from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

It’s never too early to think about anti-aging, but it can be too late

In partnership with Jack Black.

Getting older is one of those things that kind of sneaks up on you. At least that’s how it has felt to me. I have a birthday next week and although I’m not quite hitting 40, I’m getting pretty close.

I like to believe that things improve with age, like a fine scotch or wine or a perfectly pantina-ed and gilt dial on a Rolex ref. 5513 or 1675. And although I know a lot of guys lament the aging process, it’s something that I’ve actually embraced.

I like the little salt and pepper that’s started to appear in my beard and on my temples. I used to be somewhat ashamed of my crow’s feet, but now I think they’re something of a signature of my look. And in general, I just feel older and wiser. And that’s a good thing. You can’t rush or “fake” any of those things you accumulate as you age.

Now, to be fair, I’ve been fortunate to not experience some of the things that many men find difficult about getting older. I haven’t lost any hair. I’ve actually gotten leaner rather than gaining weight. Part of that is genetic, but part of it is also maintenance and prevention.

Now, while I’d argue that there’s a lot that improves with age, there are certain things that don’t. Your skin, example. That’s one thing that’s extremely important to not let creep up on you. If you’re not paying attention to your face in your early-20s, there’s nothing you can do when you have an “oh, shit” moment in your late-20s or early-30s.

I used to think about this a lot when I was a bicycle racer. During those 10 years, I spent an inordinate amount of time exposing my skin to the sun. I knew it and I always took great care to liberally apply SPF. I’m glad I did, not just from a “looks” point of view, but also a health one.

As I approach 40, my focus has shifted to slowing down the aging process with maintenance and preventative measures in my skin care routine – specifically my nighttime regimen. As busy as I make my life and as ragged as I tend to run myself, I always make time at the end of the night to take care of my face.

Over the past month, I’ve had the opportunity to live with a trio of anti-aging products from Jack Black. And I have to tell you, I like the results. Here’s a breakdown of each step.

Step One: Power Peel

The product: Power Peel Multi-Acid Resurfacing Pads

If you’ve ever given skin care even a cursory thought, you know the importance of exfoliating. With the Power Peel you get an exfoliant pad that provides the results of a professional peel without the multiple steps or irritation. This is what makes your skin glow.

The Power Peel is not a daily-use product – two to four times a week. Use after washing your face and never after shaving. And make sure to have a good moisturizer.

Step Two: Protein Booster

The product: Protein Booster Skin Serum

Like watering a plant, you’ve got to feed your skin to keep it healthy. This is where adding proteins back into the mix becomes extremely important. I use the Protein Boost in conjunction with a moisturizer. It feels very light on the skin and smells really great.

Step Three: Eye Rescue

The product: Protein Booster Eye Rescue

Let’s face it, the skin around your eyes shows your age more than anything. It’s also some of the thinnest and most delicate skin you have and why proper maintenance and prevention is very important.

Technique is also important. Robin shared this pro-tip with me: when addressing this area, use your ring finger, as it is generally the weakest finger and dab the skin instead of pulling and stretching it.

Is anti-aging something you’ve been thinking about? Chime in below with your thoughts and share your nighttime skin care routine.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post A Nighttime Skin Care Routine To Stay Looking Young first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

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Outfit ideas that strike a balance

As business casual month draws to a close today, here are 10 HSS-certified business casual looks for fall.

1. Business Casual Cool

If you’ve got some room to play around – or you just want to set the style standard at your workplace – consider a denim jacket as an alternative to a traditional blazer. Obviously, this would just be as outerwear for the commute and not something you’d wear around the office all day. And go with a pair of killer kicks to complete the look.

2. Simply Classic

If you’ve been following along at home all month, you know that business casual is all about substitution, subtraction and judicious additions. This look falls into the substitution category. A knit tie and denim shirt in place of a traditional button-up and silk tie tones down the formality but keeps it looking classic.

3. The Extra Mile

Menswear is all about the details and well-appointed accessories. If you plan to go sans tie, throw on a simple silk scarf to easily elevate the look.

4. The Casual Cardigan

File this under Casual Friday. This is such a simple look, I think it’s easy to overlook or overthink when you’re in your daily routine. Remember that investing in great basics will always pay you back.

5. Jeans Acceptable

Not everyone will agree 1) that jeans look “right” with a blazer and tie and 2) that they’re acceptable as business casual attire. But if you do happen to agree, this could be a good look for you.

6. The Alternate Blazer

If you’re not feeling the blazer and a denim jacket is a little too fashion forward, substitute a cardigan instead.

7. Classic With a Twist

While vastly overused and one of our all-time least favorite menswear “categories”, there really is no other way to describe what a gingham shirt does to an otherwise classic outfit.

8. Soft & Stylish

A turtleneck is a great substitute for a shirt and tie. Soft, stylish and sophisticated.

9. Tie Optional

For a Friday that includes after work activities like cocktails with colleagues or a first date, lose the tie and trade your trousers for a pair of “in-between” dress pants.

10. Layered Sweater

Don’t forget the v-neck sweater! In a fair isle pattern layered under a plaid blazer is a perfect fall combination.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post 10 Ways To Do Business Casual This Fall first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Your life will be complete after the lede, but we recommend reading on anyway

Alec Baldwin’s impression of Donald Trump in this weekend’s SNL opener was just absolutely perfect – and so wrong – but in all the best ways.

It’s officially fall, let’s start layering!

Apparently, we’re at the point that we can’t tie our own sneakers anymore.

People have been talking about a modular phone release for some time now, is this week it?

South Park is promoting its 20th season by taking past seasons on the road with some pretty specific targeting.

We’re big fans of Zegna at HSS, so we are thrilled that they have teamed up with Mr. Porter to be accessible online.

If you’re looking for help with your next whiskey cocktail, Johnnie Walker has a bot just for you.

Bohemian Rhapsody just got even more engaging with VR.

If the myth about what Miles Davis said to First Lady Nancy Reagan is true, he’s even more badass than we thought.

The “all-rounder”? The “style icon”? What does your watch say about you?

“Leave the dog, take the cat!!!” This poor girl not only had to get her wisdom teeth pulled, but her brothers (and mom) pranked her into believing zombies were coming when she was high from surgery.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Robin West
He Spoke Style

Featured image via NBC

The post Alec Baldwin Does Trump & 10 Other Things To Know first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

What “first impression”-related topics would you like to see covered this month?

There’s that saying we’re all familiar with – don’t judge a book by its cover. It’s sound advice. I’m sure we can all recall at least one instance when we pegged someone completely wrong.

But the truth of the matter is that no matter how many times you tell yourself not to do such a thing, no matter how hard you try not to, we make assumptions about other people based on how they look.

Which brings us to another saying we all know very well – you never get a second chance to make a first impression

And that, loyal HSS readers, is what we’re going to explore this month.

If you read this site, you know that how you dress plays an extremely important role in how you are perceived by other people. And there are countless times when a positive first impression might actually matter more than most things in the world at that particular moment. A job interview? First date? And so on.

We’ll be diving into this topic rather quickly so now is the time to let us know what you want to see covered! Chime in below.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post Jury’s Out: Welcome To First Impressions Month on HSS! first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A guide to the uber-formal shawl lapel

With a shawl lapel, we’re right back to simple, self-explanatory menswear terms. A shawl lapel is exactly that – a shawl. That is, the lapel has no notch, no peak, but is a continuous strip of fabric running from lapel to collar to lapel, and only tapering off when it finally hits the button closure.

Generally, a shawl lapel is seen as one of the most formal lapel styles for a jacket. This is largely due to the fact that it’s used almost exclusively for tuxedo and formal dinner jackets. In these cases, the collar is usually a satin or grosgrain material in slight contrast to the jacket fabric. The lapel is usually black, but not always, as Brian wears here.

Likewise, a shawl lapel jacket will usually have all the other attributes of a formal tuxedo jacket. For example, a single button closure and an often-ventless tail.

That said, to throw a wrench in a seemingly simple style, it’s become far less unusual these days to see a designer employ a ‘high/low’ motif by using a shawl collar on a decidedly casual such as a linen blazer or soft-shouldered cashmere sport coat.

| BRIAN WEARS | Kingsman jacket, Ermengildo Zegna shirt, Dolce & Gabbana pants, Barney’s bow tie, Del Toro slippers | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Regardless, a shawl lapel is obviously not nearly as versatile as a notch lapel, or even a peak lapel. And as shameful as it is to be underdressed, it can be just as big of a faux pas to show up to a ‘sharp-casual’ dinner date in a tuxedo, which will only leave your date feeling quite uncomfortable.

Likewise, a shawl lapel is not appropriate on a business suit. In fact, it’s safe to say that it’s not for the day-to-day in general, and is better suited to special occasions.

Of course, in today’s quickly evolving world of men’s fashion, these rules are often put in flux. Heck, I personally have worn a shawl collar tuxedo jacket with a t-shirt and jeans, but it took the right occasion and the right crowd to pull it off.

In a world with so many choices, it’s become harder and harder to definitively say which are correct. But the trick to successful styling is to approach each with deliberation and purpose!

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

The post Style Defined: Shawl Lapel first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Introducing a limited edition travel blazer by Chester Barrie for The Rake

One of the perks of contributing to The Rake is that we’re able to get our hands on some pretty amazing stuff. (By the way, have you seen our latest piece? Waxing poetic on Old Hollywood style and glamor, or glamour, as my editor would say.) Case in point: this fantastic Chester Barrie travel blazer made exclusively for The Rake.

Let’s talk details first. The jacket is a wool, silk and linen blend – that’s a 70-20-10 split, if you’re keeping score – is half-lined and comes in the lightweight Chester Barrie structured house cut.

What all of that means is that you’re getting a classic British silhouette with a clean roped shoulder and hourglass shape, without heavier weight and structured formality more typical of traditional Savile Row tailoring. And you have the incredible fabric to thank for that.

| WEARING | Chester Barrie blazer, Neiman Marcus shirt, Yves Saint Laurent pants, Drake’s pocket square, IWC watch, Oliver Peoples sunglasses, Tateossian and Cantini MC Firenze bracelets, To Boot New York shoes | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Speaking of the fabric, you’ll notice that this jacket is called a “travel blazer”, a style that we’ve been seeing more and more of these days. What does it mean? Well, a travel blazer is meant for travel.

In other words, resistant to the creasing and wrinkling you’ll often incur as a result of sitting on planes and trains, folding or rolling your jacket up to store in overhead compartments, a duffle or suitcase.

I’ve had some experience with travel blazers in the past, but I have to tell you that this one is exceptional. I know this because when it arrived, it came in quite a small box and I thought that my steamer was going to have to use of all of its powers and all of its skills to de-wrinkle. Much to my surprise, one pass with the steam and the wrinkles just melted out. It was seriously like magic.

On the body, the jacket also feels amazing. I love wearing double-breasted blazers, but you generally know that you’re wearing a double-breasted jacket, if you know what I mean. This one, on the other hand, almost feels like you’re not wearing a jacket at all. It’s that nice.

That’s the good news. The bad news is that, as I mentioned up top, this is a limited edition piece and there were only 10 made. And according to the jacket’s shop page, there aren’t that many left.

Keep your fingers crossed that they’ve got your size, or if they don’t, write a note telling Chester Barrie and The Rake they need to do more collaborations like this one. We’ll all look better when we travel if they do!

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Casual British Elegance with Chester Barrie & The Rake first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

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A few guidelines on how to dress for the first day at a new job

Starting a new job is stressful. And the seemingly innocuous task of deciding what to wear to your first day in a new workplace can be anything but. The first impression you make to your new colleagues is an important one and you should certainly consider the consequences of how that first impression will resonate.

If you are working in a larger office, I think this is especially important. There are going to be people who see you who have no direct day-to-day contact with you and, like it or not, they’re probably going to form an opinion of you based on how you look when they see you from afar.

So what is the best course of action? Unfortunately, like most things business casual attire-related, it depends. Mostly it depends on the type of job, environment and culture you’re entering into. Yet there are some key points that can be applied across a variety of fields.

Here’s some guidance to help you out.

| WEARING | Reiss blazer, Michael Andrews Bespoke shirt, Banana Republic pants, Brooks Brothers tie, Rolex watch, Loafers c/o Allen Edmonds | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Don’t overdo it. The first day of a new job is not the time to show off or “peacock”. Stay away from bright colors – pocket squares, ties or “statement” socks – and anything that might be scare-quote stylish. So maybe the first day isn’t the best day to wear a bow tie. Unless, of course, you’d like to be known as the “bow tie guy” for your entire career. And, hey, maybe that’s your thing!

Err on the conservative side. This follows logically from the first point. Stick to basic menswear colors such as blues, greys and browns. And unless your office requires you to wear a suit, try a simple blazer and trousers combo. If you’ve invested in well-tailored garments, you’re going to look better than most of the men in suits anyway. And a well thought-out blazer/trousers look can show a lot more style acumen than a suit.

Show your style…subtly. Even when dressing conservatively, you can let people know you’re a stylish guy without broadcasting that you are “into style”. A simple windowpane plaid on your blazer, a peak lapel instead of a notch lapel, a tie with an interesting stripe pattern and even a pair of tassel loafers are easy ways to do this.

Get a read on the office culture and style. As you integrate into your new office, you’ll begin to get a sense of what’s possible (or acceptable) from a style point. I think it’s always best to ease into these sorts of things rather than to be upfront and in your face about it, especially if your office is more conservative. If you’re working in the fashion or fashion publishing industry, none of this applies to you!

People, dudes especially, will be more accepting if you ease into it. And, in fact, if after some time you start introducing some more advanced elements into your office look – think double monks, a cutaway collar or even a double-breasted blazer – the same dudes who might have given you a hard time at first will probably want some style advice from you. I know this because I’ve been there.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Dressing For The First Day At a New Job first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

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What is an oxford shoe?

In the world of men’s dress shoes, you may have noticed there are a gazillion different specific styles. In general, however, these tend to fall under two classifications: Oxfords and derbies. Like so many other more general menswear categories, the origin of the Oxford shoe is a bit uncertain, though there are two general schools of thought.

The first goes back to Oxford University, where the story is that the shoe style developed from a string of adjustments to the standard formal boots of the 1800s. Obviously, this is where the term ‘Oxford’ comes from, and seems to have stuck.

The other side of the story holds that the shoe was developed in Scotland around the same time. These are the folks who call the style ‘Balmoral’ after the Scottish castle of the same name.

Really, though, no one is quite certain, and it doesn’t really matter in the end. What does matter, is what exactly it means when your shoe salesman offers you a classic Oxford.

The difference comes down to a specific method of construction, with Oxfords being created with what’s called closed lacing. All that this means is that the flaps of leather that contain the lacing eyelets are sewn under the vamp rather than on top of it.

Now, I’ll jump right in with a word of caution. While this is pretty widely the accepted definition of an Oxford shoe, you’ll see the term thrown around willy-nilly with often no regard for the accuracy of its use.

Some folks use the term to designate any formal shoe. Some use the use ‘Oxford’ and ‘Balmoral’ interchangeably, while still others relegate each to an even more specific manner of stitching.

In France, neither term is used, and closed-lacing shoes are called ‘Richelieu,’ which is appropriately super-French. Really though, as long as you understand the association with closed lacing, you’ve got all the info you need.

As far as styling goes, an Oxford is generally considered a more formal shoe – or more accurately, formal occasions usually call for an Oxford over a derby. By nature of the more confined construction, an Oxford shoe is just naturally a bit sleeker.

Once laced, the visual effect of the closed lacing is that the shoe almost looks like a single piece of leather, with the distinctions between the different panels made very subtle. Designers also tend to embrace that sleekness and use more elegant lasts and other details when constructing their Oxfords.

Beyond that, you’ll find Oxfords of all styles, from boots to brogues to cap-toes and so forth. Sure, the ‘standard’ is often considered a single-stitched cap-toe, but at the same time wingtip brogues tend to be Oxfords rather than derbies, and both are hardly steadfast rules.

Instead, Oxford is really rather an umbrella term, with all the other classifications falling under it.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post Style Defined: Oxford Shoes first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

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A first date is one of the only occasions when you definitely do not want to be overdressed

Here’s a question for you: in general, is it better to be overdressed or underdressed? We actually took the temperature on this a couple of years ago and everyone thought, overwhelmingly, that it is always better to be overdressed rather than underdressed.

The reasons for this ranged from the ease with which you could pare down the dressiness of an outfit more adding something to an outfit that would be considered underdressed to the very real concern of looking like a slob in a room full of well-dressed individuals.

While I too subscribe to the notion that wearing a tie to an event that nobody else chose to is better than being the only guy without one, there are certain times when being overdressed isn’t the best idea. And a first date is one of those occasions.

When it comes to dating, obviously looks aren’t everything. But it can never hurt to put your best foot forward. You want to demonstrate that you care about looking nice (hopefully on the daily and not just for the date) but without going overboard or seeming like you’re trying too hard to impress. A three-piece tweed suit might not be the best first date attire unless you run in some very fancy social circles.

A first date is also not a time to experiment. You want to wear what you’re comfortable in because people certainly act different when they’re wearing things that don’t feel like them. I think we’ve all been in that situation before. So what’s the best formula and how do you walk that fine line? Here are a few tips.

| WEARING | Billy Reid jacket, Lardini waistcoat, J.Crew shirt, Levi’s jeans, Cartier watch, Jack Erwin boots | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Keep it simple. Stick to the basics here. Keep the colors muted and classic – blue, brown, black. Seriously. A bright red shirt to you might seem like you’re putting some effort in, but it’s just going appear like you’re trying too hard.

Wear dark jeans. It’s likely your first date is going to be a mildly casual affair – drinks or small plates perhaps? – so forgo tailored trousers for a pair of dark blue or black denim.

Add style in subtly. True style is all about subtly and there are plenty of ways to achieve this. First, instead of an OCBD, why not try a chambray shirt? It’s got some texture, is a little rugged, and is a simple way to go above and beyond without going too far.

Next, add in something tailored like a waistcoat. Only try this if you’ve made a habit of incorporating a waistcoat into your regular style. If it’s not something you normally do, it’s going to be distracting for you and, by osmosis, for your date as well.

Boot it up. Women pay attention to a man’s shoes. Every guy wears shoes, but not every guy has a nice pair of chelsea boots. If you don’t already have a pair, get some and see if it gets noticed.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post What To Wear On a First Date first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Another dose of internet curation to help you start your week off right

Bronze is making a comeback in the watch world. And speaking of wristwatches, be sure to check in tomorrow for something really special.

Don Draper Jon Hamm shares which style cues he’s kept from his years on Mad Men.

Just because drones can do most things nowadays, doesn’t mean you should trust them to do everything. Hope this kid already had is class photo taken…

Not sure why every type relationship needs a name and classification, but apparently they do. Introducing the “Bromosexual”.

We’ve come to the time where a font “is for men who wear dress shoes without socks”. Huh?

If it’s not too early to start making a Christmas/Hanukkah list, I’m putting this Yellow Submarine Lego set on mine.

Definitely not too early fall shopping round-up:

It’s leather jacket season, dress accordingly.

Thursday Boot Company just released your go-to fall boot. Brian has been rocking a similar pair by Allen Edmonds for the last few years many, many times, which honestly look better and better each season.

J.Crew has launched a cozy & rugged collaboration with Wallace & Barnes.

New for fall via the New York Times: preppy sweaters & Italian loafers.

If you’re looking for a new fragrance, don’t underestimate one of these scents that she’ll enjoy, too. And here are the HSS-approved fragrances from last fall that are still better than good for 2016.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Robin West
He Spoke Style

Featured image by Tomo Brejc via Mr Porter.

The post Menswear News To Use Plus a Fall Shopping Guide first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A first look at a very special limited edition Portugieser from IWC

In partnership with IWC.

It’s no secret that we’ve developed a pretty big passion for mechanical watches here at HSS. It’s a topic that follows naturally from our commitment to quality, timelessness – pun unintentional – elegance, attention to detail and respect for craftsmanship.

In that sense, we feel mechanical watches are the perfect complement to what you’re already accustomed to here on the site. Until now, we’ve just sort of waded into those waters, but for the first time, we’re excited to share something more in depth and very special with you from our friends at IWC.

Introducing the limited edition IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Hand-Wound Edition “D. H. Craig USA” Reference IW546306.

Before getting into some history what makes this watch so special, let’s take a closer look at some of the details. As a limited edition piece – only 27 of these watches are being made – it’s not surprising that we’re dealing with some exquisite materials and details.

An 18-carat red gold case and pin buckle. A silver-plated dial. A black Santoni alligator strap. The IWC hand-wound 98900 caliber with a 54-hour power reserve. And, of course, a gorgeous minute tourbillon at nine o’clock on the dial.

If you’re familiar with the other examples of the Reference 5436, you’ll obviously notice a lot of similarities. But the one difference – the F. A. Jones signed dial – clues us in to what makes this particular watch such a special one.

Florentine Ariosto Jones was IWC’s American-born founder and IWC is launching this watch to commemorate the centenary of his death. Jones is a significant figure in watchmaking for several reasons, though chief among them is the fact that IWC Schaffhausen is the only – let me emphasize that again, only – Swiss watchmaking company ever founded by an American.

In addition to being a tribute to F. A. Jones, this watch also pays homage to the namesake in its description – D. H. Craig. Daniel Hastings Craig was Jones’s uncle as well as a successful businessman. And IWC’s legacy owes almost as much to him than to Jones himself as he likely provided financial support when his nephew established IWC in Switzerland.

This isn’t the first time an IWC timepiece has carried the D. H. Craig inscription. IWC fans will know that Jones actually engraved his uncle’s name on one of the most exquisite movements he ever produced, the 2N Pattern H caliber.

In the mechanical watch world, every detail and design decision is made for a specific reason and the choice of the Portugieser for this watch is no exception. An icon of the IWC lineup, the Portugieser stands in the tradition of the pocket watches Jones made when the company was first established in Schaffhausen.

On the wrist, the watch wears extremely well. At 43 mm, it’s certainly on the larger side as a classic dress watch, but I have to tell you that it doesn’t look or feel as large as that number suggests.

To give you a bit of context, I have a fairly small wrist and feel most at home and at ease with a 36 mm case. And 40 mm is about where I top out. However, as you can see, even on my admittedly small wrist, it’s not imposing at all.

In terms of wearability, one other thing I feel compelled to point out is how versatile this watch is. With any precious metals timepiece – especially one with a tourbillon – I think it’s easy to jump to the conclusion that it can only be worn in extremely dressy settings. Not so here.

We deliberately styled it with a business casual tweed and chambray combo to illustrate this. And personally, I think it looks even more handsome in this context. Such is the case with a timepiece that is as timeless as it is elegant.

In addition to creating a watch that celebrates and preserves IWC’s history, with the launch of this special edition IWC is also supporting Save America’s Clocks, an organization committed to compiling an inventory of American street clocks and maintaining them.

In particular, IWC will work with Save America’s clocks to maintain and restore a street clock in New York City, where D. H. Craig was active as a businessman. An important piece of preservation from a brand committed to paying tribute to the fine craftsmanship and work found throughout its own history.

The IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Hand-Wound Edition “D. H. Craig USA” will be available exclusively at IWC’s US boutiques and select authorized retailers. Included with each watch is a numbered passport holder by Santoni and a copy of the the book F. A. Jones – His Life Legacy and Watches.

The price for this piece of IWC history is $57,000.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post The IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Hand-Wound Edition “D. H. Craig USA” first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Explaining the differences between notch lapel, peak lapel and shawl lapel

When considering suits and blazers, it’s easy to become so overwhelmed by the myriad choices of fabrics, patterns, and colors that you can easily look past the basics, like simple construction details.

More specifically, the lapel style of your blazer can say a lot. And while notch, a peak, or a shawl style lapels all have their place, and none is either a fail-safe bet or unequivocally avoided, your decision should be both informed and deliberate.

Here’s a quick guide to suit and jacket lapel styles. As always, click the images for a more in-depth history and explanation of each lapel style.

Notch Lapel

The notch lapel is a traditional, middle-of-the-road lapel choice and has long been the standard lapel style on single-breasted jackets. It tends to be seen as a bit more conservative, and therefore more appropriate for situations where an overly flashy look would be out of place.

Wear It To: Anywhere. A notch lapel is your go-to everyday jacket lapel style. It’s also great for some of those first impressions kinds scenarios, including your first day at a new job, job interview, first date, or meeting a significant others’ parents for the first time.

Looks Best On: Everyone. A notch lapel is simply timeless and classic.

Peak Lapel

The peak lapel falls into a kind of funky middle ground. On a structured business suit, it’s definitely a power move that puts it above a standard notch lapel. That said, it’s flashier at the same time, so maybe not a great choice for a young professional just starting to climb his way up the corporate ladder. It’s also seen as a more formal lapel style, which is why you’ll often find it on tuxedos as well.

Wear It To: Business meetings, lunches, dinners or cocktails at nice restaurants, anywhere in Italy.

Looks Best On: The dapperly suited sartorial set, businessmen, shorter men, guys carrying around a few extra pounds.

Shawl Lapel

A shawl lapel is a continuous strip of fabric running from lapel to collar to lapel, and only tapering off when it finally hits the button closure.Generally, a shawl lapel is seen as one of the most formal lapel styles for a jacket. This is largely due to the fact that it’s used almost exclusively for tuxedo and formal dinner jackets.

Wear It To: Black tie and other types of formal events.

Looks Best On: Everyone, if the proportions are right. Stay away from overly narrow shawl lapels.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa & Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post The HSS Guide To Lapel Styles first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

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Our weekly link roundup to help you fend of the Mondays

It’s getting harder and harder to avoid politics-ridden news, comedy relief, and even fashion discussions online and in life in general these days. While people’s sensitivities will only be heightening over the next two weeks – hopefully not too many more – let us know what “relief” you’d like to see in the comments, if the items below aren’t hitting you in the right spot.

On the note of disagreements, if you are having one with your boss, here are some tips on how to handle it like an adult.

If the New Yorker’s cartoons warm your heart, their cartoon-specific Instagram channel will bring you laughs amidst the photos of food, OOTDs, and travel pics (not that there is anything wrong with that. #guilty).

When in doubt, tweed. There are more ways to wear it than you think!

We just talked about what to wear on a first date to make the best first impression, but your drink order also says something about you.

Bill Muray had a busy week. First, he crashed the White House briefing room to talk about the Cubs, then he was caught as an emotional fan on Saturday night.

“I’m dressing as a sign of respect” is just one of the great pieces of advice to take from GQ’s interview with Gay Talese.

Sure! A “Skunk Lock” is definitely one way to deter bike theft.

If you follow NYFW Mens, you’ll be happy to know that Raf Simmons will be making his first appearance there this coming February.

Condé Nast Traveler’s Readers Choice 2016 is out and the lists are really, really good. Our stomachs are truly grateful for living across the street from one of the best restaurants in the U.S., Woodberry Kitchen.

Is this legal? NYC is deploying its feral cats to help rid them of rats.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Robin West
He Spoke Style

Image via @newyorkercartoons

The post Bill Murray, New Yorker Cartoons & Skunk Locks first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

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High culture, the fine arts and haute horology are meant to be classy

In partnership with IWC.

During the time I spent working deeply in the classical music, modern classical music and associated non-profit realms several years ago, an interesting movement emerged focused on making that type of music more accessible to contemporary audiences. There were a few reasons for this.

First and foremost were issues of preservation and sustainability. Patrons of the fine arts tend to be older and of a generation that was taught to appreciate, respect and revere art forms that take a lifetime of dedication to produce at a professional level.

So there was a very real “oh, shit” moment felt amongst high level leaders at established institutions that they’d better start cultivating the next generation of fine arts patrons – a generation of individuals who are more used to getting everything on demand and who very likely lack the attention spans required to consume this type of art.

Who listens to classical music anymore? Who listens to modern classical music? Or better yet, who even cares about either? These were the important questions being asked then and that are still being asked now.

But perhaps the biggest issue was one of cultural perception. Classical music is seen as elitist and pretentious. It is the domain of the learned man. It is a club. And if you don’t understand such forms of high art, well, then you’re not getting in because your kind isn’t allowed.

And I have to tell you, as someone who has spent my life in the fine arts, this is a very real thing. There are definitely people who feel like this and perpetuate the stereotype. But you can see the problem that attitude creates when it comes to the survival of something that exists in its own largely inaccessible niche.

There were a couple reactionary measures enacted. There was the educational trajectory – if we teach people to understand this stuff, they’ll learn to love it – and the accessibility trajectory. Of the two, the latter became the guiding principle for many an organization.

Programs because more “user-friendly”. Obscure and esoteric works were excluded, despite how important or phenomenal they actually were, in favor of old warhorses with melodies that were instantly recognizable. Many organizations put a lot of their eggs in the movie music basket. Anything that would connect with a broader public was (and generally still is) top priority.

| WEARING | Ermengildo Zegna suit, Edward Sexton shirt, IWC watch, Brooks Brothers tie, Cole Haan shoes | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Another simultaneous development on the accessibility front was a sartorial one. Typical concert dress for orchestras is a tuxedo with tails. And the thinking, as it went, was well, if we dress more like the people who come to our concerts – or, more to the point, the people who we want to come to our concerts – we’ll be more approachable and more relatable. And thus was ushered in the forgettable era of classical musicians dressing in jeans and t-shirts.

Personally, I think this confused audiences more than it comforted them. And a lot of people started to ask, “What should I wear to a classical music concert, anyhow?” For those who railed against the more palatable and agreeable music selection, this was just more evidence of the dumbing down of high culture in an effort to pander to, and hopefully win over, the uncouth masses.

The thing is, classical music, the symphony, the opera, they have a certain image. It’s an image of high culture, of refinement, of elegance, of something that is perhaps, for most people, more aspirational that it is attainable.

Is that such a bad thing? Aside from the fact that organizations do need to be making efforts to reach a younger demographic, I don’t think it’s a bad thing at all.

Because of its luxurious image, that’s what people expect when they attend an orchestra concert. An “event”. A certain kind of elevated experience. For the guy looking to impress his date with a dose of high culture, it’s what he paid for. Anything else might be something of a let down so why not embrace that image and not be ashamed of it?

Indeed, that was a long exposition as a way to say that classical music would do well to look at the watchmaking world for some guidance. Let’s consider the tourbillon.

Invented in 1795, the tourbillon was a complication meant to improve the accuracy of pocket watches. It was interesting, but fairly obscure until it made a comeback in the 1980s.

With the infusion of quartz watches into the marketplace, wristwatches became more accessible due to lower prices. And this put a lot of pressure on the mechanical watch industry. So instead of dumbing down their superior product, some highly intelligent people decided to double down on the luxury aspect of mechanical watches.

Yes, complications can be extremely useful and they are certainly a mark of quality craftsmanship and engineering, but as it came to be, complications are also a way of advertising status as they often command extremely high prices.

The tourbillon is a great example of this. While it was initially introduced as the most accurate timekeeping movement, mechanical watch movements have advanced to such a degree of precision that there is zero evidence that a tourbillon does a better job nowadays. However, it is abundantly appealing visually and is simply mesmerizing to watch. And on the front of the dial – it just looks plain rich.

I bring all of this up because in our introduction to the new IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Hand-Wound Edition “D. H. Craig USA” last week, I mentioned that one of my favorite features of this watch is its versatility. It works with tweed and chambray. It works with a business casual double-breasted blazer and gingham shirt sans tie.

But, honestly, on the wrist this watch really shines when paired with like-minded clothing. Its natural habitat, if you will. A perfectly tailored navy suit. A white contrast collar shirt complete with collar bar. A polished pair of black oxfords. If you’re going to wear luxury on your wrist, it would be a shame for your clothing not to complement it.

Much like when revered classical music organizations program “approachable” music it seems like in some sense they are sort of apologizing for the fact that they are truly experts and masters of their craft, sometimes I feel like when we’re dressing down, we’re also apologizing for something.

Maybe in a world where so many people don’t care about their appearance, we don’t want to upset them because we do care. Maybe it’s because we don’t want to offend people by being too fancy in an increasingly casual era.

What do I say to this? Don’t be ashamed. Wear what you love. Wear with dignity what you feel represents you. And when you’re wearing a watch on your wrist that has a tourbillon, dress appropriately.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Some Thoughts On Embracing Luxury first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

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An interview with British tailoring legend Edward Sexton

Today, we’re excited to launch a new video series here on the site and YouTube channel. If you remember our “In Good Company” videos from last year, Speaking Style will feel very much like the second season. The goal is to highlight influential people in menswear, giving you the chance to meet them and hear their personal stories, in their own words.

Our first episode features a the true legend of British tailoring, Edward Sexton. In 1969, along with Tommy Nutter, he shook up Savile Row by opening one of first new establishments the Row had seen in an exceedingly long time. This was also significant because it helped to temper the stuffiness that had been associated with Savile Row for so many decades, making it eminently more approachable and relevant to an entirely new generation.

The buzz that accompanied that launch also had the effect of attracting a great number of celebrities to the showroom. Edward’s clients included the likes of Mick and Bianca Jagger, Twiggy, Justin de Villeneuve, Ringo Starr, Paul McCartney and Joan Collins. While dabbling in celebrity fashion may conjure certain images of flamboyance or a lack of seriousness, Edward has always stayed true to his classic tailoring roots. And, if anything, it has only added to his wealth and breadth of knowledge.

The seriousness with which Edward approaches his craft was abundantly evident as he set about fitting me for my first true bespoke suit during his recent trip to New York City to meet with US clients. As we were getting into it, I was still shooting the shit with Dominic Sebag-Montefiore, the house’s young Creative Director, when Edward politely scolded us both saying, “You boys can talk later. We’re workin’ now.”

We did talk more later, as did Edward and I. The topics ranged from what defines the Edward Sexton aesthetic, how he got his start in the business, some favorite celebrity moments as well as the house’s new Offshore Bespoke offering.

It was a true pleasure speaking to someone of Edward’s stature and I sincerely hope you enjoy the interview. Thanks for watching and don’t forget to subscribe to our YouTube channel. And tell us who you’d like to see featured on Speaking Style in the comments section.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Shot on location at L&S Custom Tailors in New York City. Photography by Rob McIver Photo. Video shot by Rob McIver and edited by Jared Morgan.

The post Speaking Style With Edward Sexton first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Besides the fact that it’s not hot and humid every day

Now that fall is truly here – it’s actually felt a bit more like winter, recently – there are many style-centric reasons to be happy. Here are three of our favorites packed into one casual weekend look.

| WEARING | Jacket c/o Lavenham, Drake’s scarf, J.Crew jeans, Oliver Peoples glasses, Rolex watch, Boots c/o Tawny Goods | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Quilted jackets. To be honest, outerwear is one of my favorite things about fall. There is such a range available, that your coat often becomes the centerpiece of any outfit. A quilted jacket, like this classic from our friends at Lavenham, adds texture and depth to your look and a healthy dose of warmth to your body.

Scarves. While early fall is the perfect time for lightweight scarves, once we get to the point where the chill starts to really get down into your bones, it’s time to break out the big guns. Break out of the monotony of a solid color scarf with one that has a rich pattern. Many you have asked about this scarf on Instagram – it’s from Drake’s and I picked it up recently at their pop-up shop in Soho, which I highly recommend checking out.

Boots. Enough said. You know we’re a huge fan of getting booted during the fall and winter months. One tip: rolled jeans look great with boots. If your jeans have been hemmed – i.e. not long enough to do a double roll and cuff – give them a simple, single roll instead.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Three Reasons We’re Happy It’s Finally Fall first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Because Vine is dead

Staying warm and stylish in the colder months isn’t as hard as you think. Right now, all you need is a pop of color via a lightweight scarf, like Brian.

We talk about Paul Newman’s style a lot here. Here’s an article to help you dress like the always cool icon.

Kudos to this dog owner for dressing like his dog’s favorite chew toy and bringing him the look of pure love on his face.

And on the totally other side of owners, this is what some are putting on their dogs to avoid having to clean up dog hair. Woof.

David Yi has launched a new site about men and men’s grooming, A Very Good Light, to answer all your questions about parting your hair, Korean face masks (use them), and, getting rid of hickeys??

…which is a nice segue to plug our own Grooming section…

David Coggins is making a lot of headlines this month, between his new book that Brian is reading while on the road and his exclusive collection with Drake’s, which already appears to be mostly sold out, unfortunately.

Why have we been travelling around the world without this neck pillow all of our lives??

Twitter dumped Vine, and while we haven’t used this app in a while, we were always big fans of many of the talented creators mixing video clips with perfect sound bites. So, to pay tribute the platform, a few of our favorites below (make sure to turn on the sound):

– Brotherly love.
– The Pink Panther of raccoons.
– Yeah!!
– The most amazing ostrich EVER.
– Mondays got us like.
– Kids aren’t very smart.
– Because cats dancing are always funny.
– To remember all those Drake memes.
– The notorious horse.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Robin West
He Spoke Style

Featured image via Industry of One.

The post There Will Be No More Notorious Horses first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A video review of the new IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Edition “D.H. Craig USA”

In partnership with IWC.

Another week, another new video series. Just business as usual here at HSS! Actually, we’ve put a lot of thought into how we can continue to expand not only our video offerings but also the type of material we’re covering. And judging from the reaction to the watch content we’ve already published, this is something you guys are enjoying as much as we are.

You may have noticed that we’ve been giving a lot of love to the new IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Edition “D.H. Craig USA”. You can read our review and historical overview of the watch (plus see more photos) and get some tourbillon watch styling tips and our thoughts on embracing luxury.

And while a picture may be worth a thousand words, when it comes to capturing the beauty of a tourbillon in action, nothing will do it justice more than an actual video. And what a timepiece to kick off our new series, HSS On Time!

Thanks for watching. And don’t forget to subscribe to our YouTube channel for first access to new videos!

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post HSS On Time With The IWC Portugieser “D.H. Craig USA” first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

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Everything you need to know about derby shoes

I’ll just go ahead and start this exploration of Derby shoes with a confession: I had no idea the actual complexities of shoe classifications until I researched this article. I thought I had it nailed down, but turns out I was mistaken, so don’t feel bad if you’re not completely sure either!

Now, let me backtrack for a moment while we define just what a Derby shoe is. Off the bat, it’s simple enough – where an Oxford shoe is defined by its closed lacing method of construction, a Derby is defined by open lacing. More explicitly, this means that the quarters, or the panels of leather containing the lacing eyelets, are sewn on top of the vamp, rather than under it.

So where did I go wrong? Namely in assuming that ‘Bluchers’ and ‘Derby shoes’ were the same thing. However, while many Americans use the terms interchangeably, there’s actually a pretty key difference. Bluchers, it turns out, are specifically whole-cut shoes with only eyelet tabs sewn onto the vamp, rather than complete separate quarters of leather. What’s more, I found out that Derbies are also called ‘Gibsons’, which I had just straight up never heard before. You learn something new every day, as they say!

Returning to the Derby itself, it’s worth noting that while Oxfords are considered inherently dressier due to their cleaner lines, Derbies got their start as a casual shoe. Back in the mid 1800s, it was the shoe style of choice for leisure activities like hunting and sportsmanship. In fact, it wasn’t until the mid-1900s that the Derby shoe became accepted as a ‘town shoe.’

That said, to this day, I’d still consider the style more casual. While it may work in an office setting, it will never really be black-tie appropriate. Instead, the Derby finds its versatility on the off-duty end of the spectrum, filling in smoothly in occasions where an Oxford is just too dressy.

As a result of this designation as a casual shoe, Derbies tend to be a bit chunkier than Oxfords. While this may mean that Derbies tend to host a variety of unsightly shoe trends, there are plenty of stylish options to be found. Bucks, for example, are almost always Derbies and have been a mainstay of menswear for ages.

On a more contemporary note, as tailoring is moving in a roomier direction, shoe profiles have also grown heavier and more robust by necessity of balance, pushing the Derby shoe to the forefront in many men’s fashion circles. And of course, as is often the case, if you really want a sleek Derby, it won’t be that hard to find, as designers have adapted the style to fit pretty much any occasion.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo. Special thanks to Samuel Parker Clothier.

The post Style Defined: Derby Shoes first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

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The Rake’s online editor has a very stylish Instagram account, obviously

There’s a lot to admire and envy about Aleksandar Cvetkovic, my editor at The Rake online. He is literally in the thick of sartorial London culture. Between working at The Rake, and hobnobbing around with the likes of the fine people at Drakes, Edward Sexton, Gieves & Hawkes and many others, it’s enough to make me want to pack my bags and move across the pond tomorrow.

Here are a few things you can learn from Aleks, via his stylish Instagram account.

Rule No. 1:

A photo posted by Aleksandar Cvetkovic (@aleks_cvetkovic) on Nov 2, 2016 at 7:00am PDT

When forest green doesn’t pan out as a “trend”, you look even cooler when you have a suit made in that color.

Rule No. 2:

A photo posted by Aleksandar Cvetkovic (@aleks_cvetkovic) on Sep 9, 2016 at 6:12am PDT

The best way to dress down a double-breasted blazer is with a denim shirt.

Rule No. 3:

A photo posted by Aleksandar Cvetkovic (@aleks_cvetkovic) on Jul 7, 2016 at 12:56pm PDT

Keep stylish company.

Rule No. 4:

A photo posted by Aleksandar Cvetkovic (@aleks_cvetkovic) on Apr 2, 2016 at 9:11am PDT

Tuck in a lightweight sweater to a pair of tailored cotton trousers for a sartorial springtime look.

Rule No. 5:

A photo posted by Aleksandar Cvetkovic (@aleks_cvetkovic) on Mar 13, 2016 at 7:46am PDT

Redefine high/low with a denim pin collar shirt.

Rule No. 6:

A photo posted by Aleksandar Cvetkovic (@aleks_cvetkovic) on Feb 22, 2016 at 12:03am PST

A permanent wardrobe takes time to develop – don’t cut corners.

Rule No. 7:

A photo posted by Aleksandar Cvetkovic (@aleks_cvetkovic) on Nov 6, 2015 at 10:59am PST

Have a strong boot game.

Rule No. 8:

A photo posted by Aleksandar Cvetkovic (@aleks_cvetkovic) on Jan 11, 2016 at 3:27pm PST

Nothing beats a blue suit. (Paired with a brown tie.)

Rule No. 9:

A photo posted by Aleksandar Cvetkovic (@aleks_cvetkovic) on May 3, 2015 at 9:05am PDT

Stop and have a pint every once in a while.

Rule No. 10:

A photo posted by Aleksandar Cvetkovic (@aleks_cvetkovic) on Oct 29, 2014 at 3:35pm PDT

Always be on the lookout for amazing vintage pieces.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Featured image via Jamie Ferguson.

The post Rules of Style According To Aleksandar Cvetkovic first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice