from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Because they kind of go hand-in-hand, no?

The accidental censor bar on these male swimmers is unfortunately funny. Is it just me, or are this year’s games experiencing more sexual tension than usual?

And, here we can see Matthew McConaughey being all, well, Matthew McConaughey.

In other news…

We made our own summer playlist for you already, and now so did President Obama.

Because vaping on it’s own isn’t bad enough, there is “competitive vaping”. Eye roll.

You may have seen his 1970s style in street style coverage, but who is the man behind the “wonderfully sleazy” looks?

We still do not understand Vetements and the cult following. And we’re not alone.

Common Projects is very well known for their highly-copied, simplistic sneakers. (We happen to be big fans.) Now, they are looking to gain traction this fall with their suede chelsea boot.

Aging gracefully when losing your hair – a.k.a. balding like a badass. Can it really be true?

Kicking off a new spotlight series on some of our favorite menswear Instagram stars, starting with Justus Hansen.

Because living in NYC in the summer during a heatwave isn’t bad enough, let’s remind everyone that the heat can make cockroaches FLY RIGHT AT YOU. Excuse me while I pack my bags…

Thanks, as always, for reading. And Happy Monday.

Stylishly Yours,

Robin West
He Spoke Style

Featured image via NBC

The post Censored Swimmers, Balding Like a Badass & More first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A simple and casual polo shirt outfit

Way back when we started the site, one of the very first things I wrote about was a little wardrobe experiment/performance piece I conducted over the course of an entire year.

Inspired by the simple style of Steve Jobs – I’d just read Walter Isaacson’s Jobs biography – and the resulting clear mind that Jobs claimed to have experienced from simplifying that aspect of his life, I wondered whether or not that was a phenomenon I would feel. And if it would have the same effect on me.

The takeaway for me was, yes, it definitely simplifies life. Not having to decide what to wear in the morning certainly frees the mind for other things. Yet, it removes one of the most interesting and exciting aspects of menswear – the rich variety of possibilities.

Long story short: Would I do it again? Absolutely not. It was an interesting exercise, but menswear is too much fun. However, there’s nothing wrong with dressing simply.

| WEARING | J.Crew polo shirt, Pants c/o Tommy Hilfiger, IWC watch, Persol sunglasses, Suitsupply loafers | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Maybe it’s the heat – it was 103-degrees (felt like 116) with 50% humidity last week – but I’ve been keeping it pretty simple lately. Unless you’re wearing shorts, you need to keep it light and breathable. A classic polo shirt and cotton chinos always make the grade.

Any look as simple and casual as this one hinges on how you accessorize, which doesn’t require that much extra thought. For summer, a braided leather belt elevates a casual look. A chronograph watch keeps it sporty. And some classic plastic framed aviators add a dose of Hollywood cool.

Finally, a simple outfit is a vehicle for some interesting footwear. Sticking with one of our favorite summer loafer styles, the kiltie tassel loafer.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Summer Simply: Polo Shirt and Chinos first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

From dapper to business casual to the ultimate high-low

A cotton suit is a quintessential summer suit. It’s light, breathable and versatile enough to be dressed up when necessary or worn more casually, as many are want to do during the warmer months.

If you’ve got one cotton suit in your closet, it’s probably a classic khaki cotton suit. And if you’re looking to expand that collection, it’s time to consider something a little darker.

A dark brown cotton suit is a little less sporty than the khaki version, but just as versatile and stylish. Here are five ways to wear it.

1. Two-Piece: Classically Dapper

“Pop of color” is played out. A monochromatic look is striking and makes a bigger statement and is a lot less try-so-hard. Play with texture, play with pattern and play with fabrics. And a Panama hat doesn’t hurt either.

2. Pants Separate: Summer Grind

The best part of any cotton suit is that you’ve now got a great pair of cotton pants. Mixing dressy and casual elements is something I’ve always considered part of my personal style and I’ve been doing it more than usual this summer. A henley with a textured linen blazer is a good go-to for the day-to-day grind.

3. Two-Piece: Ultimate High/Low

Speaking of mixing casual and dressy, it doesn’t get more high/low than a t-shirt with a suit. If you’re going to wear the look, a cotton suit is pretty much the perfect match for it. Since it’s ultra-casual, go with a v-neck t-shirt – a crew neck could look a little to stiff. And give the neckline a little tug for some added swagger.

4. Jacket Separate: Italian-Inspired

You know we’re all about breaking up suits into separates here at HSS. Not only does a cotton suit get you a great pair of cotton trousers, but you also get a great cotton blazer. Dark brown goes with just about anything and during the summer, nothing’s better than a pair of white cotton chinos.

5. Two-Piece: Business Casual

For a business casual look, simply lose the tie. And keep the rest of the outfit just as simple. Basic leather briefcase and classic suede penny loafers. And don’t forget a pair of classic shades.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post 1 Piece, 5 Ways: Brown Cotton Suit first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A history of the tab collar dress shirt and why it looks so damn good

Ah, the tab collar dress shirt – it’s one of those styles that has come close to disappearing over the years, but has managed to keep a hold on its position in classic menswear wardrobes. Why? Most likely because it looks really damn good.

Sensibly, from the name, a tab collar shirt has, well, a tab that runs across the collar closure partway between the collar button and the points of the shirt. It looks good and is a feature that is actually functional.

When wearing a tie (which one should always do when wearing a tab collar shirt), the tab fastens under the tie knot and behind the blades of the tie. This achieves a couple of effects.

First, it keeps the tie knot tight against the collar. (I don’t know about you, but one of my personal pet peeves is an unintentionally loose, sloppy knot).

Second, it pushes the bottom of the knot away from the body, creating an elegant roll at the top of the tie blades.

| BRIAN WEARS | Suitsupply blazer, Yves Saint Laurent pants, Edward Sexton tab collar shirt, Drake’s tie, Citizen watch, Loafers c/o Allen Edmonds | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

By default, tab collar shirts are pretty much always point collar shirts. The narrow space between the collar points means that the tab will be entirely hidden by the tie. A wider collar spread, like a cutaway or spread collar shirt, would leave the tab exposed. In fact, the tab, if anything, makes the spread on a point collar shirt even smaller, and the necessity for a narrower tie and knot even more crucial.

Now, we’ve called the forward point collar the OG dress shirt, but in all actuality, the tab collar has been around even longer. We’re talking like before the development of the modern shirt collar, back when collars were removable and not attached to the rest of the shirt.

Prince Edward of Wales was one of the earliest ‘celebs’ to sport the look and bring it to public popularity in the 1920s and it rode strong all the way through the 1930s as well. You just have to check out some Boardwalk Empire episodes to see Nucky rocking some of the sharpest tab collar ensembles you’ve ever seen.

So why did it fall out of favor? Who really knows, but my guess is that the popularity of the tab collar has waxed and waned along with the propensity of men to wear ties.

As a look that requires a tie, it makes sense to be widely worn in an era like the early 1900s when practically every man wore one, and to return to widespread use in the 1960s with the revitalization of the classic men’s suit a la the “Mad Men generation”.

And while tab collar shirts may be a rarity in today’s often tie-less world, I’d say that as long as the necktie exists, tab collar shirts will be there to make them look even better.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

The post Style Defined: Tab Collar first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Five lovely women tell the truth about men with a five o’clock shadow

Stubble is sort of like the cilantro of men’s grooming topics. Some people love it and some people really, really hate it.

But what we think guys really want to know is: what do women prefer? Scruff or clean-shaven?

We surveyed five wonderful women on the topic.

Here’s what they said.

Jill Newman, Senior Style Editor at Robb Report

Without a doubt, a little facial hair – otherwise known as stubble – can represent a sexy, carefree spirit. It portrays a sort of understated confidence, and can denote a slightly rebellious spirit.

It works particularly well with men’s fashion now because the clothing style is more relaxed and not so buttoned-up. However, not everybody can carry if off. It should suit a guy’s personality.

For instance, it might not seem so natural on a polished-looking banker in a three-piece suit. It should also fit the occasion. If it’s a formal business environment or event, that calls for a clean shaven look and stubble isn’t acceptable.

Sarah Solomon, Social Media Journalist at TheStreet.com

I’m personally a big fan of the five o’clock shadow. It’s roguish and got that “I woke up too late to shave but I still look damn good” vibe.

Unfortunately, it can easily wander into ill-fated territory after a few days, and then you just look like you’re having problems growing a beard. On that note, there is some quaint irony in stubble actually taking constant maintenance.

Robin West, Digital Strategy at He Spoke Style

I am a fan of a man with scruff. Always have been, always will be. I don’t know where it comes from either – maybe Dylan McKay had it during the summer episodes? For me, it has serious sex appeal and makes a man look, well, very manly. That said, as with everything, there are guidelines.

First, keep it maintained, especially if you are growing it a bit longer. Once it gets to more than a week or two, depending how much growth you have, the long random strays and curls can come off as laziness or uncleanliness.

The second is that, as a girl, it can be a bit awkward for a while. Actually, it can be terrible. You start dating a guy, it’s those first few dates and you have those great, long make out sessions. Awesome!

Then you go home/wake up the next morning and see you are totally red around your mouth like Ronald McDonald from all that scruff friction that your skin is NOT used to. Our skin gets used to it after the initial shock, but this happens. So be kind, or no more kisses.

Shai Chung, Founder of Drunk On Shoes

A five o’clock shadow is like rocking a crop top – it’s not for everyone and won’t work in all situations. But when it does work, it’s amazing.

I find that guys who have more rugged features and a structured jawline look the best with a little scruff. And, personally, I find it to be a very sexy look.

But just always, always, always remember that it’s all about grooming. Keeping the scruff clean and well-groomed is the difference between being that mysterious handsome stranger or that weird creepy dude.

Mrs. Sacawa, Brian’s Mom

Call me old fashioned, but I do not like stubble. Some may say it’s sexy, but not me. I like a clean-shaven guy.

What don’t I like about it?

Well, first, it’s scratchy. Stubble also makes me think, for whatever reason, that a guy is too lazy to shave. It can look messy and unclean depending on how the person is dressed. Also, on some guys it can grow unevenly and patchy which just doesn’t look good.

Again, I’ll take a clean-shaven guy all the time. (Except if the person with stubble happens to be my son! Though I like him better clean-shaven, which he knows…)

Now that you know what the women think. What do you think? Chime in below.

Featured image via Harper’s Bazaar

The post Do Women Prefer Men With Stubble? first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

When a suit is too formal, turn to a strong blazer and trousers combo

Robin and I will be attending a couple late summer weddings, which naturally raises the question: how does one dress for a late summer wedding? And, you know? That’s not a bad question.

A summer wedding is the perfect time for a seersucker suit, but with the season starting wane, it’s likely going to seem a little out of place. We’re talking a late summer wedding here. It still going to feel mostly like summer though perhaps maybe not.

However it feels, what you wear should reflect that almost in-between seasonal state. Here’s one outfit idea.

| WEARING | Blazer c/o Tommy Hilfiger, Al Bazar shirt, QG Custom pants, Drake’s tie, Cartier watch, Oliver Peoples sunglasses, Cantini MC Firenze bracelet, Loafers c/o Allen Edmonds | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Let’s start here: should you wear a suit? My advice is to dispense with the suit for a good blazer and trousers combination. Why? Summer weddings – even late summer weddings – always feel a little more casual and relaxed. And, in my opinion, a suit is too formal.

Because most late summer weddings – actually, most weddings, I suppose – will start in the late afternoon and go into the evening, your blazer should be one that will make that day/night transition.

Something navy is simple and classic. Find one with an interesting weave to capture some of the summer spirit.

Like seersucker, a linen trouser, may just be a touch too casual. It also won’t transition well from day to night. A wool cream trouser, on the other hand, is much more appropriate in the evening. And a cuff adds the right amount of formality.

Thanks, as always, for reading and have a great weekend.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Guest Dress: Late Summer Wedding first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Here are your Monday updates

The inside of the Oculus – or as I like to call it, the “whale skeleton” – and its corridors were once empty, full of endless marble, and very serene. And now? It’s a shopping center.

I try not to share too many advertising news stories here, but this Adobe Marketing “Snakebite” video is pretty great.

And if you haven’t already seen it, this 88-year old nun from Nike’s new Unlimited ad is way tougher than you and me both.

We asked five lovely women for their honest thoughts about guys with a five o’clock shadow. All (minus Brian’s mom) approve!

If you were getting your news gossip from Gawker, you’re going to need to find a new source. After 14 years, they are closing up shop.

Holy flashback, Batman! Adam West et al. are reprising their roles from the original Batman series this fall.

The great sock debate continues. Though I thought we’d already figured that out. Like, twice.

With every new season, there are new designers to watch. Here are 10 picks via GQ.

Personally, I think “Are you surviving this disgusting heatwave?” is just as much of a generic email greeting as “Hope all is well”. But apparently the former is still better than the latter.

If Brian ever disappears without warning, it’s possible he did this to me and I took him out.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Robin West
He Spoke Style

The post The Oculus, Snakebites & Awesome Practical Jokes first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Let’s get down to business with the classic and unstoppable blue suit

There’s nothing like a classic blue suit. But you already know that.

Here’s an HSS-approved, office-ready look for the end of summer and into early fall.

| WEARING | QG Custom suit, Al Bazar shirt, Suitsupply tie, IWC watch, Oliver Peoples sunglasses, Briefcase, c/o ONA, Ermengildo Zegna pocket square, Shoes c/o Tommy Hilfiger | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Your shirt collar will always set the tone of your look. A forward point collar is perhaps the most common, though it can be made a bit more interesting via a collar pin. A spread collar is a little more daring, though still on the conservative side. And a cutaway collar, like the one worn here, is the most style-forward.

One question we get all the time is what color tie to wear with a blue suit. One of the best things about a blue suit is that it will accept just about any color tie – it’s very much a blank canvas. So the tie you choose depends a lot on the occasion.

For a business look, a navy tie with an unassuming pattern is a good choice. Going monochromatic always projects confidence.

Choose your shoes as much for the situation/occasion as your shirt collar. A cutaway collar always sends off some Italian vibes, so what better to match that than a pair of double monk straps?

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Back To Business: Classic Suit Style first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

An explanation of why we like Instagram Stories a lot better than Snapchat

“Hey, are you on Snapchat?” This is a question I’ve fielded more times than I can count over the past year. And the answer is, no, HSS is not on Snapchat. And there are no plans to start a Snapchat channel for HSS.

So why aren’t we on Snapchat?

For a few reasons.

First of all, it’s just one more thing that we would have to do. And, to be completely honest, between the website – which we will never stop putting time into – our Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, YouTube and Pinterest, there’s simply not enough time in the day to devote to yet another social channel.

We prefer to focus on what we do best and to make sure we’re producing that product at a continuously high level.

Second, Snapchat just isn’t us. Beyond its salacious reputation – maybe that’s changed since its first introduction? – it seems to appeal to a younger demographic. And we know that demographic is not the typical HSS reader.

Third, the general way we’ve seen it used – oversharing and an insecure cry for attention and approval from the anonymous masses – really grates on us. It’s the kind of narcissism that should be a signal to “fans” and followers that what people are doing is all about them and not about you. And what’s the value proposition in that for you as a follower other than to make you jealous?

Here at HSS, we’re all about providing value for you, our readers, and not fluffing our own feathers for the sake of fluffing them. But we’re pretty sure you know that already.

However, we are using Instagram Stories…

…which might seem hypocritical given that it’s very obviously Instagram’s answer to Snapchat. But you know what? We really like Instagram Stories. And here’s why.

First and foremost, IG Stories is a part of Instagram. No need for a completely different channel. You could argue that Instagram Stories still requires more time, effort and extra work, which might not be completely untrue. But when the app you already use is open and there’s not a huge learning curve – or need to build a new audience from zero – it makes it a whole lot easier.

Second, along those same lines, we like that we’re able to provide our existing Instagram audience a different, if not more immediate, view of HSS. Our feed is highly curated – there’s a reason we call it as the HSS art gallery – and we like the immediacy and personality we can present through Instagram Stories to complement our imagery and your understanding of who we are.

Could video kill the Instagram star?

Oh, absolutely. While we certainly hope through Instagram Stories to deepen the existing connection we have with our followers, there is a definite possibility that seeing “behind the curtain” can have quite the opposite effect. I like to use the following analogy.

I like listening to pop radio, but I truly hate watching videos these days because I don’t like the image I’ve created in my head around the song to be ruined by an awful, tasteless piece of visual trash. This has happened to me way too many times.

And versions of that have already happened to me several times with Instagram Stories. Like, wow, some people whose photos I really liked also happen to be particularly obnoxious, insufferable, into themselves and annoying. It’s a serious letdown and has the unfortunate effect of me losing a ton, if not all, respect for them.

At HSS, we do not wish to let you down like that.

So how do we plan to use Instagram Stories?

As with any new platform – or extension of an existing platform – our usage of it may evolve over time. But as of this writing, here are the ways we plan to use Instagram Stories.

1. To give you a behind-the-scenes glimpse of what we do and how we do it.

2. To show you a different – and maybe sometimes a somewhat fun – look at the content we publish here on the site. You may have seen this yesterday. Or perhaps today…

3. To provide a backstage pass and exclusive access to events we attend.

4. To give you the opportunity to ask anything via The Sunday Q & A.

5. To present a measured dose of daily life.

Regarding the last point, I’m going to impose the same logic as the favorite line of many a mom, “if you don’t have anything nice to say, don’t say anything at all”. So in the case of Instagram Stories, if we don’t have anything interesting to share, we won’t share anything at all. I think that’ll keep all of us much happier.

So that’s how we plan to use Instagram Stories, but as you’ll recall, HSS is about you. And now it’s your turn to chime in.

What would you like to see from HSS on Instagram Stories?

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Why We Like Instagram Stories first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

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Thoughts on the merits and drawbacks of the five o’clock shadow

We’ve already heard what the women think, now it’s time for the guys to share some thoughts on stubble, a.k.a. the five o’clock shadow.

Adam Lehman, Writer at He Spoke Style

Ah, stubble. I have such mixed feelings! Well, maybe not that mixed. To be honest, I love stubble, especially in today’s fashion environment.

One of the things I’ve really enjoyed about recent menswear trends has been the movement away from super-clean, permed and pressed, and razor sharp towards a more relaxed, effortless, and a little rough-around-the-edges kind of feel.

In that way, I think that a bit of well-maintained scruff attached to a decent sense of fashion has the same effect as a vintage tee under a relaxed blazer, or some perfectly faded jeans. Sure, crisp and clean has it’s place, but I’ve been extra enthusiastic about a well-executed ‘I woke up like this’ look.

So where do my mixed feelings come in? Pretty much entirely from the fact that I’m unable to grow some decent-looking stubble myself. Damn you, Dad, for passing on some generally lacking facial hair genes!

My stubble comes in bare in some patches, brown in some and blond in others, and somehow makes my already young-looking face look even younger. The facial hair equivalent of a kiddo playing dress-up in his dad’s clothes.

If I could grow some quality stubble, I’d be a stubbly guy through-and-through, but I’ve resigned myself to a scruff-free life and moved on.

Aleksandar Cvetkovic, Writer at The Rake

Stubble is a funny one. At once associated with rugged, debonair, strong-jawed heartthrobs, its also commonly associated with scruffiness and dishevelment – a funny balance to get right.

Myself, I’ve always kept to the view that one should make the effort to either be properly bearded or else clean-shaven. My logic being that if you’ve got a suitably strong-jawed face, you’ve got no need for facial hair

However, if you want to work a bit more shape into your face, a well cut and clean-lined beard is the best way to do it. Stubble can actively detract from the shape and lines of one’s face, rather than sharpen them.

I also maintain that a polished look, with a well-pressed shirt, sharp suit and tie, lends itself to either a crisp clean shaven look, or a well-groomed beard. But, then, I am rather a traditionalist and have appallingly chubby cheeks, so I’m rather biased on the subject.

Luke Ditella, Model and Ex-Pro Surfer

I prefer stubble over a clean shaven look. Stubble adds depth. It’s versatile in comparison to longer facial hair. For me, it works whether I happen to be wearing a suit or jeans and a tee. I feel like it conveys a little bit of edginess. Like you wouldn’t be afraid of a fist fight.

Alex Mroz, Goorin Bros. Shopkeeper

I am a devout stubble practitioner. To my mind, stubble is the forgotten hero in the great debate between beards and being clean shaven. I hate that in the debate, as with most things men’s style-related, there is no right answer and I have alternated between all three – classic clean shaven, a full, well kept beard, and three to nine day long stubble. Interestingly, it’s the latter I get the most positive feedback about.

I’ve often wondered why and here’s the best I can come up with.

Stubble is the closest you can get (in terms of facial grooming) to sprezzatura, that perfectly imperfect nonchalance that also happens to look masculine and add some depth of look without the cumbersome baggage that a beard carries in some people’s minds, but certainly not the studied structure and babyface cleanliness that a once a day shaver portrays.

Beards are fun but they’ve become “A Thing”, and unfortunately, proper upkeep is largely just not happening out there. A smooth, clean shaven face has it’s time and place but I find it can be a bit boring after a while.

Good stubble has the advantage of being fleeting, like a sunset. And it just looks natural and easy – like a good tan in July or faded denim jeans.

Brian Sacawa, Founder of He Spoke Style

Whenever I think about stubble, I always think about the section of the humorous book, The Hipster Handbook, devoted to men’s facial hair styles.

Among the many different examples is one called “The Permashadow” and the ensuing description says something about George Michael killing it. That always makes me laugh. But I digress.

The permashadow, or stubble or five o’clock shadow, is a facial hair style that I personally embrace. To me, it’s a rugged and masculine look. Plus, it also helps to define my jawline.

I totally agree with Alex that stubble is sort of the grooming equivalent of sprezzatura. It takes some upkeep to get that perfectly disheveled look. The magic stubble formula for me is three days growth and then trimming the neck area with my clippers set to a ‘1’.

That said, there are definitely times to be clean shaven. Just like choosing an outfit, you’ve got to know the situation and occasion when it comes to rocking the five o’clock shadow or not.

What are your thoughts on stubble? Chime in below.

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post Stubble Or Clean Shaven? 5 Guys Discuss first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Everything you need to know about pin collar dress shirts and collar bars

With the possible exception of the tab collar, the pin collar might be the most rare of the classic men’s collar styles today. While occasional flares in popularity have kept it from disappearing altogether, it’s never really been a piece that’s made it into the mainstream style lexicon, even among the more sartorially-inclined crowds.

That said, it’s a look that is certainly not wanting in style and charm, which makes it worth knowing regardless of whether you’ll wear one yourself.

Functionally, a pin collar shirt is right in line with a tab collar. While tab collar has an extended tab of fabric that buttons under the tie, a pin collar shirt replaces the tab with a bar.

About halfway up each point of a pin collar shirt is a small hole. A bar is threaded through both holes under the knot of the tie and fastened with an element on each side. The bar ends usually screw on and come in a variety of designs, from little barbell-type attachments to jewels.

Alternatively, a self-fastening pin similar to a safety pin can be used even without the built-in bar holes – just poke the pin through a standard collar.

DON’T MISS: How To Wear a Collar Pin

Just like a tab collar, the bar elegantly lifts the knot of the tie, creating a luxurious and sprezzy arch below the tie knot while also holding the knot itself firmly in place. Contrary to a tab, though, the bar is designed to be seen and adds some additional flair to a buttoned-up look.

| BRIAN WEARS | Knot Standard suit, Edward Sexton pin collar shirt, Brooks Brothers tie, Drake’s pocket square, Rolex watch, Shoes c/o Allen Edmonds | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

As mentioned, while never wildly popular or ubiquitous like the more standard collar styles – i.e. forward point, spread, or button-down – the pin collar has had it’s moments in the sun, most notably in the early 1900s.

In those days, your embellishments and flair showed your status, and a snazzy bar was another way to do so. Fred Astaire was also known to wear one around those times, and we all know that a celebrity endorsement never hurts either.

The look popped back up in the 1960s and then again in the 1980s thanks to a certain Gordon Gekko of Wall Street fame. His notorious power suit ensembles often included a pin collar shirt with collar bar, along with his statement-making bold stripes and bossy suspenders.

Today, a proper pin collar shirt is a moderately hard item to find off the rack, but you can hunt one down if you’ve got your heart set on it. Edward Sexton makes a great version – worn here by Brian – for our friends at The Rake.

As is often the case, you just need to be a little careful about how you wear it. Like a tab collar shirt, a pin collar shirt should never be worn sans tie. The empty holes or exposed bar will just look out of place, like you forgot a part of your outfit.

Beyond that, treat the bar like a piece of jewelry. It’s a bit flashier and also a bit dressier. Therefore, while not appropriate at more casual or more somber events like a BBQ or a funeral, it’s be perfect for business, a gala, or formal party.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

The post Style Defined: Pin Collar first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

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16 rules to live by courtesy of our resident “italian guy” and bona fide style icon

It’s no secret that we love Giampaolo Alliata’s style. He’s one of our all-time greatest style icons and someone that everyone could (and should) learn something from.

Here are a few takeaways via Giampaolo’s Instagram account.

Rule No. 1:

A photo posted by giampaolo (@giampaolo_alliata) on Apr 12, 2015 at 10:33pm PDT

Monochromatic looks always make the right kind of statement.

Rule No. 2:

A photo posted by giampaolo (@giampaolo_alliata) on Jun 23, 2016 at 10:07pm PDT

Know how to wear suspenders. And don’t believe the man who says it shouldn’t be done with belt loops.

Rule No. 3:

A photo posted by giampaolo (@giampaolo_alliata) on Feb 7, 2016 at 10:26pm PST

A turtleneck under a blazer is always a solid style move. But a turtleneck under a double-breasted blazer takes it to the next level.

Rule No. 4:

A photo posted by giampaolo (@giampaolo_alliata) on Dec 20, 2015 at 10:26pm PST

Have fun with your accessories.

Rule No. 5:

A photo posted by giampaolo (@giampaolo_alliata) on Oct 4, 2015 at 10:42pm PDT

Olive green isn’t just for Army guys. Unless you consider yourself to be part of the Army of Style. Zing!

Rule No. 6:

A photo posted by giampaolo (@giampaolo_alliata) on Jul 2, 2015 at 10:29pm PDT

Wear clothes you love so much that they make you dance.

Rule No. 7:

A photo posted by giampaolo (@giampaolo_alliata) on May 17, 2015 at 10:31pm PDT

Only a real man knows how (and when) to wear pink.

Rule No. 8:

A photo posted by giampaolo (@giampaolo_alliata) on Nov 23, 2014 at 10:35pm PST

At the end of a long, hard day, jump right into the tub and smoke a cigar.

Rule No. 9:

A photo posted by giampaolo (@giampaolo_alliata) on Nov 2, 2014 at 10:49pm PST

You don’t have to be over the top to make a statement with color.

Rule No. 10:

A photo posted by giampaolo (@giampaolo_alliata) on Sep 28, 2014 at 12:01am PDT

Know how to rock white chinos and a denim shirt.

Rule No. 11:

A photo posted by giampaolo (@giampaolo_alliata) on Jul 13, 2014 at 10:51pm PDT

Easily transition from day to night by just losing the tie.

Rule No. 12:

A photo posted by giampaolo (@giampaolo_alliata) on Jun 15, 2014 at 11:47pm PDT

Dress so well you become a work of art (or end up on the cover of a book).

Rule No. 13:

A photo posted by giampaolo (@giampaolo_alliata) on May 4, 2014 at 2:46am PDT

Own a pair of white leather sneakers for the weekend.

Rule No. 14:

A photo posted by giampaolo (@giampaolo_alliata) on Jan 10, 2014 at 9:40am PST

One bracelet isn’t enough sometimes. Know when that time is.

Rule No. 15:

A photo posted by giampaolo (@giampaolo_alliata) on Mar 31, 2016 at 10:50pm PDT

Brown is the new black.

Rule No. 16:

A photo posted by giampaolo (@giampaolo_alliata) on Jun 29, 2015 at 10:32pm PDT

A man always looks better with love in his life.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Homepage image via Guerreisms; post featured image by Rob McIver Photo

The post Rules of Style According to Giampaolo Alliata first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

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What makes aviators so damn cool?

There’s something intrinsically badass about aviator sunglasses. In fact, of all the different styles of sunglasses, I would say that none of the others even come close to projecting the same brand of cool.

A guy wearing aviators gives off a certain vibe, a certain je nais se quoi. He’s too cool for school. Too cool to be bothered with or care about the mundane, stupid shit that the rest of society gets hung up on.

There’s a nonchalance to this kind of badass. And a leather jacket or leather pants are not required to achieve this state.

Just add aviators.

Aviators are interesting in the sense that some people look like they belong in them while others completely shy away from the style, saying they just can’t pull them off or citing a face shape that isn’t particularly conducive to the style.

Formerly being in the latter camp, I can tell you from personal experience that anyone can wear aviators. Anyone. Though they tend to be on the larger side, you can find a pair that fits a smaller or more narrow face.

Just look at the numbers on the inside of the arms of the sunglasses. The first number will tell you the width of the lens in millimeters. If you have a smaller face, look for a lens width of about 52mm.

| WEARING | Z Zegna suit, Banana Republic shirt, Sunglasses c/o Nautica, IWC watch, Shoes c/o Tommy Hilfiger | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

I can also tell you, that wearing aviators requires a certain state of mind. They do look ultra cool. Embrace the look and use it to your advantage to project some confidence.

When looking for aviators, be sure to choose a pair with polarized lenses. Polarized lenses don’t just cut down on glare, but they also eliminate harmful UVA/UVB rays.

The pair I’m wearing from Nautica, not only check that box, but also deliver distinctive and timeless style and design. In black, they’re also modern, sophisticated and an easy way to give your everyday look a badass upgrade.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

This post is sponsored by Nautica. The opinions expressed herein are mine alone and are not indicative of the opinions or positions of Nautica.

The post Instant Badass: Just Add Aviators first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

And the rest of you Monday stuff

We published our first story for The Rake last week, featuring Baltimore’s own Samuel Parker Clothier. If you’re in the area, definitely give Ken a visit!

We’re big fans of the Governor’s Island yearly Jazz Age Lawn Party, and this man is really the main star of it.

If you need a dose of funny in your Instagram feed, Brooklyn Cartoons is my favorite new find.

We talked about email greetings last week. Now, it seems like we can turn to AI for some more help to avoid being boring.

Okay, it’s time. Let’s talk about fall dressing, shall we?

Another year, another fall where people are waiting for olive green to have a moment.

Green may be a hit or miss for some, but gray flannel is always a guaranteed yes.

Some of Google’s “biggest trends” for 2016 happen also to be on our list of ones to avoid.

With age comes wisdom. So, let’s look to our grandfathers for some style tips.

And, Robert Redford.

And, maybe our fathers?

Brian has worn Breton stripes on HSS before, and this classic is having a big moment this year.

We’re doing a staycation in NYC (and possibly Philly) this weekend. Any spots we need to head to before the crowds come back? Let us know in the comments!

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Robin West
He Spoke Style

All images via @brooklyncartoons

The post Our New Favorite Funny Instagram Account first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

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On the origins of the no white after Labor Day myth

Summer isn’t quite over yet, but we’re going to be transitioning towards fall this week on HSS as we bring back our monthly editorial theme this Thursday.

However, there’s one timely topic we’d like to address prior to this weekend and that is the no white pants after Labor Day myth.

Do just a little reading on the topic and you’ll find a wide (and wild) number of theories on why this is even a thing. Among our favorites – and what I personally find to be the most plausible – is that the no white after Labor Day “rule” was, more than anything, symbolic.

| WEARING | Suitsupply blazer, Brooks Brothers Black Fleece shirt, J.Crew jeans, Oliver Peoples sunglasses, IWC watch, Tateossian and Cantini MC Firenze bracelets, To Boot New York loafers | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

In the early part of the last century, white was what was worn by Americans who were wealthy enough to spend their summers outside of the sweltering city heat.

And while they were escaping the city where they lived and worked, they were also symbolically escaping the fashion (or uniform) that went along with that work. A uniform of white linen was a stark and refreshing contrast to a suit and tie.

Labor Day, the traditional end of summer, marked their re-entry into the city, work life and reality. So the white clothing went away and the darker work clothing returned.

There was an element of class involved as well. Originally, this was something done by the wealthy. But with the rise of the middle class in the mid part of the century, more and more people started to adopt the “rule” as a way to appear more upwardly mobile.

Interesting theory, but as with anything fashion related, there’s usually little rhyme or reason as to why something trends or gets institutionalized in such a way.

Here at HSS, you know how we feel about the rules and this is one that should be thrown out. Though it is interesting to debate.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Is It Really Time To Put the White Pants Away? first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

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A guide on how to avoid being “that guy” at your local cigar lounge

The cigar lounge is a place for relaxation, a place for savoring a fine cigar with a dram of whiskey and a place to meet new people, make connections and enjoy some pleasant conversation.

The cigar lounge is also a place that comes with its own set of rules, by which all present should abide.

Here’s our guide to proper cigar lounge etiquette.

Cigar Lounge Etiquette: The Don’ts

1. Don’t talk politics or religion.

One of the best parts of the cigar lounge experience is the camaraderie that develops, even with complete strangers. You’re sharing a common experience and, most likely, will share similar interests as well.

A surefire way to ruin that dynamic and stink up the lounge even more than by lighting up a cigarette – N.B. don’t ever do that either – is to bring up politics or religion. Unless you’re with a very close knit group of friends who you know share your views, keep them to yourself and don’t even bring the subject up.

2. Don’t blow smoke in someone’s face.

We’re going to admit that this can sometimes be difficult. Depending on the air filtration system, air conditioning or ceiling fans, you can never be completely sure which way the wind is going to be blowing in the lounge.

Which is a long way of saying that it’s bound to happen unintentionally at some point. If it does, move to a different chair if one is available, angle yourself in such a way as to minimize it, or simply go out of your way to blow the smoke in a different direction.

3. Don’t judge others’ cigar choice.

With cigars, as with anything – wine, whiskey, women – taste is subjective. What one man loves, another may find repulsive. And in the case of whiskey or wine, price is not necessarily an indicator of quality.

When a man chooses a cigar, he’s choosing one based on his tastes and what he knows he’s going to like right then and there in that particular situation. If it’s a Rocky Patel Edge and not a Padron 1964 Family Reserve 50 Year Anniversary, that’s totally fine. Who is anyone to judge?

4. Don’t ask to try someone else’s cigar.

Chris, Rob and I have a funny story of an encounter we had with two strangers who approached us once mid-herf. One gentleman – and I use that term loosely – gesturing to one of our cigars, asked if he could “hit that”. His more educated comrade said scoldingly, “Damn, you don’t smoke another man’s cigar! What’s wrong with you?!” and then proceeded to smack him upside the head.

Exactly. Once you light up a cigar, it’s a personal experience. If you’re curious about how it tastes, ask your buddy to describe it. And then if it sounds intriguing, buy one for yourself. This isn’t passing the dessert around at dinner with friends. This is cigar smoking.

5. Don’t be a mooch.

This applies to mooching cigars off of your friends as well as pouring more than your fair share of someone else’s whiskey. In general, guys have no problem sharing a cigar or pour of liquor from time to time, but we all know that person who always seems to have forgotten a cigar or didn’t bring his own bottle. Don’t be that guy.

6. Don’t stamp out your cigar in the ashtray.

Like the proper way of holding a cigar, the way you end the cigar smoking experience needs to be filled with respect. Nothing telegraphs that you’re a cigar noob more than stubbing your cigar out in the ashtray. You should always just set it down and let it go out on its own.

Cigar Lounge Etiquette: The Do’s

7. Do offer your cutter and lighter.

This one speaks for itself. However, if you’re on the receiving end of someone else’s cutter and lighter, be sure to return them to their owner promptly after use.

8. Do offer your to share your whiskey with others.

Don’t bogart the Bulleit. Or Michter’s Or whatever else you may happen to have brought with you or keep in your locker. Bring only what you’re comfortable sharing because it you tote in that bottle of Pappy 23, you’re obligated to give everyone a taste!

9. Do ask politely to join an already-smoking group of strangers.

Maybe they’re a group of friends on an outing. Maybe they’re in a business meeting. Although many guys like to shoot the shit with whoever’s in the lounge, some may not want to and/or might be there for a specific purpose. You won’t know until you ask. Just be polite.

10. Relax and enjoy yourself.

That’s why you’re there, right?

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post Cigar 101: Cigar Lounge Etiquette first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

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Our definitive guide to men’s dress shirt collars

There are a lot of choices when it comes to dress shirt collar styles. What makes each collar style special? What does each collar say about you? And for what kind of occasion is each collar style best suited? You’ve got questions, we’ve got answers.

Here’s our definitive guide to dress shirt collars.

1. The Forward Point Collar

The forward point collar (or just ‘point collar’) dress shirt is possibly the most traditional shirt in the menswear lineup.

Distinguishing Quality: The narrow distance between the collar points, which is often not covered by a jacket’s lapels.

What It Says About You: You’re a no-nonsense traditionalist who appreciates the classics.

Our Advice: The forward point collar shirt is your everyday, basic, workhorse kind of shirt. Every guy should have one, no matter whether he’s an only-wear-dress-shirts-’cause-I-have-to kind of guy or someone who invests a great deal of time into cultivating his personal style.

2. The Button-Down Collar

Like many classic menswear garments, the button-down collar was first and foremost a practical innovation. Polo players introduced them as a way to keep their collars from flapping in their faces while riding. It was first offered to the public by Brooks Brothers and has been a staple of classic, preppy style ever since.

Distinguishing Quality: The buttons.

What It Says About You: You prefer to stay tailored but don’t always want to wear a tie. Plus, you like to keep a little prep in your step.

Our Advice: Like the forward point collar shirt, the button-down shirt should be a staple of every guy’s wardrobe. It’s more relaxed, very American and looks great with, or without, a tie. Yes, you can wear a tie with a button down shirt. We asked the style gods. They said it was cool.

3. The Spread Collar

The spread collar is very much the middle ground of dress shirt collars. If the forward point collar is for the strict traditionalist and the cutaway collar is for the sprezzy trendsetter, the spread collar falls comfortably in the sweet spot between the two.

Distinguishing Quality: The elegant and symmetrical way the collar points end and disappear right where they meet the jacket.

What It Says About You: You enjoy putting time and effort into your style but are still more conservative than you are Italian. (Or, you work in a corporate environment and want to stand out, but not too much.)

Our Advice: The spread collar shirt is really your “no wrong answer” kind of shirt. It works in just about every situation imaginable, won’t get you in trouble for any kind of employer dress code/style violation and just looks damn good. Too easy.

4. The Tab Collar

Though we’ve called the forward point collar the OG dress shirt, but in all actuality, the tab collar has been around even longer. We’re talking like before the development of the modern shirt collar, back when collars were removable and not attached to the rest of the shirt. It’s a rare style these days and hard to find, but for the true style buff, it’s worth the hunt.

Distinguishing Quality: The tab fastened by a button hidden underneath the tie knot.

What It Says About You: You know that the best (and most stylish) details are the ones that aren’t necessarily seen.

Our Advice: Seen from afar, the tab collar shirt is basically just a forward point collar shirt. Which makes it a great alternative for the conservative dresser who really, really wants to do something sartorial but isn’t comfortable in a cutaway collar shirt. They’re a bit hard to come by these days. If you’re serious, get one made from a quality made to measure program.

5. The Cutaway Collar

A cutaway collar is a bold, modern and sartorially-advanced style choice. Following the rigid, longer and narrower collars of the 1920s, the cutaway collar dress shirt emerged in the 1930s. This collar style is sometimes referred to as a Windsor collar, alluding to it’s origin as a means to fit Windsor tie knots.

Distinguishing Quality: The aggressive angle at which the collar “cuts away” from your face.

What It Says About You: You’re a confident, bold and sartorially-inclined individual, who probably wishes he spoke better Italian.

Our Advice: The cutaway collar is not for everyone. If you’re at all on the fence about it, go with a spread collar instead. But if it’s your thing, it can be easily become “your look” for just about every kind of occasion, ranging from office to date to wedding.

6. The Band Collar

Whether a standard band collar, a Mandarin, or Nehru collar, band collar shirts are quite simply shirts with just a band for the collar (i.e. no collar at all). More elaborately, it’s a shirt that eschews the go-to turn-down collar, instead being formed from a singular, flat band of cloth that runs around the neck.

Distinguishing Quality: A complete and total lack of collar.

What It Says About You: Rules do not weight heavily on your mind. You like to experiment, take risks and are confident enough in your personal style to do so.

Our Advice: While there are certainly dressy versions of the band collar shirt, it works best, in our opinion, worn more casually or sharp casually. In dressy form, we think it comes off as a little try-too-hard. But as a more casual piece, it’s cool and whimsical. It’s really the perfect shirt for travel and summer vacations.

7. The Club Collar

The club collar emerged as a way for students at Eton college to “distinguish” themselves and their uniforms from that of other schools. They took the standard collar points and merely rounded them off. Et voilà! The ‘Eaton collar’ was born. The collar style soon soon became knows as the ‘club collar’ in reference to that “special club membership” it signified.

Distinguishing Quality: The rounded ends of the collar.

What It Says About You: You know that style is about having a little fun now and then, and you know exactly when it’s the right time for it.

Our Advice: There is a definitel time and place for a club collar shirt. You’ve kind of got be a bit of a style veteran and go by feel to know when it’s right. By nature, the club collar is a little dandy. In the wrong environment, it can come off as a costume piece. Works best for an elegant night out, cocktail party or semi-formal event.

8. The Pin Collar

Functionally, a pin collar shirt is right in line with a tab collar. While tab collar has an extended tab of fabric that buttons under the tie, a pin collar shirt replaces the tab with a bar. The bar elegantly lifts the tie knot, creating a luxurious and sprezzy arch below the tie knot while also holding the knot itself firmly in place.

Distinguishing Quality: The eyelets on each collar point that are fastened together with either a collar bar or a collar pin.

What It Says About You: You’ve devoted years to the study of classic tailored menswear and have found sartorial nirvana.

Our Advice: The occasion needs to be right for a pin collar shirt, especially if you’re using a collar bar. It’s dressy and is great for formal and semi-formal occasions as well as business, if you’ve established yourself as a sartorially-inclined individual. Substitute a collar pin for the bar to tone down the formality and increase the shirt’s versatility.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post The HSS Guide To Dress Shirt Collars first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

What business casual-related topics would you like to see covered this month on HSS?

It’s been a while since we’ve trotted out a monthly editorial theme – the last was Denim Month – but we’re in a comfortable enough spot right now that it seemed like a good time to revive it.

Why business casual?

Well, for starters, it’s one of those hard-to-pin-down kinds of dress codes. Depending on who you are and where you work, it could mean something completely different.

Second, despite a wide variety of interpretations, we believe that within business casual there are some key elements that are useful no matter what type of job you have.

It’s going to take an entire month to explain this damn dress code!

So, in our editorial meetings leading up to September, these two items have been our jumping off point. And we’ve got a fair amount of content in the queue already.

But, HSS is nothing without you, our readers, and we want to know what you are curious about with regards to business casual. Chime in below and tell us what kind of coverage you want to see and we’ll do our best to customize some content just for you.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post Balance Point: Welcome to Business Casual Month on HSS first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

some of the best Vintage Rolex watches worth the hunt and investment

Collecting vintage Rolex watches, like many similar higher end pastimes, can be somewhat of a slippery slope, but a greatly enjoyable one at that.

In many cases, after new collectors get their feet wet in the vintage Rolex market with something like a standard Ref. 5513 Submariner, for example, they find themselves looking for more unique and rarer examples when it comes time for their next timepiece.

DON’T MISS: 10 Things To Understand Before Buying a Vintage Rolex

For those looking to invest their time and money into the most desirable and coveted vintage Rolex references that are still in existence today, we’ve picked our Top 10 vintage Rolex watches worthy of what true aficionados elevate to “grail status”.

Without further ado, let’s begin.

‘Paul Newman’ Daytona

In every important watch collection, you’re bound to find at least one Rolex Daytona. Which should come as no surprise, given the unparalleled history and erudition that surrounds this legendary chronograph. If you happen to be in the market for one of these, and a conventional example just won’t do, the ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona is the way to go.

The iconic photo of Paul Newman wearing a Rolex Daytona. Image via Jake’s Rolex World.

Why is it referred to as the ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona? As the story goes, after Italian collectors noticed a Ref. 6239 featuring the exotic dial on the actor’s wrist in a notable photograph (shown above), they began to refer to it simply as the Paul Newman. And the rest, as they say, is history.

Ref. 6542 GMT Master

To this day, one of the most popular sports models in the Rolex lineup is the GMT Master. Designed with jet-setting individuals and professional pilots in mind, the Ref. 6542 was introduced in 1954, and stunned watch buyers with its vibrant red and blue, ‘Pepsi’-colored, bakelite bezel. Combine that with a clean, glossy gilt dial, and a either a Jubilee or Oyster bracelet, or even an aftermarket leather strap as pictured above, and you’ve got an incredibly good-looking specimen.

Ref. 6541 Milgauss

When they introduced their first Milgauss in 1956, Rolex truly cemented the fact that they produced watches for professionals in nearly every field. In the case of the Milgauss, Rolex targeted the scientific community, as the watch featured an internal Faraday cage that could protect the movement from strong magnetic fields. The watch was also rather easy on the eyes, which didn’t hurt either, with it’s distinctive lightning bolt seconds hand.

Military Submariner

Although all vintage Submariners do possess an indescribable rugged charm, few standard issue Submariners are as impressive on the wrist as the Ref. 5517 and 5513/5517 military Submariners. Issued exclusively to enlisted members of the British military, these fixed bar dive watches are commonly regarded as some of the ultimate tool watches. They are also, quite possibly, some of the rarest Submariners ever made.

“Stella” Dial Day-Date

Characterized by their bold, and often brightly colored dials, the “Stella” Day-Dates are yet another example of how Italian collectors have influenced the way certain Rolex models become known across the globe.

Since these exciting dials were known to glimmer under light, collectors began calling them ‘stella’, which means star in Italian. Rolex manufactured these dials in many colors, including green, pink, blue, yellow, and orange, so there really is a “Stella” dial Day-Date out there for everyone.

Space Dweller

The earlier Rolex Explorers are seen by many important collectors as some of the ultimate tool watches ever produced by Rolex. And while it could be said that the most interesting references in the line pre-date the Ref. 1016, there is one 1016 that might challenge this notion.

The watch I speak of is, of course, the Space Dweller. The Space Dweller is an ultra rare dial variant of the Explorer that Rolex produced to capitalize on the popularity of the Project Mercury astronauts’ 1963 visit to Japan. These watches were produced specifically for the Japanese market, and are highly collectible today.

“Patent Pending” Double Red Sea Dweller

Early on in the production of Rolex’s most distinguished dive watch, the Sea Dweller, some examples featured the words “Patent Pending” on the caseback. These two words make all the difference when it comes to putting a value on this watch, as “Patent Pending” examples have become exceedingly rare and sought after, if not coveted.

Interest to note, is that the “Patent Pending” designation is not peculiar to the Sea Dweller. It’s not uncommon to find the marking on pieces with military provenance, as many of these early Sea Dwellers were originally purchased by professional divers as tool watches.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Paul Altieri
He Spoke Style

Paul Altieri is the Founder and CEO of the popular pre-owned watch site Bob’s Watches.

The post 7 “Grail Worthy” Vintage Rolex Watches first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A cardigan is one of the most essential business casual pieces

The best part about building a wardrobe centered around the concept of versatility, is that you’re able to draw from pieces you already have in your closet to give one outfit a completely different look. Nowhere is that idea better illustrated than when it comes to workwear and jackets.

For many, a blazer worn to the office is de rigueur. But that doesn’t mean that you can’t (and shouldn’t) mix it up now and then. Maybe you’re feeling a little rebellious on any given Friday. For your commute, why not trade the blazer for a denim jacket?

Simple substitution. Maximum style benefit.

As we ease into our month-long conversation about the changeable dress code known as business casual, I thought that beginning with that simple concept – the big impact a very small substitution can have – was a good place to start.

And this is especially true when you’re talking about the cardigan, a bona fide business casual essential.

| WEARING | Uniqlo cardigan, Brooks Brothers shirt, PT01 pants, Gitman Bros. tie, Rolex watch, Loafers c/o G.H. Bass | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

One of the keys to the business casual dress code is mastering that “balance point” between your regular workwear and a more relaxed version of that. That’s why the cardigan is such a great blazer substitute in this situation. It’s not as structured as a blazer, yet it still appears “put together”.

Let’s talk about fit. A cardigan is meant to fit snugly, which means that it’s going to look fitted if you’re substituting it for a blazer. Over a spread collar shirt with knit tie and a pair of sharply tailored pants, it’s perfect.

Choose a fabric weight based on the season. For the fall transition and into fall, wear a lightweight merino wool. And when the temperatures fall, break out the chunky knits, which we’re fond of wearing with even more tailored looks.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Presenting Your “Substitute” Business Casual Blazer first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice