from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

One of themes I keep coming back to is that you don’t have to change much for an outfit to have a completely different look. Among the New Year’s style resolutions that I’ve taken to heart is keeping it classic and basic.

Now, that’s not to say it’s all suit and tie all the time – I’ve been known to throw a turtleneck into the mix more than my fair share of times this year.

Two things happen when you decide to work within a specific set of guidelines – in this case, a foundation of basic menswear staples. First, getting dressed in the morning becomes a lot easier.

Not quite as easy as if you were wearing the same thing every day, but simple enough in that you’ve got a basic formula – blazer, shirt and pants.

And when that happens – when you create a solid foundation – it allows you to explore the world of details to create something more unique. Let’s talk about a couple ways to do that.

| WEARING | Montezemolo coat, Corneliani turtleneck, PT01 pants, Brioni scarf, Watch c/o Uniform Wares, Manuel Bozzi bracelet, Oliver Peoples glasses, Shoes c/o Paul Evans | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Despite the fact that it’s been unseasonably warm this past week and Punxsutawney Phil didn’t see his shadow, it’s still winter and probably will still be winter for another month or so. That means there’s still time for a good scarf.

While scarves are meant to keep you warm, they also serve an aesthetic purpose. Having a few to choose from in different fabrics and weights gives you options for a completely different look, even if you’ve worn the outfit underneath before.

If you’re at the point where you’re comfortable wearing some jewelry, think about adding a new piece. I’ve gotten into the habit of wearing the same two beaded bracelets, including this one, but had the chance to take this silver monster out for a spin recently.

We’re a little late with this post, but this wraps up an incredible year working with Luisaviaroma – a collaboration that started in Florence. The best part about us being a bit tardy, is that they’re in the midst of a crazy sale that has many items up to 80% off. Though, unfortunately, that coat many of you love is currently sold out.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

In partnership with Luisaviaroma. The opinions expressed herein are mine alone and are not indicative of the opinions or positions of Luisaviaroma.

The post How Are Those New Year’s Resolutions Going? first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

If we can be obvious for a second, we’d like to state, for the record, a well-known fact: menswear is having a global moment. And it’s a wonderful thing. For the style-conscious among us – and that’s likely everyone reading this site – it’s vindication. And for those who are just beginning their menswear journey, it should be empowering.

One of the effects of the burgeoning global menswear movement is the attention being paid to men’s runway shows, especially the recent addition of a standalone New York Fashion Week dedicated to menswear.

If you’re baffled by fashion shows and feel there’s a bit of a disconnect between the runway and reality, you’re not alone. Yes, some are quite theatrical with looks not necessarily to be worn “in the wild,” but they do serve a purpose. And that purpose is to present the direction of the upcoming season based on forecasted trends.

Yes, trends can be cringe-worthy, but don’t assume ‘trend’ is a dirty word. We were at the shows last week and identified several of the trends you’ll actually want to pay attention to and work into your personal style.

So here are five trends that you can easily wear now (and look forward to wearing next fall).

Monochromatic

| NET NEUTRALITY | Monochromatic looks were all over the runway this season. Above, neutrals at Joseph Abboud. | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Robin West

Though color coordination can seem a bit intimidating at first, there is something elevated and luxe about wearing a head-to-toe look built with pieces in a similar hue. Don’t worry about matching colors exactly – and actually, this is something to be discouraged.

If you’re going to try the monochromatic look, pick a shade (light heathered grey, dark charcoal, navy, chocolate browns, dark red) and find similar shades in different textures or fabric. The subtle differences in the thread and finish will allow the outfit to appear perfectly imperfect.

Turtlenecks

| HERE TO STAY | Turtlenecks are making a serious play to join the ranks of the crew neck, v-neck and cardigan as a staple of the sweater world. Above, at Todd Snyder.

We’ve been preaching the utility of the turtleneck for a couple of years now, and it looks like they’re not going anywhere. Turtlenecks of the chunky woven variety, looser fits, and even under two- and three-piece suits, all made a very strong showing.

A turtleneck is a very easy piece to start practicing layering techniques with. It’s simple, stylish and always looks sophisticated. Ideally, you’ll have two in your wardrobe – one in a lightweight merino wool and another that’s a bit more chunky.

Textures & Prints

| ABOVE & BELOW | Top, a richly textured sweater (and monochromatic look) at Zachary Prell. Bottom, prints at Perry Ellis.

Whether it was shown through the simple knit detailing of a sweater at Zachary Prell, a jacquard suit at Perry Ellis, or a subtle plaid wool print at Public School, the attention paid to details was not overlooked – and it was exactly what we were hoping for.

This round of shows paid respect to the subtle nuances and craftsmanship that the American menswear market has grown accustomed to, and that it deserves.

Layering

| ATTENTION TO DETAIL | Layering well takes some thought and planning, which, when it comes to style, is always a good use of brain power. Above, a favorite look from Joseph Abboud.

We’ve become accustomed to various layering techniques in both menswear and womenswear, but the Joseph Abboud runway was full of many new variations. It also was the first time we’ve seen silk neckwear layered under turtlenecks. A scarf under a turtleneck, under a waist-coat, under an overcoat – the turducken of menswear?

While the looks from Joseph Abboud are admittedly a bit hard (not to mention warm) to manage in your everyday style, the aesthetic seen here and at Public School, Perry Ellis and Todd Snyder can easily be translated from the runway to every day.

Similar to the monochromatic trend, the outfit in the photo above works because of the similar colors that bring the look together.

Rich Colors

| GET RICH QUICK | A pop of color needn’t be jarring. Deeper, richer hues present a more luxe and sophisticated appearance. Above, details from Todd Snyder.

We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: there’s nothing sharper in the fall or winter than the addition of some rich jewel tones.

The slideshow above is filled with luxe greens, blues, reds and golden yellows – all great additions that will add a pop of color to any of the colors on the classic menswear palate. If you’re a bit color-shy, look to your accessories to play around with color, to start.

Assignment: review the slideshow, then chime in below with your thoughts on the trends from this season’s shows.

Stylishly Yours,

Robin West
He Spoke Style

The post At the Shows: 5 Trends to Wear Now first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

When we think of business attire, the first thing that comes to mind is probably a solid color suit – think navy or charcoal grey. And unless you’re talking about pinstripes, patterns don’t always factor in to the workplace wardrobe. I’m not sure why that is, but you shouldn’t be afraid to add a little pattern to your office style.

| WEARING | QG Custom suit, Michael Andrews Bespoke shirt, Saks Fifth Avenue tie, Vintage silk scarf, Briefcase c/o Korchmar, Watch c/o Uniform Wares, Shoes c/o Paul Evans | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

When I say “little pattern,” I literally mean little pattern. As we’ve mentioned, a small-scale houndstooth is the perfect way to start incorporating patterns into your suit game. It’s noticeable up close, but from a distance it almost appears solid.

Brown and burgundy are a natural match for each other – both are rich and earthy. Use a lightweight silk scarf to add a dapper accent and some depth to a two-piece suit when it’s warm enough to go without a coat.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post The Houndstooth Suit: All Business first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

With Valentine’s Day right around the corner, we thought it an apt time to consult that men’s style icon who also happens to be our resident Italian guy, Giampaolo Alliata, on the finer points of charming a woman. Take notes, gentleman. Love is in the air.

Let’s cut right to the chase… What’s the best way to charm a woman?

I think there are no rules – it depends completely on the woman. But in any case, you should be yourself from the beginning. Eye contact is very important. And don’t talk too much; listen to her. Try to surprise her in an original way.

Flowers: yes or no?

Yes!

Holding the door: yes or no?

Always hold the door! And when I say always, I mean for every woman – not just for your girlfriend.

Putting her coat on for her: yes or no?

Yes. Same answer as holding the door.

If a guy is on a date with a woman, should he always pay?

I think so. I always do. Keep in mind, that it’s not necessary to bring her to the fanciest restaurant in town. There are many smaller romantic places. In Italy we call them trattoria or brasserie. But please pay for her. I think that a man who is generous with his money is also generous with his heart.

Ideal outfit to impress a woman on a first date?

Wear at least a blue blazer. If it is more causal, it’s okay to wear it with jeans and a nice white button-down. Try to be elegant, but always be yourself.

Do you have to wear a tie? No, it’s not necessary. But if you wear one, be sure to wear it with a tight knot – i.e. all the way around the neck – and if it is too warm, ask your date’s permission to take the tie off. Never have it loose around your neck.

Do Italians celebrate Valentine’s Day or is it an American thing?

I personally don’t celebrate Valentine’s Day. For me, it’s something that is fake. My advice is to make every day of your life Valentine’s Day!

What would be the best gift to bring a woman on Valentine’s Day?

Call ahead to the restaurant you’re going to take her and ask that the waiter put one rose on the table just for her. It’s important that it’s just one rose. This will be perfect. 50 roses is overkill. Sometimes, it’s better to be simple.

A lot of modern women are very independent and like to say they don’t need a man – they can do things on their own. Is this true, or just an act?

Well, this is very difficult to answer. I personally like independent women, but I am who I am! I act the same way…

Okay, so maybe it’s because I’m too romantic, or maybe because I’m Italian, or maybe it’s because my father taught me a certain way, but I believe that every woman wants to be treated like a princess.

I’m also a dreamer, so I try to date someone who has the same dreams. And then together, we try to make those dreams come true!

The post Ask An Italian Guy How to Charm a Woman first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Let me help you with your Valentine’s Day checklist. Have you gotten her something she’s going to love? Made a dinner reservation? Or at least picked a place for drinks? Set a reminder to buy flowers? (Don’t forget mom!) Thought about what to wear?

If the answer to that last question is “no,” don’t worry – we’ve got your back.

Here are a few outfit ideas from the HSS Style Guide that will have you covered whether you’re planning something low-key and casual or elegant and highly romantic.

1. She’s The One

You’ve got to go all-out if you know she’s the one, but don’t confuse all-out with overdoing it. To me, all-out is one of your best, polished and classic outfits. And don’t worry, she’ll notice the wingtip dress boots after you give her that bouquet of flowers.

2. Solid Basics

Don’t neglect the basics like slim dark denim and a navy blazer just because it’s a special occasion. Dress them up while still keeping it rugged with a chambray shirt, hearty tie and contrasting scarf. Perfect for a first, second, or third date.

3. Understated Elegance

If your Valentine’s Day plans include dinner at a nice restaurant, swap the shirt and tie in favor of a turtleneck. Every dude’s going to be wearing a shirt and tie so why not stand out in a sophisticated and elegant way?

4. Low-Key Early Evening

Don’t forget about white denim. For a Valentine’s Day brunch date that may or may not transition to late-afternoon/early-evening drinks, it’s a perfect, more polished option that regular blue jeans.

5. High/Low Comfort

Have a date with a long-time flame? Try going high/low. Tone down a dressed up look – classic trousers, button-down and double monks – with a casual and versatile menswear staple like an athletic sweatshirt.

6. Casually Tailored

When in doubt, combine some of your favorite casual basics with tailored pieces in your closet. A waistcoat does an amazing job of taking an okay outfit to a different level.

7. After Work

Hey, maybe you have to work on Sunday! Even if you don’t, a smart office look can easily double as a well-put together Valentine’s Day date night outfit. No hints of red? No problem. A color does not a festive mood make.

8. Night On The Town

If you’ve done the requisite research into the optimal number of pairs of jeans you should own, you might be trying to find a way to work in your “in-between” dress pant into the mix. If your night is going to be a late one at a swanky lounge, go for something darker and edgier. It’ll be a little cold so accent the monochrome with a scarf.

Now that you’ve got some outfit ideas, take our resident Italian guy’s refresher class on how to charm a woman.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post What to Wear on a Valentine’s Day Date first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

In the modern world, I think it’s fair to say that innovation is a very, very elusive thing. With all of our interconnectedness and collective knowledge – thanks, Internet! – it’s hard to fathom creating something new and original. Seriously, what hasn’t been done, or at least attempted?

Nowhere is this idea more evident than in the resurgence of cocktail culture. I mean, when you’re working in the realm of classic cocktails, how on earth can you do something original with just two or three ingredients? You’ve got to imagine that every possible permutation has been tried and experimented with by any number of professional or home mixologists.

Perhaps one of the simplest and most pure of all classic cocktails is the venerable Old Fashioned. Whiskey, sugar, bitters and ice. How can this be improved upon? Well, my friend Josh Brandenburg of Bar 44 at the Royalton Hotel in New York City came up with a creative twist on the old classic – and it includes a smoked wood chip. Delicious.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Want more HSS In Good Company? Well, there’s more on the way! Be sure to subscribe to the YouTube channel to be the first to see new episodes.

Video produced and edited by Corey Maloney. Photography by Rob McIver Photo. Shot on location at the Royalton Hotel, 44 West 44th Street, New York, NY.

The post A New Classic: The Smoked Old Fashioned first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A pair of ivory-colored or cream pants are one of menswear’s most underrated items. There’s no better way to instantly class up any outfit. They will literally go with anything. Here’s one way to wear them this winter.

| WEARING | Al Bazar blazer, Uniqlo shirt, QG Custom pants, Gitman Bros. tie, Watch c/o Uniform Wares, Tateossian and Cantini MC Firenze bracelets, Loafers c/o Tod’s | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Winter tends to be a time when we discount lighter and brighter shades – whites, especially. No need to. In the dead of winter, it’s an unexpected addition and gives off an optimistic vibe.

Speaking of underrated items and unsung heroes, I’d put a denim/chambray shirt into that category as well. I’ve recently been wearing mine often as a way to dress down and add a casual touch to dressier looks.

Always remember that going through a Made to Measure program takes time. I ordered my cream pants in late November, hoping to have them for the holiday season. There was an unforeseen delay and they came in the second week of January. Unlike black watch plaid, however, cream pants are season-less and can be worn year round (lighter fabrics for spring/summer, of course).

Thanks, as always, for reading. Have a great weekend. (And don’t forget to get your special lady something nice.)

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post The Classy Cream-Colored Trouser first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

The button-down collar is one of the cooler pieces of the menswear history puzzle as it’s path is clear and unquestionable – none of this ‘may have been invented sometime during the middle ages somewhere near or around Europe’ and whatnot.

Just as the look itself is firmly and unmistakably cemented in the men’s style lexicon, the origins are just as clear and iconic.

The button-down collar was originally called a ‘polo collar’ and was worn pretty exclusively by – yes, you guessed it – polo players (largely in England in the late 19th century).

While most men’s collars at the time were not fastened at the point with buttons, polo players found the non-fastened style to be cumbersome as it would flap in their faces while riding. At first, the button was merely a homemade remedy as polo players attached them to keep their collars out of their way.

| CLASSICALLY STYLED | J.Crew blazer, Brooks Brothers Black Fleece button-down shirt | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Believe it or not, it was Brooks Brothers very own John Brooks who took note of this style maneuver and began offering button-down shirts to the general public in the family stores. In fact, Brooks Brothers button-down shirts still say ‘The Original Polo Shirt’ on the label today.

The Brooks Brothers influence landed the button-down collar solidly in the day-to-day rotation of men’s attire, but the look really became a distinct fashion move when the Italians (who else, right?) adopted it in the mid-1900s.

Specifically, style legend Gianni Agnelli was known for incorporating the button-down shirt into his personal uniform, opting to wear his unfastened for a look of instantly recognizable sprezzatura.

Today, button-down shirts are everywhere, from ill-fitting Men’s Warehouse business packs to tried-and-true prep classics from Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers, to modern fashion labels from Band of Outsiders to Mark McNairy to Thom Browne and many, many more.

Here’s some outfit inspiration from the HSS Style Guide, featuring button-down shirts of various types styled for a variety of situations – from dressed up to casual – and seasons.

1. Casual Business Traveler

2. Everyday Office Attire

3. Funked Up Suit

4. Coffee Date

5. Casual Weekend Layering

6. Rolled Up Summer Dapper

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

Menswear history buff? Read more of our Style Defined series and explore the Glossary.

The post Style Defined: The Button-Down Shirt first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

One of the trends forecasted for last fall that never really materialized was an abundance of olive green. I guess that, like weathermen, fashion forecasters can be wrong as well.

But the good news is that because it never “caught on,” there’s no reason to be sick of it. And, in fact, now is as good a time as any to add an olive blazer to your wardrobe. Here’s one way to do it.

I almost bought an olive blazer at Al Bazar during my last trip to Milan. I decided against it because I was slightly worried about how versatile it would (or wouldn’t) be. So in Italy, instead of the green, I went with the brown version, which I have gotten a lot of wear out of (i.e. it was a good choice).

| WEARING | Ralph Lauren blazer and pants, Uniqlo shirt, Oliver Peoples glasses, Rolex watch, Smythson notebook, Suede shoes c/o Tod’s | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Does that mean that an olive blazer isn’t versatile? Absolutely not. And it’s a fantastic fall/winter piece. But what color pants should you wear with an olive blazer?

Though I wouldn’t consider olive a ‘neutral,’ per se, it’s pretty close. As a result, treat it just like you would any other color from the classic menswear palate. In other words, you can pair it with most anything.

The easiest pants to wear an olive blazer with are classic blue or grey trousers, or a pair of slim dark denim.

It can certainly be dressed up, but the earthiness of the color gives it a more rugged appearance. Try it with a denim or chambray shirt.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

In partnership with Macy’s. The opinions expressed herein are mine alone and are not indicative of the opinions or positions of Macy’s.

The post Army of Style: Olive Green Blazer first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

What the hell happened to men’s style blogs?

I let the site’s two-year anniversary slip by last year with absolutely zero fanfare. But I didn’t want its three-year anniversary – which actually is today – to get the same treatment because I have a lot to put out there.

And the truth is that I’ve been anticipating and thinking about this post and how to write it a lot over the past few weeks. I’ve jotted down several pages of notes, had multiple conversations about what exactly it is that I want to say and fretted exhaustively over what tone I should (or shouldn’t) take. So I’m just going to lay all my cards on the table and say what I really feel: what the fuck has happened to men’s style blogs?

Heavy, right? And certainly a statement that deserves some explaining and context.

Everything I’m thinking about has to do with what I feel the terms ‘blog’ and ‘blogger’ represent and how that’s changed and evolved over the past three years. Literally one day after I published my first post on HSS, Leandra Medine offered a prescient and pointed critique of the blogging business.

In it, she blamed a changing fashion industry and bloggers’ questionable integrity for the bastardization of the term ‘blog’ and posited that the way forward would include Darwinism at its best. So here we are three years later. Has anything changed? I really don’t think so. In fact, I’d say we’re even worse off.

| WEARING | Suitsupply blazer, Neiman Marcus shirt, Banana Republic pants, Rolex watch, Leather cigar case c/o Ghurka, Tod’s shoes | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

When Leandra wrote that post, the old-guard was up in arms over this new class of self-styled and self-made fashion “experts.” Who the hell did these people think they were? They didn’t pay their dues. They didn’t start at the bottom as an intern at a major fashion publication and work their way up to relevance and importance. But they get to sit front row and we don’t anymore? Fuck these bitches. All they are is popular.

The establishment was getting turned on its head and had to come to grips with a major recalibration and reality check. So it followed, logically, that these people – these bloggers – became the subject of much derision and ire. Add to that a shameless (and sometimes mindless) approach of not disclosing gifted items and sponsored content – a complete lack of transparency – and the terms ‘blog’ and ‘blogger’ began to acquire a very dirty connotation.

But whether fashion’s traditionalists liked it or not, blogs fundamentally changed their industry and have challenged and shaken up traditional advertising and long-established ways of doing things. And that change – the democratization of fashion – has, in my opinion, been an overwhelmingly positive one. It has given more or less regular people, myself included, an opportunity to share a passion, to participate in a global conversation, to have a seat at the table (or runway show) and to have a voice.

Of all of these things, the latter is the most important and where I think men’s blogs are failing miserably.

I launched HSS during a time of unprecedented promise and excitement in the online men’s space. It was our moment. It was our time! (And it would be all over the second we rode up Troy’s bucket… A small bit of levity brought to you by this Goonies quote.) And the success of HSS and a handful of other upstart men’s style sites rested squarely on the merits and quality of one thing alone – our blogs.

In the three years since we launched, the changes in that model have been palpable. Many, if not all, of the bloggers I “came up” with have all but abandoned their blogs, in favor of cultivating an extremely narcissistic and self-aggrandizing social media presence – a new class of D-list Insta-celeb – and only posting to their actual blogs when their scope of work dictates they must.

Why do I think this has happened? Simple: blogging is hard. And there’s quick money if you’re a “social star.” Blogging requires thought. It requires planning. It requires the ability to write. It requires a host of other skills and proficiencies beyond the scope of simply possessing the ability to edit photos in VSCO (which, I will concede, can be something of an art).

So maybe Leandra was right. Maybe Darwinism has prevailed and those of us still grinding in the blogosphere – those of us who are still writing content because we have something to say, because we start conversations and listen to our readers, because we want to provide something useful and of value to the world, because our currency is brand loyalty and not the dollar, because we’d prefer to say “listen to me” rather than “look at me!” – have survived while the weak have been weaned off and are trying to find and reinvent themselves as something else. But whatever that something else is, let’s not confuse it with being a blogger.

And that’s really it. ‘Blog’ may have become a “dirty word” three years ago, but I, for one, would like to take back the term because what real bloggers do deserves some respect.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post HSS at Three: The Lost Art of Blogging first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Continuing our series on getting your suit tailored – get the scoop on jacket alterations here – today we’ll be talking about tailoring your pants. Please note, that although we’ve titled this post “Suit Pants Alterations,” the alterations we discuss can be applied to any pair of pants.

Here are a list of some of the most common suit pants alterations plus a little commentary on whether or not they’re worth the cost.

1. Hem

If there is one alteration every guy should consider, it’s getting your pants hemmed. If you’re accustomed to custom clothing or buying higher quality off the rack garments where the pants are unfinished, chances are you already know your way around this alteration.

Where the pant should break (or not break) is a matter of personal preference. Personally, I prefer my pants to just kiss the top of my shoe with very little to no break at all. We’ve got a guide to pant breaks in the queue, so stay tuned for that.

Worth the money? Always.

Bottom Line: Hemming your pants is a simple and inexpensive alteration that pays big dividends in terms of looking like you’ve put some effort into your wardrobe.

Bonus Tip: I always like to buy my pants on the longer side and have them hemmed. I will normally wear a 30/30, but I’ll always buy a 30/32 to make sure I get the length exactly as I like it.

2. Waist

| WEARING | Al Bazar shirt, Brooks Brothers tie, Reiss pants, Wingtips c/o Allen Edmonds | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Two things can be done to the waist of your pants: 1) it can be taken in (reduced) or 2) let out (made bigger). The most important thing to remember is that there’s much more room to take the waist in than to let it out. If you look on the inside of your pants you can see how much extra fabric there is at the seam.

Worth the money? Yes.

Bottom Line: An easy alteration that helps out with comfort.

Bonus Tip: Lots of guys have athletic legs (i.e. larger thighs) and often complain about not being able to find pants that fit correctly. If that’s you, a little trick is to size up in the waist so the legs are a little wider and then get the waist taken in. Guys with this issue tend to swear by the Dockers Alpha Khaki.

3. Taper

A tapered leg is not for everyone. And the amount of taper should be guided by your body type. Remember, taken as a whole, a suit should look like it is in proportion with itself. So, if you’re a little larger up top, tapering the leg opening to 7″ may not be the best move.

DON’T MISS: The HSS Guide to Finding a Quality Tailor

A tapered leg has a very clean look and is necessary if you’re going with the no-break look. However, it shouldn’t be tapered to the point where your pants look painted on. My rule of thumb is that the pants still need to feel comfortable. Take it only as far as this allows.

Tapering a pant’s leg not outrageously expensive, but it costs more than a simple hem or waist alteration.

Worth the money? Depends.

Bottom Line: Get your pant legs tapered only if you are fully committed to the look. Once the alteration is done, there’s no going back.

4. Rise

A pants rise is the distance between the middle of the crotch seam to the top of the waistband. This is a measurement that varies from brand to brand. Whether you like a low, mid, or high rise is a personal preference and dependent on your body type and style inclinations.

The rise can technically be altered, but it’s tricky and a lot of work as it requires recutting the pants in a major way. It’s not a common alteration like a hem or taking in the waist, but one that is sometimes asked for.

Worth the money? (Or the tailor’s time and effort?) No.

Bottom Line: If you’re unhappy with the rise of a pair of pants, try to find a brand/retailer that carries a fit that’s more in line with what you’d like. Or, if you’re going the made to measure route, bring up your rise concerns and make sure that program will meet your needs.

DON’T MISS: Our Suit Alterations Price Guide

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Suit Alterations 101: The Pants first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Ever since HSS began expanding horizontally, I’ve been searching for ways to deepen the relationship I have with all of you. Our videos have been one way, but although our team has grown significantly, producing a weekly video series that adheres to our standard of quality while maintaining our regular content schedule has been very difficult. That’s why you don’t see them as often. And, hey, I don’t want to be that kind of friend you only hear from once or twice a year.

That’s why we’re introducing a new weekly podcast. I’m always at my desk, so it’s easy to talk into the computer.

That’s It will cover a wide variety of topics, including menswear, of course, but I say why limit ourselves? Because more than anything, I want this to be a place where we can get to know each other better and connect over experiences and issues I know we all share. I’m talking about culture, work, relationships and just plain old life. Haven’t you always wanted to be friends?

This week on the show: three stories about the beginnings of HSS not included in our usual creation myth.

Now, you can certainly listen to each episode here – we will publish to the site each week – but what you really should do is subscribe to the podcast in iTunes. And while you’re there, I’d love if you’d bestow upon us the honor of a five-star rating.

Thanks for listening and enjoy the weekend.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

That’s It is edited by Mack McLaughlin.

The post Welcome to That’s It, Our New Podcast first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

You may have caught on by now that I’m a big supporter of breaking suits up and wearing each piece separately and/or in different combinations. Versatility is a core value of HSS and it’s one we’ve been preaching from the beginning.

You may have also caught on – or remembered me mentioning it before – that we’ve been showcasing ways to wear a winter wool houndstooth suit. Up next, pants separate.

Breaking up a suit and styling it as separates can be somewhat tricky. Pay special attention and make sure that the fabrics you’re mixing play well together. Nailhead isn’t going to work with tweed. And even if two pieces the same fabric family – wool, for example – one could be shiny while the other could be more muted.

| WEARING | Daniele Alessandrini coat, Al Bazar blazer and shirt, QG Custom pants, Brooks Brothers tie, Beams Plus scarf, Rolex watch, Tateossian and Cantini MC Firenze bracelets, Shoes c/o Coach | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

It can take a little time to curate your wardrobe to the point where pieces from a few different suits can be swapped between themselves. However, it’s worth the thought and planning. The “mixed three-piece suit” has been something I’ve been hot on this season.

A pattern can also complicate matters, especially when that pattern is in the pants. Unless you want to engage in some advanced pattern mixing, a good rule of thumb is as follows: patterned blazer, solid pants; or solid blazer, patterned pants, like I’ve done here. The smaller the pattern, the easier it will feel to pull off.

During the fall and winter, a silk scarf is always a good way to add some style and class to any look with a blazer.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Simple Advice for Styling Patterned Pants first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

“Know the rules well, so you can break them effectively,” said the Dalai Lama.

How’s this for an answer to the question posed in the title? Whenever you damn well feel like it? Ha ha, right? If it was that simple I wouldn’t be writing this post, but the question of when it’s appropriate to wear a three-piece suit comes up time and time again. So, here we are.

Like many classic menswear items, the three-piece suit is generally bound up by any number of style rules. And I have to tell you that I truly have a love/hate relationship with rules as they pertain to style. I love them – sometimes – because they’re a good starting point and place to get one’s bearings.

But on the other hand, I hate them because they often have the effect of rendering well-meaning guys who are honestly trying to make a good-faith effort to improve their appearance utterly paralyzed. And with the popularity of some online forums full of bona fide ultra-conservative style trolls proclaiming, “Death to rule-breakers!” it’s enough to completely turn a dude off.

My take on this has been and will always be as follows: understand the rules, then break them if you please. And, if it looks and/or feels right, it is right. Some heavy hitters have my back. “Know the rules well, so you can break them effectively,” said the Dalai Lama. And courtesy of Pablo Picasso: “Learn the rules like a pro, so you can break them like an artist.”

But back to the question at hand: when can you wear a three-piece suit?

| WEARING | QG Custom suit, Al Bazar shirt, Gitman Bros. tie, Briefcase c/o Maxwell Scott, Watch c/o Uniform Wares, Tateossian and Cantini MC Firenze bracelets, Shoes c/o Johnston & Murphy | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

We are conditioned to think of a three-piece suit as an extremely formal garment. And, yes, it can be. In dark colors, fabrics with a bit of a sheen, or styled with a formal touch, it certainly does come off as formal. But, like the rules of style, there are always exceptions.

The brown houndstooth three-piece suit I’m wearing, for example. It’s a a rich wool with a houndstooth pattern, which gives it a bit of a rustic, earthy and countryside feel, in my opinion.

I’ve also always been a fan of taking a three-piece suit down a formality notch or two by paying close attention to how I style it. With a denim shirt or knit tie or any number of accessories or shoes that challenge the formal vibe, it’s anything but.

When to wear a three-piece suit depends as much on the situation as it does your comfort level. Always think about the “usual” dress code of where you’re going to be wearing one. If your office is a jeans and sweatshirt kind of place, then it’s probably never going to be appropriate. However, if your workplace does happen to be a suit and tie office, then showing up in a three-piece suit might not be that out of place so long as you don’t go overboard with the styling.

Just remember that no matter what the situation, it’s always better to be over-dressed than under-dressed. And you know what? If you do show up to someplace wearing a killer three piece suit and you feel a little of of place, just take off the waistcoat or lose the jacket. As I’ve said often, the waistcoat and trousers combo is one of the more under-appreciated combos out there.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post When Can You Wear a Three-Piece Suit? first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Next up in our How To Pack It series: the blazer. There are a few ways to skin this cat – variations on folding as well as rolling – but this is my preferred method. It has served me well for many, many years. Follow the step-by-step guide above and get some answers to common questions below. Happy packing.

Step 5 of 10. Step-by-step instructions in the slideshow.

What’s the best way to pack a blazer so it doesn’t wrinkle?

Well, the best way is to wear it on the plane and fold it neatly in the overhead bin!

But if you’re taking more than one blazer, follow the guide above to start! However, there’s really no way to keep your blazer from getting wrinkled if you’re packing it away in a suitcase, carry-on, or duffle bag.

BET YOU ALSO WANT TO KNOW: How to Pack a Shirt in a Suitcase

You can attempt to lessen the amount of wrinkling by placing your blazer in a sealable plastic bag after folding it, but it’s still going to require some ironing/steaming once you get to your destination. I recommend investing in a travel steamer.

How about rolling?

This isn’t a method I personally use. I feel like it adds a bunch of stress to the collar and lapels. You could make an argument, I suppose, that rolling instead of folding might reduce large creases – and you might be right. Either way is a compromise. Just choose the one that feels right to you.

How long does your folding method take?

Less than a minute once you get the hang of it.

Chime in with your blazer folding and packing tips below.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post How To Pack It: The Blazer first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

So far, we’ve covered getting your suit jacket and pants tailored. Today we’re going to discuss alterations for the most versatile part of any suit: the waistcoat (or vest).

Unlike a suit’s jacket or pants, there aren’t too many alterations that can be done to the waistcoat. However, the two alterations you might want to consider have a lot to do with how it should fit. So, let’s discuss.

There are two main areas to keep in mind when talking about how a waistcoat should fit: the body and the length.

| WEARING | Reiss blazer and pants, Brooks Brothers waistcoat and tie, Al Bazar shirt, Watch c/o Uniform Wares | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

The Body. Like a denim jacket, a waistcoat should be snug and fit close to the body. It shouldn’t be so tight that it pulls the fabric, however. So think comfortably sung. (Anybody hearing Pink Floyd…?) Most waistcoats will have a cinch in the back to tighten slightly, or loosen if you happened to have eaten too much at dinner.

DON’T MISS: What’s the difference between a vest and a waistcoat?

Length. A waistcoat should cover the waistband of your trousers and never let any of your shirt show in between your pants and the waistcoat.

Waistcoat/Suit Vest Alterations

Take In/Let Out. It is entirely likely that a waistcoat cannot be let out at all. However, it can be taken in. Though even that can be a bit tricky as the tailor must compensate for how the arm holes will lay once the alteration is finished. If it’s doable, it’s worth the money.

DON’T MISS: A Guide to Tailoring Costs.

Lengthen/Shorten. Just like tailoring a suit jacket, a waistcoat cannot be made longer. There is also a very slim margin for how much it can be shortened before it starts to mess with the garment’s balance. If it’s a minor alteration – i.e. less than half an inch – go for it.

The best way to ensure you have a properly fitted and sized waistcoat is to go custom through a made to measure program.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Suit Alterations 101: The Waistcoat first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Pinstripe is one of those patterns that, honestly, doesn’t need a ton of explanation – it’s quite simply a series of evenly spaced stripes that are characteristically skinny – ‘pin’ skinny, if you will. Simple enough!

Moreover, there isn’t necessarily any sort of fascinating or even really identifiable history to the pattern – stripes have been used for about as long as fabrics have existed, and even the particularly thin lines of pinstriping can’t be associated with any specific textile movement.

That said, there is still an interesting discussion to be had. For one, there’s an ongoing disagreement among style historians as to how the pattern found it’s way into classic men’s style, specifically suiting.

Some claim that it was through banking uniforms, with different banks creating slightly different styles of striping to identify their employees. Others attribute it to the long-standing (and current) trend of adapting sporting attire into everyday wear, looking specifically to the boating uniforms of the 1800s.

Which brings up another interesting aspect of pinstriping – the colors used. Technically, pinstripes and their backing fabrics can be any color, and still be called pinstripes. However, there are two traditional motifs used in men’s fashion.

| BRIAN WEARS | Knot Standard suit, Al Bazar shirt, Drake’s tie, Brooks Brothers suspenders | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

The first is light stripes on a dark backing – which is, sure enough, often seen as the epitome of business-formal style (ahoy, bankers!). The second, dark stripes over a light background, can be traced back to that sporting origin story – look at baseball uniforms, like the Chicago Cubs. (Fun fact – the Cubs have been credited as the first professional baseball team to incorporate pinstripes into their uniforms, after which countless teams followed suit).

With all that in mind, it makes sense that today, darker fabrics with light stripes remain more formal, often used in business suits and more formal neckwear – think somber and respectable. Likewise, light fabrics with dark stripes have remained characteristically casual, often seen on cotton blazers, exuding a laid-back dandy image characteristic of summer cocktail parties and horse racing attire.

These days, pinstripes remain ubiquitous and firmly entrenched in the canon of classic menswear patterns. It’s one you see everywhere, but probably often don’t even notice. In fact, the strength of pinstripe is precisely that – its versatility and subtlety. Whether it’s a structured, dark three-piece suit or the lining to your favorite bomber, it’s a look that will often complement and never offend!

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

The post Style Defined: Pinstripes first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Feeling overwhelmed? In this episode of That’s It, we attempt to get unpack why this seems to be the new norm and, frankly, why we’re inflicting this affliction upon ourselves. Topics include: social media consumption, office politics and strategies for turning it all off.

Subscribe to That’s It on iTunes and while you’re there why not give us a five-star rating and leave a review?

Thanks for listening and enjoy the weekend.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

That’s It is edited by Mack McLaughlin; photograph via The Conversation.

The post That’s It: Episode 2 first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

When I quipped that you could wear a three-piece suit whenever you damn well feel like it, I admit that I was being a bit facetious. However, knowing how to dress down a three-piece suit, can greatly increase its versatility. Here’s one way to do it, featuring one of my all-time favorites.

| WEARING | Vintage Yves Saint Laurent suit, Uniqlo shirt, Luciano Barbera tie, Rolex Datejust watch, Shoes c/o Coach | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

The vibe of any suit – two- or three-piece – depends a lot on the shirt and tie combination you choose. A denim shirt is one of the easiest ways to tone down a three-piece suit’s formality. And the addition of a playful and classic patterned tie is the perfect complement.

I’ve talked a lot about a dark brown suit being just about as classic a choice as navy or grey. Just as versatile with a little less baggage, and therefore more open to interpretation.

Apologies for the brevity of this post. I’m hitting the road tomorrow for a while and we’ve been grinding to get some quality content in the can before the trip. You may have noticed our recent How To Pack It features – blazer and dress shirt – which I will be consulting late this evening. And I’m going to have to remember to pack my mic to keep up with the podcast while I’m away.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post The Everyday Three-Piece Suit first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Proper pant length and the amount of break is ultimately a personal style choice.

Let’s start with a definition.

The break in a pair of dress pants (or jeans or chinos, for that matter) is the fold or creasing of the fabric above the bottom of the front of the pant leg where it meets your shoe.

“Proper” pant length is matter of much discussion when it comes to the rules of style. Ultimately, however, the length of one’s pants – or how much or little break one’s pants have – is a personal style choice and very much a matter of personal preference, aesthetics and body type.

Here are four of the most common pant breaks and hemlines you’re likely to see as well as some guidance on choosing what pant length is right for you.

1. No Break

Thom Browne’s shrunken suit forever changed the face of men’s dress pants. While the above-the-ankle style can only truly be pulled off by some, many guys feel comfortable with a “no break” hem, where the pant leg just kisses the top of the shoe.

While the Thom Brown aesthetic makes no allowance for shaping the width of the pants down the leg, this style looks best with a well-defined taper. My personal preference is to have around a 7″ leg opening at the bottom.

What It Says About You: I’m modern, hip, care deeply about precise tailoring and aspire to be a fashionable European gentleman.

Looks Best On: slim dudes, short dudes, Italian guys, wannabe Italian guys, young bucks, the fashion set.

2. Slight Break

If “no break” and the requisite aggressively tapered leg is a little too fashion-forward for you but you still want to be a bit contemporary, the slight break is for you. This looks best without a cuff and with the back of the pant leg angled a little longer than the front.

What It Says About You: I understand that fit is everything and I desire to be contemporary and up-to-date, but not trendy.

Looks Best On: pretty much everyone, slim (not cropped or skinny) trouser widths, the modern businessman.

3. Medium Break

This is an ideal look for those with a more conservative style, who don’t want a tapered or slim trouser and want to go with a cuff.

What It Says About You: I’m serious about style and have a quality tailor with a conservative approach that I respect and embrace.

Looks Best On: middle-aged guys, conservative businessmen, gentlemen carrying around a little extra weight.

4. Full Break

Full disclosure: ideally, to pull off this style and for it to look “right,” the pant leg needs to be wider than is pictured here. This is my widest pair of pants and I did my best to show what a full break might look like. In a perfect world, there is a decent amount of fabric pooling at the ankle, but it should look a bit more elegant than shown.

What It Says About You: I’m either older, wiser, heavier and stylistically conservative or I live in my own private and perpetual Jazz Age Lawn Party.

Looks Best On: older gentleman, heavier gentleman, wide-leg trousers, vintage/throw-back dudes.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post The HSS Guide To Pant Breaks first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice