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Why Do People Make Bad Style Choices?

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from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

And some thoughts on why uniform dressing might be the personal style holy grail

We’re in this interesting place right now in terms of menswear. Thankfully, the idea of dressing well and caring about one’s appearance has, by and large, shed the stigma it once had and more men are actually trying to look better on a day to day basis.

The flip side of that is since more guys have gotten interested, nobody wants to wear the same thing as the other guy and that has led to some poor style decisions. I’m talking about things like statement socks, wooden bow ties, the I-really-though-it-was-an-Onion-story hex tie, contrast-threaded button holes and my perennial whipping boy, rubber chicken cuff links.

uniform dressing personal style

The person who decides to wear any of said items (or other things that could easily be lumped into the same category) does so because he is trying to be different. To stand out. To show everyone that he is “into style”. And that last one, to be honest, while most likely being done earnestly, is perhaps the biggest (and most common) men’s style mistake of them all.

But you know what? I get it. I understand why guys do this. I feel like buried within every guy is a little bit of a hipster ethos – a desire to seek out and acquire something unique that nobody else has. Except, the thing is, when it comes to style, in a general way, it really doesn’t work like that.

uniform dressing personal style

| WEARING | Blazer c/o Tommy Hilfiger, Brunello Cucinelli shirt, Banana Republic pants, Breuer tie and pocket square, Rolex watch, Tod’s shoes | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

A navy suit is a navy suit. It has always looked great and will always look great on any man. There is nothing you can or should do to improve it. A navy suit needs no flair.

So, the heart of the matter is a desire to showcase individuality. And a navy suit (or grey suit) is for all intents and purposes, still seen as something of a uniform. How does one stand out when everyone else is wearing the same thing?

That’s a fine question and I would say two things, actually. First, in our current times, adopting a classic sense of dress and style will make you stand out because that’s not the norm. Second, what’s wrong with not standing out because of your clothing?

uniform dressing personal style

I’m old school in that I don’t think that your outfit should outwardly draw attention to itself. Individuality can be showcased through details – the watch you wear, the lining you’ve chosen for your jacket, the width of your lapel and so on. Oh, and let’s not forget about personality and the ability to have a conversation! Let’s talk about something important and not the gimmicky accessory you’ve worn!

uniform dressing personal style

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Why Do People Make Bad Style Choices? first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice


3 Simple Rules for Pattern Mixing

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pattern mixing rules

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

How to mix it up with confidence and style

Patterns are one of the pleasures of menswear. But mixing patterns can be a bit tricky and treacherous. So to help you do it with confidence and style, here are three simple rules for pattern mixing.

pattern mixing rules

pattern mixing rules

| WEARING | Suitsupply blazer, Al Bazar shirt, Banana Republic pants, Drake’s tie, Rolex watch, Shoes c/o Paul Evans | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

1. Choose two different types of patterns. Patterns basically come in three flavors – stripes, dots and checks. Pick two from different families, or three if you’re feeling more adventurous. Is it possible to work within one type of pattern and still make it interesting? Yes, and we’ve previously given some advice on how to pull this off with style.

2. Vary the size. The name of the game when it comes to pattern mixing is to make things complementary. And size is an important factor. Make sure the scale of the patterns is different. It can be exaggerated or done with more of an eye towards subtlety.

pattern mixing rules

3. One bolder, one more subtle. Make sure one of your patterns takes center stage. Two bold patterns will compete with one another and create an undesirable clash. Plaid is usually seen as a bolder pattern, but as you can see here, it’s more subtle on the jacket, while the strength of the slightly larger houndstooth of the tie really comes to the fore.

pattern mixing rules

Finally, remember that these rules are guidelines. Just because something meets all the specific criteria doesn’t necessarily mean it works in practice. Use these rules as a starting point, but always remember to go by feel and instinct as well.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post 3 Simple Rules for Pattern Mixing first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Style Defined: Driving Shoes

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driving shoes history

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A brief history of the driving shoe

The driving shoe is perhaps the perfect example of a piece of attire created purely out of necessity. That need? Comfort. With the rise of automobile ‘driving culture,’ men were on the hunt for a shoe comfortable enough for a long drive in the country, but stylish enough to live up to the rest of a casual outfit.

Traditional dress shoes, with their hard soles and often stiffer, sleeker uppers, were simply too stiff for the job, not to mention that a day of mashing pedals could put some unwanted wear and tear on your finest footwear.

Back in 1963, the Car Shoe company was founded to solve that very problem. Their solution was to take a classic moccasin-style shoe – a simple slip-on shoe made of soft leather – and add rubber pads to the soles. These pads come in two forms, either rubber-dotted with small round ‘nubs’ covering the soles, or separated pads with strategically placed larger rubber panels.

driving shoes history

The pliable leather and open construction allowed flexibility for comfort, while the rubber components of the soles added durability and longevity. The final distinctive characteristic is the extension of the sole and the rubber pads up the heel of the sole to provide traction and stability while in a driving position.

driving shoes history

At the time of their founding, Car Shoe’s products were very high-end and relatively unobtainable with a middle-class wage. Tod’s, a shoe company founded in the 1920s, capitalized on the demand for an affordable driving moccasin and began producing the shoe for the masses as they expanded from a small, boutique brand into a department store staple. These days, Car Shoe still makes their classic style, but prices have relatively evened out with Tod’s, who’s Gommino shoes have become the standard driving shoe in many men’s minds.

A few style tips for wearing driving shoes

Now, as far as styling goes, there are some things to be cautious of when working a driving shoe into your attire. First and foremost, it is a purely casual shoe, for a few reasons. One is that the shoe is usually made from softer leather, like suede or deerskin for greater comfort, which doesn’t lend the shine and structure of a more formal dress shoe.

Another is the shape, which is a bit more square and decidedly less sleek than a dress shoe, again to allow for more comfortable, roomy wear. Last, the shoe is definitively a loafer, and even dressy loafers have a limit as far as formality goes, and should rarely be worn with anything more than the most casual of suits.

driving shoes history

For these reasons, we highly recommend keeping your driving shoes in casual territory – rock them with jeans, or casual slacks, but don’t try to take them much farther than that. If you’re headed to a formal event that calls for dressier attire, simply bring a change of shoes to swap out when you arrive at your destination.

On a final styling note, we’ll also caution that there can be some disagreement as to how appropriate it is to wear a driving shoe when you aren’t driving. Some folks approach it as a purely functional piece that should be worn only in the car, while others have latched on to the comfort/class combo and wear them more frequently in the day-to-day as a substitute for a standard loafer.

We won’t tell you that one is right or wrong, but it’s important to consider how you feel about the prospect before diving in head first.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post Style Defined: Driving Shoes first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

What’s Next For Men’s Style?

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windowpane plaid three piece suit

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

And why there has never been a better time to dress like a gentleman

I started this conversation on Instagram a couple days ago and thought it would be a suitable topic for the site as well. Fashion is and always has been influenced by the culture that surrounds it.

Sometimes it is reactionary, sometimes it seems very much a product of the times. Sometimes it comes in the form of a trend, which is generally fleeting. And other times it slowly morphs over time and you don’t even see it change until one day you look up and think, “wow, where did that come from?”

windowpane plaid three piece suit

windowpane plaid three piece suit

| WEARING | Suit c/o Reiss, Ermengildo Zegna shirt, J.Crew tie, Cartier watch, Suitsupply shoes | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

When fashion is reactionary, it tends to be pretty easy to spot and to put into context. Think about the counterculture movement in the 1960s and the associated fashion. Tie dye t-shirts, long hair, and so on. This was done in a spirit of rebellion by a generation that didn’t want to be cookie cutter like their parents, that questioned authority in a way that the country had never seen.

In terms of fashion being a product of the times, think about how 1980s style captures the very beginning of the coming technology explosion. Sharp lines. Extremely defined sihouettes. It just looked like the 1980s.

As we stand on the doorstep of a potentially radically different era and climate, both here in the states and around the world, I’m curious to see what fashion’s reaction will be. Regardless of what happens in a larger cultural context, our stance here at HSS is that there has never been a better time to dress (and act) like a gentleman.

windowpane plaid three piece suit

Indeed, looking ahead to the New Year when we make our blanket pronouncements of what principles will guide our content (and what trends we hope will die), I, Brian Sacawa, founder and executive editor of this website, would personally like to see the continued adoption of the type of style we’ve been promoting from the beginning. And that is very much what I embrace in my personal style – a classic sense of dress with a modern sensibility. And let’s apply that to manners and etiquette as well.

We’ll have more on this topic in our first few posts in the New Year. It’s a topic we’re eager to exlore.

windowpane plaid three piece suit

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post What’s Next For Men’s Style? first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Rules of Style According to Nicola Ricci

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nicola ricci sciamat instagram style

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

15 things you can learn from Nicola Ricci of Sciamat

In 2002, Nicola Ricci along with his brother Valentino, founded Sciamat, which has become an exceptionally successful bespoke tailoring house. Though we’ve not had the pleasure of visiting the showroom in person, we’ve definitely taken note (and taken notes) on Nicola’s amazing style via his Instagram account.

Here are 15 things you can learn from his style.

Rule No. 1:

A photo posted by Nicola Ricci (@nicolasricci) on

A green tie is an easy way to spice up a classic navy/grey jacket and pants combination.

Rule No. 2:

A photo posted by Nicola Ricci (@nicolasricci) on

Linings are the perfect place to go all-out – though it’s just as well if nobody ever sees it.

Rule No. 3:

A photo posted by Nicola Ricci (@nicolasricci) on

A denim shirt easily dresses down the formality of a suit and makes it infinitely more versatile.

Rule No. 4:

A photo posted by Nicola Ricci (@nicolasricci) on

There are many shades of blue suit – royal blue is a contemporary must-have.

Rule No. 5:

A photo posted by Nicola Ricci (@nicolasricci) on

A double-breasted jacket without a tie is most definitely okay.

Rule No. 6:

A photo posted by Nicola Ricci (@nicolasricci) on

Know how to do weekend casual properly.

Rule No. 7:

A photo posted by Nicola Ricci (@nicolasricci) on

Know how to do the classic pocket square folds, then get creative.

Rule No. 8:

A photo posted by Nicola Ricci (@nicolasricci) on

Understand and embrace the notion that in matters of style, imperfection is often perfection.

Rule No. 9:

A photo posted by Nicola Ricci (@nicolasricci) on

Know the importance of dressing seasonally and be willing to step out of your comfort zone once in a while.

Rule No. 10:

A photo posted by Nicola Ricci (@nicolasricci) on

Put your own spin on the classics.

Rule No. 11:

A photo posted by Nicola Ricci (@nicolasricci) on

Pleats and thank you.

Rule No. 12:

A photo posted by Nicola Ricci (@nicolasricci) on

Stop and enjoy the coffee.

Rule No. 13:

A photo posted by Nicola Ricci (@nicolasricci) on

A turtleneck under a blazer is always in style.

Rule No. 14:

A photo posted by Nicola Ricci (@nicolasricci) on

Every man needs to own a quality navy silk knit tie.

Rule No. 15:

A photo posted by Nicola Ricci (@nicolasricci) on

That denim shirt? It works with a double-breasted jacket as well.

Like our “Rules of Style” posts? If so, we think you won’t want to miss the rules according to Giampaolo Alliata, Aleks Cvetkovic or Justus Hansen.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Rules of Style According to Nicola Ricci first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Subtlety Is The Name of the Game

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from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Give an old outfit a refresh with a new tie

To be honest, there isn’t a whole lot I have to say about this particular look. I realize that’s a pretty unsatisfying lede for those who happen to be regular HSS readers and have grown accustomed to focused content tailored to specific style questions and situations, but every once in a while that’s how it goes!

And while I might not have had a specific purpose, editorially speaking, when I put this outfit together, it still has a few facets that I might consider to be “teachable moments”.

drake's medallion tie

drake's medallion tie

| WEARING | Al Bazar blazer and shirt, Banana Republic pants, Drake’s tie, Rolex watch, Tateossian and Cantini MC Firenze bracelets, Shoes c/o Tommy Hilfiger | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

First, there’s the question of wearing brown and grey together. Some people think that it’s a no-go color combo. Nothing could be more erroneous. Both are subdued colors that pair naturally together. Brown blazer with grey pants? Totally fine. Brown shoes with grey pants? Absolutely.

Next, let’s talk about ties. If, like me, you gravitate towards classic menswear colors, your tie is one of the items you can change up to make what’s old look new again. However, beware of getting too quirky or outside the box when it comes to your tie.

Whenever I go see my friend Ken at Samuel Parker Clothier, he’s always got a fresh selection of ties from Drake’s, which I find hard to resist. Ken, who has a slightly more flambouyant sense of dress that me, always tries to steer me to something in his wheelhouse, though I always tend to stick with what “feels right” to me. And that is undoubtedly something more subtle.

The Drake’s tie I’m wearing in this post, was one of those purchases. Do I have something similar? Maybe? But it’s not the same. The minor details make a huge difference. Always.

drake's medallion tie

Back to the point of making what’s old new again, compare, if you will, the outfit in this post with one that’s fairly similar that I wore last year in Munich.

drake's medallion tie

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post Subtlety Is The Name of the Game first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Scarf Ties, Sweater Inspo & IWC on Mr. Porter

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tan-cashmere-turtleneck-with-blue-plaid-overcoat-mens-outfit-ideas-winter-classic-combination

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A pre-holiday roundup of menswear news you can use

I’ve been on digital hibernation for the last week, hence why there was no link round-up. Last week I hit my limit on the amount of negativity online and until this, I’ve actually avoided opening any app on my phone other than Gmail & Instagram (that’s my safe place). Because of this though, it also seems like we all need some reading that can possibly be an escape. Even if only for a few minutes.

Let’s kick things off.

The bad news? This weekend reminded us that winter is much closer than we’d like to admit. The good news? Your jacket can help elevate your look, and our winter Style Guide is here to help. Scroll away!

You’ll also need to know how to tie your scarf properly.

Possibly the most important news of the week, Apple is bringing it’s butt peach emoji back to how it was. And how it should be.

Brian is featured in the most recent issue of The Rake! (Be sure to pick up a copy.) Thanks, Chris, for the great capture.

Speaking of, their newest collaboration is a beautiful take on the Huntsman hacking jacket.

“When Tom Ford tells you to button your jacket, you button your jacket.”

You know we’re big fans of IWC. And now, the Swiss watchmaker’s collection is available for the first time online at Mr. Porter.

J.Crew is getting into the holiday spirit with three quick ways to add some festivity to your wardrobe. Once you wrap your head around it being “the holidays”, their gift guide can also be of great use.

The style move to definitely try this winter? A turtleneck under your blazer. I’m pretty sure we’ve told you about this once or twice before…

Brian and I are heading to Barcelona tonight for the week. I can assure you we’ll be sharing some great snaps along the way. Follow Brian here and yours truly here.

The full HSS team wishes you a Happy Thanksgiving! Eat some pie on our behalf, please.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Robin West
He Spoke Style

The post Scarf Ties, Sweater Inspo & IWC on Mr. Porter first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A Menswear Meet Up With Fabio Attanasio

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fabio attanasio bespoke dudes

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Catching up with Fabio Attanasio, founder of The Bespoke Dudes, in NYC

One of my favorite things about the digital space, is that we are able to connect with people all over the world who share similar interests and passions. And I recently had a chance to meet, in-person, someone whose style I’ve admired for quite some time.

I’m speaking, of course, about Fabio Attanasio. Fabio lives in Milan where he writes the website, The Bespoke Dudes, and is the founder of its eponymous eyewear offshoot, The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear.

fabio attanasio bespoke dudes

fabio attanasio bespoke dudes

| FABIO WEARS | Fay jacket, Eduardo de Simone suit, TBD sunglasses, Omega watch, Edward Green loafers

Following Fabio’s Instagram over the years, I immediately noticed that we were birds of a feather. A classic sense of style with a modern sensibility. A focus on quality in terms of what we invest in personally, the brands we choose to collaborate with as well as the message and type of content we produce. Fabio has a sense of integrity that is admirable, especially when it comes to operating in this digital world.

It could be incredibly easy to get caught up in the hype surrounding what we do and be overcome with a desire to put oneself first rather than the readers who look to you for advice. This was just one of the many things we discussed during the few hours we were able to spend together before Fabio had to hop on a plane back to Milan to prepare for his next TBD Eyewear trunk show in London.

fabio-attanasio-tie-teal-blue-suit-details-orange-pocket-square

fabio attanasio bespoke dudes

| BRIAN WEARS | Apolis jacket, Al Bazar shirt, Banana Republic pants, Drake’s tie, Rolex watch, Filson briefcase, Paul Evans shoes | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

More than anything, it was great to know that the person that Fabio appears to be in his photos is the person he turly is in real life. That’s not always the case and, let me tell you, it is really refreshing when you find those people.

We were hoping to shoot an episode of Speaking Style with Fabio, but didn’t want it to feel rushed. Instead we used the time to check out the recently reopened Rose Reading Room in the New York Public Library, talk about the state of menswear online, trade tips on favorite cigars and just generally get acquainted.

fabio attanasio bespoke dudes

We will definitely be doing a video with Fabio in the future, but in the meantime, if you’re fans of what’s going on here at HSS, I highly recommend you become a reader of Fabio’s as well.

fabio attanasio bespoke dudes

fabio attanasio bespoke dudes

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post A Menswear Meet Up With Fabio Attanasio first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice


The Anatomy of a Dress Shoe

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shoe construction terminology

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Your complete guide to dress shoe construction terms and footwear terminology

Talking about dress shoes – whether it’s what defines a certain style, what makes one shoe superior to another, or just an understanding of what’s on your feet – requires at least a fundamental knowledge of the construction of classic footwear.

So let’s break one down from the ground up – literally. We’ll walk you through each component – what it is and what it does – layer by layer, starting with the sole.

Outsole. Ok, more specific than the sole, which is actually made of a few layers itself, we’ll start with the outsole. When you turn your shoe over, the outsole is what you see. It’s the part that hits the ground running – literally. Classically made out of leather, you can also find options in rubber, crepe, and other synthetics. The shape of the outsole (or the entire sole) is called the last, which determines the profile of the entire shoe.

Heel Stack (or block). Part of the outsole, the heel stack is pretty self explanatory. In classic leather soled shoes, the heel is formed from extra layers of leather that lift the heel of the foot. With synthetic soles, this can be made from a block of rubber or other synthetic.

Footbed Filler. The layer in between the outsole and the insole is the footbed filler. It’s never seen, but is crucial to the feel of a shoe. Quality shoes have a cork filler that forms to the wearer’s foot over time creating a unique and personalized fit.

Shank. Most dress shoes also include a metal shank that lies between the outsole and insole directly forward of the heel. The shank gives structure and support to the arch of the foot.

dress shoe construction terms  footwear terminology

Insole. The insole is the layer you see inside the shoe. It is almost always made of leather, although some more casual styles will use a textile layer. The insole covers all those pieces that lie directly above the outsole.

Welt. The welt is a strip of material and subsequent stitching that connects the outsole to the insole and seals in all of the other sole components. The welt can be constructed in a variety of ways, with the Goodyear Welt being arguably the most popular due to its durability and weatherproofing, but other stitches like the Blake welt offer a more streamlined appearance. Cheaper, mass-produced shoes are glued rather than stitched, which provides an arguably significantly lower level of quality.

Upper. The upper is another self-explanatory term, and refers to all of the combined components above the sole – basically, all of the following comprise the upper part of the shoe.

Quarters. The portion of the upper that starts at the laces and runs under the ankle bone and around the back of the heel. Quarters secured under the vamp are referred to as closed lacing, while quarters stitched over the vamp are open lacing, a distinction that differentiates oxfords and derbies.

dress shoe construction terms footwear terminology

Vamp. The portion of the upper that covers the instep, usually secured under the quarters and over the tongue. Additionally, the very top portion of the vamp that runs right below the lacing and quarters is referred to as the throat.

Toe Cap. Another optional component, not found on styles like whole-cut shoes, the toe cap is an additional layer of leather stitched over the toe that provides additional strength and durability as well as a decorative appeal. Sometimes this layer is found beneath the upper and out of sight, in which case it is referred to as a ‘puff.’

dress shoe construction terms footwear terminology

Backstay. A short strip of leather that runs up from the sole at the heel and connects the quarters of each side.

Saddle. A leather strip that runs over the instep, reaching down the sole on either side of the foot. Occasionally this piece is made from a contrasting color of leather or fabric.

Eyelets. The holes punched in the leather along the instep to allow the insertion of the laces.

Lining. The lining is a layer of leather stitching into the inside of a shoe, and is the piece that comes in direct contact with the wearer’s foot (or sock). Usually made of a softer, more pliable leather for comfort.

Foxing. Foxing is an optional component of trimming that runs around the ankle opening, usually found on brogues and wingtips.

That’s a heck of a lot of pieces, right? And we didn’t even hit every miniscule component. Sure, we got the big guys, but there’s actually quite a few more, from the rand (a part of the heel) to the heel counter (helps give shape to the heel), the list would just go on and on. Kind of makes a guy appreciate why a quality piece of footwear can cost well over $200, doesn’t it?

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

Featured image via Allen Edmonds. All other photos by Rob McIver Photo.

The post The Anatomy of a Dress Shoe first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Oxford Vs. Derby: What’s The Difference?

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oxford shoes closure

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A simple explanation of the difference between an oxford shoe and a derby shoe

An Oxford shoe and a Derby shoe are fairly similar, though there is one very important distinction between the two. Here’s a quick explanation of the difference.

What is an Oxford shoe?

An Oxford shoe is created with what’s called closed lacing. All that this means is that the flaps of leather that contain the lacing eyelets are sewn under the vamp rather than on top of it.

SAY WHAT? Read our guide to dress shoe construction terms.

oxford vs derby

What is a Derby shoe?

A Derby shoe is defined by open lacing. More explicitly, this means that the quarters, or the panels of leather containing the lacing eyelets, are sewn on top of the vamp, rather than under it.

oxford vs derby

What does this mean in terms of styling? To keep it simple, Oxford shoes are a more formal, dressier option, while Derbies are more casual.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post Oxford Vs. Derby: What’s The Difference? first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

The “Dressed Down” Brown Suit

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dress down brown suit casual

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

What to wear with a brown suit when you’re feeling a little less formal

“Dressing down” a suit is a little bit of a misnomer. If you’re choosing to wear a suit, you’re always going to be somewhat dressed up. There are ways to temper the formality of a suit, however. Here are a few tips for doing that with one of my favorite brown suits.

dress down brown suit casual

dress down brown suit casual

| WEARING | Vintage Yves Saint Laurent suit, Brunello Cucinelli shirt, Drakes tie, Cartier watch, Shoes c/o Tommy Hilfiger | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

The color brown iteslf lends itself to a less formal appearance. Earthy tones feel warmer and less corporate, in general, though it is certainly possible to make it business appropriate.

As demonstrated frequently by our most recent “Rules of Style” subject, a denim shirt is the perfect casual accompaniment to a suit. A button-down collar helps to reinforce that.

If your suit is a solid color, choose a tie with a interesting pattern. We love houndstooth for the fall and winter months. Keep in mind that the smaller the pattern, the more conservative it will appear from afar.

dress down brown suit casual

dress down brown suit casual

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post The “Dressed Down” Brown Suit first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Cyber Monday Deals 2016: The Ones Actually Worth Your Time

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from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

The best of the best Cyber Monday sales for men

We all love a good deal. And, honestly, there are few better times during the year to get one than on Cyber Monday, not to mention the residual Black Friday deals.

However, as a buyer, you’ve always got to beware. Just because something is a great deal, doesn’t necessarily mean you should buy it. That’s never a good reason. So before we get to the big list of sales, let’s go over some criteria for deciding which Cyber Monday deals to jump at.

Do you need it? Always a great question to ask yourself, even when it’s not Cyber Monday. Be honest with yourself and exercise some restraint.

Is your size available? Oh, man, I know how much this can really hurt. You’ve found exactly what you’re looking for and the retailer doesn’t have your size. Maybe it’s a sweater one size too big. Or a shoe one size too small. Do not, under any circumstances, buy an item that fits into this category. You’ll never wear it and you’ll never see that cash again.

Buy quality items. Just because ASOS and H&M have big deals, doesn’t mean they’re selling great clothing. Apply the same standards to your purchases on Cyber Monday as you would any other day of the year.

Now that we’ve laid some ground rules, here’s our big, curated list of Cyber Monday deals:

Amazon: 30% off select clothing, shoes, jewelry, watches and more. Ends 12/3.

Barney’s: Save 40% off select modern menswear with classic style.

Bonobos: Save 30% sitewide with code CYBER2016. Ends 11/28.

Brooks Brothers: Save an additional 10% online and receive free shipping on all orders. Ends 11/28.

Century 21 Stores: Take an additional 25% off one item and receive free shipping. Ends 11/28.

Cole Haan: Take 40% off sitewide. Ends 11/28.

East Dane: Save 15% off orders of $200+, 20% off orders of $500+ and 25% off orders of $800+. Use code GOBIG16 on all full price and sale items. Ends 11/28.

J.Crew: Save 40% off you purchase with code MONDAY. Ends 11/28.

Luisaviaroma: Receive an extra 20% off at checkout. Ends 11/28.

Macy’s: Take an extra 20% off with code CYBER. Receive free shipping on all orders over $25. Ends 11/28.

Mr. Porter: 30% off selected items. Ends 11/28.

Nordstrom: Take an extra 20% off selected sale items. Ends 11/28.

Reiss: Up to 40% off.

Saks Fifth Avenue: Save up to 40% off. Ends 11/28.

Tommy Hilfiger: Save 50% off sitewide with code CYBERGIFT50. Ends 11/29.

Uniqlo: Big markdowns and free shipping on all orders with no minimum.

Thanks for reading and good luck finding a great deal!

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post Cyber Monday Deals 2016: The Ones Actually Worth Your Time first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

The “All-Business” Royal Blue Suit

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from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A conservative approach to styling a stand-out suit color

Everyone knows that a navy suit is the cornerstone of a well-curated wardrobe. Once you’ve got that base covered, however, it’s time to branch out. A royal blue suit is an excellent choice for those looking for something different that also pushes the envelope slightly.

However, in a conservative office setting, royal blue might stick out somewhat. Here are some tips for keeping a stand-out suit in check.

royal blue suit combinations

royal blue suit combinations

| WEARING | QG Custom suit, Edward Sexton shirt, Brooks Brothers tie, Drake’s pocket square, Maxwell Scott briefcase, Rolex watch, Shoes c/o Tommy Hilfiger | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Remember that darker colors are more formal and lighter colors more casual. So if the goal is a more conservative approach to styling, stick with dark shades.

A striped navy tie keeps it classic and has the effect of anchoring the entire ensemble. It’s a classic, but powerful, statement that draws attention away from the royal blue color of the suit.

A plain white shirt can sometimes get overlooked, but when you’re dressing conservatively, it’s a go-to. Add a subtle sartorial touch with a tab collar.

royal blue suit combinations

Apply the darker color/more formal concept to your footwear as well. Dark brown shoes always ground a classic look. Choose accessories, like a briefcase and pocket square, that are complementary to pull everything together.

royal blue suit combinations

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post The “All-Business” Royal Blue Suit first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Welcome To Look & Feel Your Best Month on HSS!

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from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Why wait for New Year’s Resolutions?

I suppose you could argue that every month is Look & Feel Your Best Month here on HSS. Just about everything we publish is designed to help you look your best and, in turn, help you feel your best.

However, we thought that with the holidays coming up, there is really no better time than the month of December to really focus in on both of those things.

So all this month, look for content designed to help you achieve your best style – holiday or otherwise – your best look as well as thoughts and ideas on how to maximize other aspects of your life that contribute to overall happiness and satisfaction.

Holiday party outfits? We’ll have some new ones. How to look good in a photo? We’re on it. Though, as always, we’d love your input.

So, tell us:

What would you like to see on us cover this month on HSS to help you look and feel your best?

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post Welcome To Look & Feel Your Best Month on HSS! first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Personal Grooming Habits You Shouldn’t Overlook

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from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A few simple tips for upping your personal grooming game

As we all know from being astute students of style, it’s the little details that make the biggest difference. The way a pocket square can be folded just so. Pick stitching on a jacket’s lapels. Choosing to leave your shirt cuffs unbuttoned under a blazer. It’s the case with style and it’s also the case with personal grooming.

Taking a bit of extra time in the bathroom in front of a mirror – not even on a daily basis – to monitor and fix some things that are really easy to fix, will go a long way towards enhancing your overall appearance. But more than that, taking care of yourself in such a way shows respect for other people, not just yourself. It’s just like dressing well.

So, here are four personal grooming habits to pay attention to.

Tend to your eyebrows.

Everyone knows about the unibrow and, yes, that falls under the umbrella of what we mean when we say “tend to your eyebrows”. Get a pair of tweezers and pluck those hairs out.

Second, mind the length of your eyebrow hair. I have to tell you that it’s pretty amazing when you ask your barber to trim your eyebrows. You end up looking a lot younger. As a matter of fact, the barber I’ll see when I’m in NYC calls the guard he puts on the clippers for eyebrow maintenance the “fountain of youth guard”.

Trim nose hair.

One of the more distracting (and disgusting) things guys often overlook. Get a small pair of scissors or an inexpensive electric trimmer and just take care of it. Don’t be that guy. Seriously.

Monitor your ear hair.

As we get older, hair starts to grow on places that it didn’t before, like your ears. Different men experience this to differing degrees of severity. In any case, make sure to trim it up or pluck it out with a pair of tweezers.

Keep your fingernails trimmed and clean.

We have it on good authority that women tend to look at a man’s hands when they meet them. Keep you fingernails trimmed and make sure that there’s no dirt underneath them, especially if you’re headed out on a date.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post Personal Grooming Habits You Shouldn’t Overlook first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice


How To Feel Like a Boss (Even If You’re Not One)

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from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

…and look like you run things

It is an undeniable fact that dressing well can make you feel good about yourself. Why is that so?

First, there’s the postivie mental payoff you get after putting some thought, time and effort into something – in this case yourself. Carefully planning out and selecting an outfit that hits all the right notes and just plain “works” is extremely satisfying.

Next, there’s the transformative element of style. The clothes you choose to wear tell a story about you. They broadcast who you are, what you think of yourself, what group you belong to, what group you’d like to belong to or who you’d like to be.

When you’re talking about feeling powerful or like you’re in charge, nothing fits that bill more than a classic navy pinstripe suit.

navy pinstripe suit style 2016

navy pinstripe suit style 2016

| WEARING | Knot Standard suit, Edward Sexton shirt, Attache case c/o Maxwell Scott, Tie Bar tie, Rolex watch, Paul Evans shoes | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

Pinstripes always conjure images of executives and bankers – men who generally have more power (and money) than they know what to do with. A pinstripe suit is such a “boss” look because it is a bold and assertive pattern. It takes some huevos to wear a pattern like that head to toe. Luckily, you don’t need to be Gordon Gekko to wear a pinstripe suit.

Though there’s always the possibility of playing down the “bossiness” of a pinstripe suit, I always prefer to play it up with strong accompaniments.

And it doesn’t get much stronger than a contrast collar bengal stripe shirt with a collar bar. And nothing is a more natural fit around the neck than a bold red power tie.

navy pinstripe suit style 2016

Make sure your accessories and footwear project power as well. An attache in place of a briefcase and a strong oxblood wholecut oxford shoe.

navy pinstripe suit style 2016

Thanks, as always, for reading. Have a great weekend.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post How To Feel Like a Boss (Even If You’re Not One) first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A Touch Of Refinement: The Indoor Scarf

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from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Meet your new favorite winter accessory

It’s important to remember that scarves serve two purposes. Practically, they’re meant to keep you warm. But they’ve also got a completely aesthetic dimension to them as well, completely independent of their utility.

And the ultimate expression of the aesthetic is the indoor scarf.

wear scarf indoors blazer men

wear scarf indoors blazer men

| WEARING | QG Custom blazer, Uniqlo cardigan, Brooks Brothers Black Fleece shirt, Banana Republic pants, Drake’s scarf and pocket square, A. Lange & Söhne watch, Carmina loafers | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo

What is an indoor scarf? It’s a classification of neckwear I’m not sure existed prior to David Coggin’s recent capsule collection with Drake’s, which is, sadly, mostly sold out. When I ran into David at a book signing at the Drake’s pop-up in Soho he told me he wanted to create a scarf that was about half the length (or less) of a regular scarf so it could be easily worn under a blazer. And so, the indoor scarf was born.

The effect is brilliant. Less formal than a neck tie and not as “buttoned up” as an ascot (though it can certainly double as one), the indoor scarf is the epitome of style, class and refinement. It’s the thing you always wish you had when you’ve thought, “man, there’s just something missing from this outfit”.

While it’s a natural fit under a blazer with an OCBD and a cardigan, it really shines as a contrasting layer between a blazer and turtleneck. A great holiday part combination.

wear scarf indoors blazer men

wear scarf indoors blazer men

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Brian Sacawa
He Spoke Style

The post A Touch Of Refinement: The Indoor Scarf first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

5 Bottles Worth The Splurge For the Holidays

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from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

We pick the best scotch and bourbon worth the price tag for the holidays

Its holiday season and if you are like us, you’re going to stock your liquor cabinet with “the good stuff”. Nothing is better than sitting around the Christmas tree with loved ones, making new memories and sipping on the best whiskey the world has to offer. So here are five suggestions on whiskies worth the splurge to help you make the holidays as memorable as possible.

best scotch whisky holiday splurge

1. Johnnie Walker Blue Label, $199.99
Call it cliché, but Johnnie Blue embodies refinement in a blended Scotch. Its flavors recall everything fine in life. Smooth as silk and a finish with subtle nuances that caress the palate and leave you inquisitive as to their descriptors. Nothing says you want to make a memory more than opening a bottle of this.

2. Yamazaki 18yr, $299.99
I would have liked to have listed the sherry cask finished offering from Yamazaki, but since Jim Murray named it Whiskey of the Year the price has skyrocketed and availability plummeted. You will have to “settle” for this available version of the 18yr. Read any review and you will find various detailed tasting descriptions that include every rare delectable fruit known to man.

best scotch whisky holiday splurge

3. Blanton’s Gold Edition, $150 (after shipping)
After shipping? Thats right. If you want to taste this bourbon you will have to pay an extra chunk of cash to have it shipped from across the pond because its unavailable in the US market. Thanks to my equally whiskey-crazed neighbor, I was able to get a taste and, let me tell you, you will be scratching your head wondering how they crafted a spirit so balanced and intricate. Every flavor you want in a bourbon working in perfect harmony. One of my all-time favorites.

4. Laphroaig Cairdeas, $79.99
Cairdeas is gaelic for “friendship” and what better way to initiate and special occasion with this amontillado sherry cask-finished peated scotch. Never had peated scotch? There are some strong opinions on Islay Scotch (peated) that we will talk about in the future, but this is an exceptional choice in the category. The sherry balances exceptionally well with the peat for a truly unique experience. You will either love it or hate it, but you sure as hell will remember it.

5. The Macallan Rare Cask, $299.99
So many spirits aged in sherry casks can get a musty taste or become overly sweet, but this one is perfect. Less than one percent of Macallan’s casks get to be named Rare Cask. Light, sweet, and complex. Some notes of spice mid-palate and fruit and nuts on the finish. Enjoy this with some oysters for a truly rare and memorable experience. Read our review here.

Thanks for reading. Cheers!

Stylishly Yours,

Chris Sarangoulis
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo.

The post 5 Bottles Worth The Splurge For the Holidays first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Style Defined: Velvet Slippers

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from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

A brief historical primer on one of the most stylish and refined types of footwear

One of the coolest results of the recent renaissance in menswear has been the shift of formal dressing from a chore to an opportunity. An opportunity to show off your best stuff, to exhibit your personal style and to really step up your game and have some fun! Though perhaps one of the best examples of this idea in practice is the velvet slipper.

In the most general of senses, velvet slippers has been around forever – pretty much as long as footwear and velvet have both existed. Most famously, the Pope has traditionally worn nothing on his feet but velvet slippers – his are a signature red velvet and, of course, extremely exclusive.

But when it comes to being worn by the general public – or at least the more sartorially-minded of the general public – the history of the velvet slipper begins a bit more recently.

velvet slippers men history

Velvet slippers first became a prominent style for the fashionable man the way that so many menswear pieces rise in popularity – by celebrity endorsement. In this case from Prince Albert, Prince Consort of the UK in the late-1800s.

Slippers were already a functional necessity as a more refined and comfortable indoor replacement for outdoor shoes. When roads were still gravel, tracking stones and dirt in from outside could do a number on a nice floor, so indoor slippers were widely used. Prince Albert took the simple design and added a new level of formality by introducing velvet uppers and luxe quilted linings.

velvet slippers men history

Later, in the mid-1900s Hollywood elites picked up the practice as well, once again lending celebrity influence and encouraging the general public to do the same. These same celebs, like Clark Gable, also took to wearing velvet slippers outside of the home, notably as a black-tie appropriate footwear, where they replaced formal patent leather loafers.

Brands like Stubbs and Wootton and Del Toro Shoes have made velvet slippers their trademark offering, with both bespoke and ready-to-wear lines, but the style is now popular enough to be found in more all-purpose stores like Brooks Brothers, J.Crew and even H&M on occasion.

velvet slippers men history

Now, the inherent flair of velvet footwear in general accounts for a lot of the panache of a velvet slipper, but the common practice of decorative embroidery is where things really get fun. While plain, unembellished slippers are far from uncommon, it’s become more and more popular to adorn the toe or vamp of a slipper.

Traditionally this embroidery depicted a family crest or coat of arms, but over time as these symbols have become a bit of a rarity, men have found other images to take their place. Inf fact, you can now find pretty much anything embroidered on a velvet slipper, from initials (a safe choice), to irreverent messages and graphics (a daring ‘F-You’ style move), to emojis (which we tend to caution against highly) and everything in between.

velvet slippers men history

These days, velvet slippers are still most commonly worn in formal settings, but like so many pieces of men’s formalwear, a window has opened to incorporate the slipper into anything but the most casual of settings. Heck, I’ve seen stylish dudes rock a velvet slipper with a pair of dark jeans and a blazer, and look darn good doing it. It just takes confidence and commitment!

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style

Photography by Rob McIver Photo

The post Style Defined: Velvet Slippers first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

30 Rights & Wrongs of Being a Gentleman

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from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Plus the rest of what you’ve come to expect on Mondays

Brian and Rob had a really hard day yesterday shooting this car. Stay tuned for the full story!

You can now say “eat me” and mean it.

B.J. Novak knows what a good investment can do to a regularly “simple” wardrobe.

Amazon wants you to be able to shop in person the way you shop online. These seems a little too good to be true.

Larry David talks about Seinfeld and Curb Your Enthusiasm.

Here are 30 rights and wrongs of being a true gentleman, according to The Gentleman’s Journal.

Even if a trend “comes back”, tread lightly to avoid looking outdated (or like you’re in a boy band, unless that’s the look you’re going for).

You know we love talking about the history of how things became what they are, so why not learn a bit more about socks.

Since it’s officially winter on the East Coast and it’s the holiday season, what better time to focus on some boozy links:

We may not be able to visit the world’s greatest cocktail bars, but we can easily indulge in their recipes.

If you’re looking to get your whiskey drinker a gift this season, start here.

And if you are a whiskey drinker yourself, here’s a robust list of winter cocktails.

Thanks for reading.

Stylishly Yours,

Robin West
He Spoke Style

The post 30 Rights & Wrongs of Being a Gentleman first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

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