome extensions and publish articles.

There is a new buzzword for people looking to break the mold in pop culture, and they will be known as “style-disrupters.” Seems like a weird opening to compare them to kale…

Are Canadians really so nice that they didn’t know there would be gender disparity in a survey about oral sex?

Did we miss anything from last week? Chime in below and share your favorite stories with us.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Robin West
He Spoke Style

The post Don’t Bleep This Out first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A dark navy suit is just as formal as a black suit, but with much greater versatility.

Fact 1: Every man should have a navy suit in his wardrobe.

Fact 2: There are lots of gradations within the navy color spectrum.

A dark navy suit is one way to go and has plenty of merits.

A lot of guys make the mistake of buying a black suit as their first suit. The reason is that they probably need a suit for some type of formal-ish event, like a wedding, evening cocktail party, or special occasion such as a graduation or anniversary dinner.

| WEARING | Reiss coat, Ermengildo Zegna suit and shirt, J.Crew tie, Rolex watch, Cole Haan shoes | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

And a black suit can definitely get you through any of those events. The problem is, now you’ve got a suit you can only wear for a very limited number of situations. Honestly, if you’re going to spend the money, a much better choice is a dark navy suit. It’s got all the formality of a black suit, but is infinitely more versatile.

DON’T MISS: This suit styled with a more “classic banker” look.

Make a statement with subtlety. You don’t need a red tie for a for a suit to be a power suit. A charcoal grey tie imparts a different kind of seriousness. Perfect for the guy who has powerful ideas and opinions but doesn’t need to be the loudest person in the room to influence people.

The question of what shoes to wear with a dark navy suit is one that always comes up. The quick answer is that they should be dark – obviously, and complement the other elements, like your tie and pocket square, that you’re styling with your suit.

I always like to style mine with grey, so a pair of classic black cap toes work perfectly. If you’re working in richer, earthy tones dark brown, burgundy, or oxblood would do the trick.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post The Unstoppable Navy Suit first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A quality leather duffle bag is a serious investment. And you will get what you pay for. The benefit of investing in a high-quality bag is that it will last longer and take on an amazing patina as it ages.

As with anything you invest in, you’ll want it to last so it’s important to know how to take care of it. Aside from caring for the leather, which we’ll cover in a subsequent post, the biggest consideration is making sure it keeps its shape when it’s not in use.

Here are a couple tips for storing a leather duffle bag.

| FULL OF HOT AIR | A beach ball is a great way to help your leather duffle bag keep its shape. | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Robin West

Stuff it with something. For a leather duffle bag to keep its shape when it’s not in use and/or being stored, it needs to have something inside of it. My honest to goodness favorite thing to use is a small beach ball.

I like the beach ball method because it only requires one of them, it’s light, fills up a lot of space inside and is more or less easily adjusted by inflating more or letting air out. Plus, unlike blankets or extra clothes (see below), chances are you’re not going to be needing the beach ball that often so it’s okay for it to be packed away.

In lieu of a beach ball, you can always use extra blankets, sweaters, pillows, or anything else large, bulky and lightweight.

Use a dust bag. When you’re ready to put your leather duffle bag away, it’s best to store it in a dust bag. Many quality bags will come with their own dust bag, but if they don’t you can order one online or improvise with a blanket.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Protect Your Investment: Storing a Leather Duffle Bag first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A rolling carry-on suitcase is a great choice for the stylish and savvy business traveler.

There are many different kinds of luggage and travel bags for men. And the bag you choose depends on many things, including the type of trip, the duration of the trip and your method of travel.

However, no matter what bag you choose, it should be extremely functional, versatile and – if you’re a gentleman of style – stylish.

Over the next few weeks, we’ll be highlighting some of our favorite types of luggage and travel bags. First up: the rolling carry-on suitcase.

A rolling carry-on suitcase is a great choice for the savvy business traveler who’s always on the go, doesn’t have time to check a bag and needs a lightweight, easy to maneuver and elegant luggage solution.

Pros: Fits more than it looks like it will; no need to check baggage for a quick trip; no matter how heavy, it feels extremely light as you zip through the airport terminal or train station.

Cons: Difficult to roll across carpet – most annoying when your hotel room is at the end of a long, carpeted hall; not particularly easy to access if you need to get something out of it during the travel portion of a trip.

| WEARING | Z Zegna suit, Al Bazar shirt, Brooks Brothers tie, Rolex Datejust watch, Cole Haan shoes | LUGGAGE | Rimowa Salsa Deluxe Cabin Multiwheel | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Perfect For: Business travel via plane or train, two to three-day trips, running through airport terminals to catch a flight.

Our Pick: Rimowa Salsa Deluxe Cabin Multiwheel

The Cabin Multiwheel was not my first Rimowa suitcase – I’ve been using the larger Topas Multiwheel as my regular suitcase for about two years now (i.e. it’s starting to take on some character). I’m a big fan of the quality, style and feel of Rimowa products.

There are certainly other rolling carry-on options out there, but if you’ve become enamored with the look of Rimowa, I recommend spending a few extra bucks for a version with the telescopic handle. It’s a simple, but big comfort convenience you’ll appreciate.

DON’T MISS: The HSS Guides to Packing a Blazer, Dress Shirt and Pants in a suitcase or carry-on.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Savvy Travel: The Rolling Carry-On first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

An Old Fashioned cocktail is perfectly simple and simply perfect.

In the realm of classic cocktails, the venerable Old Fashioned stands alone. Simple – it only requires a few ingredients – slightly sweet and absurdly easy to make, it’s a true gentleman’s drink. Here’s how we make ours here at HSS.

Old Fashioned Cocktail Recipe

2 oz. Bourbon
2 dashes Angostura bitters
Sugar cube

Place a sugar cube in an Old Fashioned glass. Soak with the bitters. Muddle until the sugar dissolves. Add the bourbon and stir a bit to mix. Add a large ice cube and stir for 15-20 seconds. Garnish with an orange peel.

I usually build my drinks in a mixing glass, but I like to make my Old Fashioned in the glass I’m drinking it in.

What’s the history of the Old Fashioned?

We’re going to defer to David Wondrich on this one. If you are seriously into cocktails, Imbibe is a must-read.

Can I use rye instead of bourbon?

Absolutely. The spirit you choose is completely dependent on your preference and I’m not going to be the elitist who turns my nose up and says you’re wrong if you don’t make yours in such and such a way. This is conceivably why you like us here at HSS…

However, if you do use rye, I recommend garnishing with a lemon peel instead of an orange peel. Why? Lemon plays better with rye and orange plays better with bourbon.

When Don Draper made an Old Fashioned in Mad Men, he muddled fruit too. Is that wrong?

If you happen to be a cocktail purist, then yes, that was wrong. But, again, there are many ways to make an Old Fashioned. If a man wants his to be sweeter, then he should muddle fruit – I like an orange wedge and a maraschino cherry – dammit.

What are some other good Old Fashioned variations?

Man, there are so many! And the beautiful thing is that every bartender has his or her own take. If there happens to be an Old Fashioned variation on any reputable classic/craft cocktail menu, you’d better believe I’m going to give it a try. A couple have been featured on the site:

A SPICY VARIATION: The Oaxacan Old Fashioned

A SMOKY VARIATION: The Hickory Old Fashioned

If you’re a cocktail buff, chances are you’ve got your own take on the Old Fashioned. So, do us a solid and chime in below with your favorite way to make this classic.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Robin West

The post A Good Old Fashioned Old Fashioned first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

The practice of wearing a boutonniere is one that has come and gone, but has never truly disappeared since it’s introduction.

Widely believed to have begun as a way of identifying oneself and one’s comrades on the field of battle, different flowers supposedly indicated different allegiances. This was especially important in the many civil wars of England, when both sides would have sounded and looked quite similar.

As a fashion move, boutonnieres didn’t hit the scene until the early 19th century – which makes sense, as that coincides with the introduction of lapelled jackets (and it’s kind of hard to have the former without the latter).

There is a story that Prince Albert invented the first lapel buttonhole in order to hold the flowers his bride-to-be (Queen Victoria) gave him on his wedding day, but this has been refuted – largely by the lack of lapels or boutonnieres in his wedding-day portrait.

Alternatively, it makes more historical sense that the lapel buttonhole was a result of high-collared jackets being worn with the top few buttons open. Some jackets are still made with a button opposite the boutonniere hole and can be closed to protect your neck and throat from the weather.

Regardless, flowers were already an important part of special occasions, both to symbolically bring good luck and to physically ward off the unfortunate smells that were hard to avoid in those times, and the boutonniere became yet another way to bring floral decor into the situation.

Since then, there were times when wearing a boutonniere became widely commonplace with any suited or semi-formal attire – notably around the same time that it was widely commonplace for men to wear suits at all times (think early-1900s, Boardwalk Empire times).

These days, the practice has once again become reserved for special occasions. To the sartorially unfamiliar, the idea may bring to mind cheesy high school teenagers headed to their senior prom, but a quality florist can put together something far more subtle and classy to fit the moment, whether it be a wedding, a funeral, or anything in between.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

The post Style Defined: The Boutonniere first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Weekends are generally about keeping it casual. But if you’ve got a brunch date, you’ll want to look put-together, but not overdressed. What do you do? Stick with a few simple and casual basics.

Here’s some inspiration for a casual spring brunch date.

| WEARING | Billy Reid suede jacket, Levi’s sweatshirt, Neiman Marcus shirt, J.Crew jeans, Rolex Datejust watch, To Boot New York loafers | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Instead of a crewneck or cardigan sweater, pull on a classic heather grey athletic sweatshirt over a favorite button-up. It’s a more casual, laid-back and confidently cool approach to layering that gives off a not-too-fussy vibe.

Prediction: you’re going to see a lot of suede this spring, especially in the form of jackets. There’s never a bad time for a suede jacket – except maybe in the snow or rain – and the spring transition is the perfect time to move it to the front of the coat closet after putting it away since the fall.

And speaking of suede – suede shoes for spring? You bet. Add this look to the scrapbook from our very first style editorial that I mentioned in Episode 1 of That’s It.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Transition Basics: Weekend Brunch Date first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Still in a haze from indulging in too much green beer or Irish whiskey? Don’t worry, this is a judgement-free zone. You may have, however, missed all the things last week had to offer. Let’s break it down:

Facebook is slowly ushering in the death of Instagram. They say users aren’t seeing content and the update “is about is making sure that the 30% you do see is the best 30% possible.” Translation: we are going to force brands to pay to promote content and ruin the platform for the end user.

If you have too many cords at your desk & never know which belongs to what, these simple stickers help you figure out where all your gadgets are plugged in. #FirstWorldProblems?

ICYMI, Brian was interviewed by The Idle Man this week AND began his gig as contributing writer to the Robb Report. Cheers!

If you’re anything like the men here at HSS, you’ll appreciate all of The New York Times articles about the watch industry right now:

– An upcoming auction at Christie’s that is going to make one man the proud owner of a 1967 Daytona Cosmograph. (I think I just heard Brian pass out).

– Chanel Introduces it’s first watch for men, the Monsieur de Chanel, which actually got a rave review from Mr. Ben Clymer.

– How smart is it for traditional watch companies to go smart and should brands create new styles because consumers demand it?

– You already know how we feel about Apple’s version.

– Swiss watchmaker Omega reveals six new Master Chronometer movements.

– A new watchmaker who’s family history in the craft dates back to World War II.

The internet freaks out over a disappearing woman and can’t figure out how many girls are in this photo.

It’s hard to pick just one, but not removing the stitching on a vent may be the worst of all “the new suit blunders.”

Article throwback: Trench season is upon us, so how are you going to belt yours?

Yes, there are advertising agencies that are still like Mad Men and no, that’s not a compliment.

Anything we missed? Share your favorite links from last week in the comments!

Stylishly Yours,

Robin West
He Spoke Style

Photograph via iHeart the Street Art.

The post Watch Out! Instagram Is Slowly Going to Die first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A blue pinstripe suit is your deal-making power suit: wear it with confidence.

As I mentioned last week, you don’t need a red tie to make a power suit. Sometimes that can be conveyed with subtlety. Sometimes you don’t even need a tie. And sometimes, the suit can say it all by itself. And that’s certainly the case with a blue pinstripe suit.

| WEARING | Knot Standard suit, Brooks Brothers shirt and suspenders, Saks Fifth Avenue tie, Rolex Datejust watch, Shoes c/o Allen Edmonds | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Building a smart suit wardrobe takes some thought and planning, especially if you’re just getting started. If you see five suits in your future, buy the pinstripe suit fourth or fifth, after your basic navy, grey, and subtle plaid. Even if you have a job where wearing one would be appropriate, hold off and stock up on more versatile options first.

HISTORY BUFF? Learn about the history of pinstripes.

What’s a good shirt and tie combination with a blue pinstripe suit? Like a navy suit, a blue pinstripe suit will pair well with most other colors. But because of its “businesslike” vibe, I can see how it would be hard to break away from traditional (i.e. safe) pairings.

Try experimenting with a contrast collar shirt – keeping with the business tone – and deep, rich colors for the tie, like burgundy. Don’t forget to think seasonally. In the summer, a lighter tie is more than appropriate.

What color shoes do you wear with a blue pinstripe suit? Like I mentioned with a dark navy suit – it all depends on how you style the shirt and tie combination. However, pinstripes definitely give off more of an “all business” look, so keeping it in that formal ballpark is generally the way I go.

Classic black wingtips. Very dark brown or deep burgundy cap toes. In the summer, I might go lighter with both the shirt/tie combo and shoe choice.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post The Original Power Suit first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Lighting a cigar properly is the third step in the cigar smoking ritual.

As we continue our Cigar 101 series, it’s worth reiterating that there is a ritual aspect to smoking a cigar – or, at least, the steps one takes to get to the cigar smoking stage. And as with all rituals, there is a specific process you need to follow.

The first step is to choose a cigar. Next, is cutting the cigar. And after that, lighting the cigar, which is what we’re covering here.

Methods for Lighting a Cigar

Just like cutting a cigar, there are a few methods for lighting a cigar. Honestly, any kind of fire will do, but each kind of fire has its own unique traits. Here are several cigar lighting methods.

Match. Inexpensive and always around somewhere. If you’re going to light your cigar with a match, make sure it’s a longer match – if you use a short one, you’ll burn through a few – and that there is no kind of coating on the wood, which can adversely affect the cigar’s taste.

Matches work well indoors in cigar lounges, but can be frustrating to use outside, where the slightest gust of wind will interrupt your cigar lighting groove.

Torch Lighter. If you primarily do your cigar smoking outdoors, forget matches altogether and consider a torch lighter. Most are built to withstand wind gusts and will heat the foot of the cigar up extremely fast. You can find a solid performing torch lighter in the $10-20 range. I use an S.T. Dupont Slim 7.

Gas Lighter. Like a match in that it will not perform well in a windy environment. Some will tell you never to light a cigar with a gas lighter because the butane will adversely affect the taste of the tobacco. Personally, I’ve not experienced that and I like my S.T. Dupont Ligne 2 way too much to be swayed by that thinking.

Cedar Strip. For the cigar purist, a cedar strip is the ONLY way to light a cigar properly. No chemicals, no sulfur, no butane. All natural. If you’re in an environment where using a cedar strip is possible, by all means, do so. It’s old fashioned, but really helps you enjoy and appreciate the entire process.

Which method should you use?

How you choose to light a cigar is dependent on where you’re smoking – indoors or outdoors? – as well as your own personal preference. I’ve personally used all of the methods listed above in a variety of situations.

How To Light a Cigar

Now let’s go over the five steps for lighting a cigar.

1. Start your fire. Strike a match. Fire up your lighter. Or get your cedar strip burning.

2. Toast the foot. Perhaps the most important step of lighting a cigar. The goal here is to get the foot of the cigar hot but not actually lit. When done properly, the end of the cigar will look like it’s “toasted” – black but, again, not lit.

As you toast the foot of a cigar, do not let the flame actually touch the tobacco. Hold the flame below the foot of the cigar and let the heat travel up. Yes, this takes a bit longer, but is the only way to ensure you’ve toasted the foot properly. Lighting and smoking a cigar is not a race.

3. Take three long draws. I picked up the three puffs tip from my good friend Robert Seise of Davidoff. If you’ve toasted the foot of the cigar properly, three long draws is all you need to ensure the perfect light.

4. Check for an even light by blowing on the foot. If you watch the Cigar Aficionado Top 25 videos, you see Mott and Savona do this all the time. Gently blowing on the foot allows you to see if you’ve got the cigar lit evenly. I usually elide this step with the exhale of my third puff.

If, by chance, your cigar isn’t lit evenly yet, go ahead and add a little more heat to the portion that isn’t quite lit. Puff gently, recheck, and then move on to Step 5.

5. Enjoy your smoke. Enough said.

What if a cigar burns unevenly?

It’s common for a cigar to burn unevenly. This can be a result of a variety of things, including how moist (or dry) the cigar is, how the cigar is rolled, or the way the wind (or ceiling fan) is blowing.

If this happens, don’t worry. You can usually get a cigar back burning evenly by a small touch up with your flame where the wrapper is not burning.

In more extremely cases, a cigar will burn only on the top, while the bottom remains completely unlit. This is referred to as canoeing. Canoeing occurs if you’ve not lit the cigar properly, if you let an uneven burn get out of hand, or if you just have a bad cigar.

DON’T MISS: The HSS Guide to Cigar Essentials

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo. Shot on location at The QG Office Lounge in Baltimore, Maryland.

The post Cigar 101: How To Light a Cigar first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice